Torque wrench

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
I found this torque wrench at Menards.
I prefer
cvphoto112768.jpg

the old school torque wrenches.
 
i still have one like that in tool chest,still have alot of same tools since high school days,plus alot more now also
 
Those work fine for most applications.

The advantage of the clicker is it is easier to operate in difficult areas, you don't have to be able to see it, or need a steady hand.

Clickers also work better for production assembly. Doesn't require any feel or skill to operate it.
 
Good idea. I have a clicker and don't trust it.
Need to weld 2 half inch sockets together.
Do you have a better way to compare old school
torque to a clicker?
 
I have one exactly like that one, but with a different name. I have heard that they are more accurate than clickers. I also have a smaller one for inch pounds. On mine, it has been used so much that the needle reads
5 pounds. I just add 5 pounds to the torque that I need.
 
That's like the one we had back in high school. About 1988 the teacher was showing us how to use it. He twisted the head right off a B&S head bolt!
 
I have several dial types 3/8 and 1/2 drive. Will have to check out my clickers to compare so called accuracy. Think Ill trust the clickers till proven otherwise.
 
I have a Craftsman, and a SK like that,a Matco clicker,and a Snap On dial. The bar type is the first thing I grab,no question they are the most accurate.
 
My click style torque wrench quit clicking, period. Took it all apart, cleaned it up. Light coat of lube on moving part and recalibrated it. I used a digital pull scale at the l foot point from center of drive and checked it at 10 -20- and thirty ft lbs of pull on scale . I think it is pretty accurate now but but don't really need it for anything anymore.
 
I do too because you know where you are and how far you have to go rather than wait and wait and wait....is it working, have I passed the point of no return, is the bolt shank going to break on and on.........
 
So did mine. I googled the repair. Take apart, clean, and grease it. Works like new.
 
I don't have coupling nuts. I'll take a pair of large nuts and weld them together. Thanks for the idea. I never trusted clicker torque wrenches. I do have the old school torque wrench.
 
occasionally they may need a minor adjustment. i keep records of the calibrations as i own a shop.
 
Snap-on has a clicker called Brutus. My Snap-on rep said no trade school has broken this one. Challenge accepted. We haven't broken it yet. I like the newer electric torque wrenches that do torque in foot lbs., inch lbs. Nm etc. After the torque, you can switch to an angle setting and it keeps track of how much you ratchet it if in a tight spot.
 
I have a drawer full of Snap On torque wrenches, most are click type. I do have a couple of dial type to set rolling torque and do super sensitive work like screws on guns. We have a calibration tool at the shop, and our mechanics check them every 90 days. I cant ever remember my click type needing adjustment. Proper use is important, your hand needs to be centered on the handle and the motion needs to be in a smooth arc. It sounds over the top to say this, but you can easily see the difference on the calibration tool when checking them.
 
question for those with a click type. do you store your wrench with the setting backed off to zero? mine are stored this way, also they are in the original case.
 
My old Williams has a clicker you can see. It falls off the beam when it deflects. You slide the clicker down the tapered ledge to set the torque.
 
(quoted from post at 10:25:12 01/03/22) question for those with a click type. do you store your wrench with the setting backed off to zero? mine are stored this way, also they are in the original case.

Always back them off after use. Not doing so will result in weakening the spring and false torque settings.
 
I have a 1/2 Craftsman Digitork 1/2 think it goes up to 150#/ft. SON has several sizes of Snap-On digital and click stop torque wrenches. He's Quality Manager at his company, the torque wrench calibrater guy works for him. I always heard you shouldn't loosen things with click stops, quickest way to knock them out of calibration.
I also have a Craftsman 3/8 bending beam torque wrench. It's great for small engine work. I would NOT assume it is accurate, you all know what assume means correct? The bending beam wrenches aren't adjustable but I would make sure they are accurate.
 
As a point of general interest, take a look at the Precision Instruments (that's the company name) line of torque wrenches. They have a reputation of extraordinary reliability -- especially the spli-beam model), and while their name is not as widely known as several other makers, their wrenches will look very familiar to many mechanics.
 
Here are my torque wrenches, George.

A Thorsen 1/2 inch drive 100 ft-lb beam-type wrench, 1960s vintage.

Snap-On 1/2 inch drive 150 ft-lb dial wrench, 1960s.

Snap-On 3/8 inch drive 150 in-lb dial wrench, 1960s.

Snap-On 1/4 inch drive 10 N-m dial wrench made in the 21st century.

The first three belonged to my dad. The last one I picked up at an estate sale for ten bucks. I imagine its former owner turned over in his grave, knowing that wrench retails for over $200.

cvphoto112886.jpg
 
glennster,

You should unload it to a few pounds torque.
I also reverse it and click it the other way.

NEVER use as a ratchet wrench!
Yearly check up is a must!

Guido.
 

The two middle ones work like a beam with a dial... I have a couple OTC ones that go to 600lbs one broke the dial quit I took it apart its a simple set up...

I have a couple Mac digital I hate them they are to time consuming to set up... For small stuff I like them for big stuff give me the clickers...

My advice NEVER BUY A USED ONE...
 
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