Torque Wrench

[Fawteen]

I'm in the market for a decent, reasonably accurate click-type torque wrench for when I'm ready to reassemble the engine for my motorcycle.

IIRC, torque wrenches tend to be most accurate at the middle of their range. I won't need to go much above 35 lbs/ft. which is the figure for the cylinder head.

Recommendations?

 

[gmccool]

Snap On

 

[old]

I learned years ago to never relied in a clicker type. I only use the sweep type and glad I felt something was wrong when I had my last clicker type and checked it with a sweep one and found it to be off by 50ft/lbs so never again

 

[Dr. Walt]

Snap-On, Proto, MAC or any of the other TOP QUALITY tool companies; and make sure that they calibrate it BEFORE you purchase it.

:>)

 

[Fawteen]

Can I use you for a reference on the loan application? "8^)

 

[504]

Beam type from the pawn shop, $10.00 Never gets out of calibration. I own a Snap/On dial and a Matco click type. The cheap Craftsman is better than either one of the others.

 

[gab]

Got a Snap On, Craftsman and Utica, only troublesome one was the dept. store junk.

 

[Traper]

One thing will kill a clack torque wrench is not returning it 0 pounds when finish with it. traper

 

[Dr. Walt]

Just do like UNCLE SAM does . . .DEFICIT SPENDING !


:>(

 

[markiz41]

Pricey, but if you can - Precision Instruments "split beam" type in 3/8 drive. Very nice. Other than that, any reputable brand like CDI or Sturtevant Richmont will do.

 

[Jim Naden]

(quoted from post at 15:50:07 01/01/15) Pricey, but if you can - [b:bee6fed62a]Precision Instruments "split beam" type[/b:bee6fed62a] in 3/8 drive. Very nice. Other than that, any reputable brand like CDI or Sturtevant Richmont will do.

Very good torque wrench for getting bolts to the same torque. Don't have to worry about returning to zero after use. Very durable will withstand a lot of banging around and the inevitable inadvertent mistreatment.

Snap On has Precision Instrument wrenches available with finer tooth ratchets if that is a personal necessity.[/i]

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Mark's suggestion of the Precision Instruments split beam in 3/8 drive is spot on. It is a 20 to 100 lb/ft tool. No springs to get weak and has a 11° flex head ratchet.

Tooltopia has good prices on them, just over $100.

If you want cheap, get a regular old beam type torque wrench. They never go out of calibration if not abused or over torqued. I have about 20 or so torque wrenches, from an 80 in/oz max beam type, up to a 1100 lb/ft clicker.

Charles

 

[Dick L]

I bought a nice click torque wrench years ago. It is a pain in the neck to get out and use. It was a waste of money for me. I have two old torque bar wrenches that get used and the clicker is in its original box and I have no intention of ever removing it from the box to use. But but it was so purty and impressive looking I just have to have it to show visitors that I have one if it comes up. A tec guy from a machine company came in to replace a screw tip that didn't last and torqued the barrel head with one of those purty things. I was so impressed with the click that I just had to have one.

 

[DelMN]

Got 3 of them from Harbor Freight. 9.99 each with coupon. Click style. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. Accurate with my snapon sweep style!

 

[Dusty MI]

I got one from Harbor Freight and check it with a friends beam one. It was right on. But after using it later I backed it off too far and now it will not click. I bought another one and watch closer when backing off.

 

[Dick2]

Not all torque wrenchs are created equal.

 

[hd6gtom]

beam type torque wrenches get weak where they flex and do NOT give an correct reading after they are used a lot. experience is speaking here. If you are going to use it daily, a Mac or Snap on is the only kind to buy. For what you are going to do one from NAPA or some such store will work good.

 

[Fawteen]

After a bit of research and consulting various folks whose opinions I have reason to respect, I went with a CDI unit from Amazon for around $125.

I've little doubt that I could have spent half of that or less and gotten by just fine for a one time use, but I have this thing about buying quality. I just can't bring myself to believe that a $25 Harbor Freight unit is going to be in the same class of quality as a $125 name-brand tool.

Probably my wife will make out better at the auction the afternoon of my funeral too..."8^)

 

[T in NE]

CDI is a Snap-on brand.
If you would be using it a lot, I'd recommend Snap-on's electronic 3/8 drive one. I've used one, and if I had need for one it'd be at the top of my list. Also available with a blue grip and CDI livery.

 

[jniolon]

this thread brings up a question... when comparing beam to click type... how do you know which is right unless one has been calibrated before the test ?? It's like a guy with two watches...he never really knows what time it is !

thanks for the tip on setting back to zero..I've neve heard that (probably in the tiny instruction manual) I got Proto clicker in 3/8 and 1/2. Never thought of not trusting them.

john

 

[jimg.allentown]

An error like 50 ft/lbs is a more than an error or inaccuracy. It is a broken tool. Inaccuracy might be off by 10 or 15 per cent, but any more would indicate a major failure.

 

[jimg.allentown]

The debate goes on about which type of torque wrench is better.
BOTH are GOOD.

In a situation where there is plenty of room, and it is easy to read the markings, the old "swaybar" wrenches are fine and accurate.

In tight spots where it is difficult to read markings, the click type wins. Gives a physical indication when preset torque value is reached. A definite advantage in that situation.

Keep in mind the REAL purpose of a torque wrench is TWO-FOLD. First, to assure PROPER tension on the fastener. Second to insure CONSISTENCY of tension. Evenly tightened head bolts will perform better than if they were not evenly tightened.

 

[old]

Ya one would think so and it was a new tool right out of the box. I learned many are never calibrated so bad from the get go

 

[Hobo,NC]

All mechanical torque wrenches are calibrated from 20% to 100% of full scale, therefore, they should never be used below or above those limits

To determine which torque wrench capacity is best suited for an application, many factors must be considered. However, as a recommendation, use a torque wrench in the middle 50% of the overall capacity of the tool. This will result in longer tool life, ease of use for the operator and increased accuracy from "clicker" type torque wrenches

Always grasp handle firmly in the center of the grip

Approach final torque slowly and evenly

Stop pulling wrench immediately when target torque is reached

Never use a torque wrench to break fasteners loose

Should be cleaned and stored properly

Should always be stored at it’s lowest torque setting

Wrenches should be re-calibrated if dropped. Should never be used in excess of it’s capacity

Torque wrenches should be "exercised" a minimum of three times at 100% of full scale before use

The wrench selected should be calibrated in the same torque units that are specified

Use of a "cheater bar" will result in an inaccurate reading and can possibly damage the wrench

Torque wrenches will last longer if reasonable care is taken. Always unwind handle to the lowest setting after each use. Do not attempt to lubricate the internal torque mechanism. Clean torque wrench by wiping, do not immerse. The wrench should be sent to a qualified calibration lab once every year or every 5000 cycles for re-calibration

Link
http://www.cditorque.com/education.html#What

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench

I have never used a split beam so have no useful info...
I started out with a beam then graduated to a clicker..
It takes more than one to cover different ranges...
If I were gonna use in on a scooter I would have to have a in lb and a ft lb wrench...
12 in lb is 1 ft lb :wink: 35 ft lbs is 420 in lb...
35 in lbs is getting hign on the in lb scale
I would be looking at a 10 to 100 ft lb and a flex head at that...
PI and CDI are great choices... PI did make snap-on and I think Snap-on own's CDI...
A CDI with a snap-on head and stamp is double the price...It involves More folks in the food chain to feed and they all like to eat well...
My experience
Up to 100 in lb I prefer a beam so I can feel it...
From there I use a clicker... I still have my first Craftsman Beam it would be rare I would use it but it had got allot of use early on in my career...
I have a few clickers that I have worn out they make a nice long handle ratchet.. Out of all that I have I prefer a SK I spec they just feel good in my hand... They come out of there box do there job get reset and put back in the box immediately...
My Snap-on rep has a Torque wrench calibration checker on the truck

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Just to clarify, the PI split beam is a type of clicker, but a very different mechanism. They are absolutely trouble free and unless abused, wont get out of calibration. No springs inside to get weak either, and thus, no worry about returning the setting to the lowest.

 

[george md]

Utica wrenches are 15 pounds light right out of
the box, I have 2 and checked more off the tool
truck.
Buy a beam wrench ,they are always accurate. I
have torque wrenches from 1/4 to 1 1/2,the
inch and a half is dial reading , basically a
beam turning a dial.

george