Torque wrench

[Warren656]

I'm in the market for a new torque wrench.My old one was a Craftsman from the 70"s
Whats a good one to get thats going to last?

 

[moresmoke]

CDI is my preferred brand if I am going to spend the money on a good one. Commercial version of Snap On.

 

[Ol 54']

There are a few good ones out there, I have a 1/2 " Proto I bought back in the early 70's still works fine, always remember once you are done with any torque wrench to set it back to its lowest setting.

 

[DanielW]

Whatever brand you get, spend the extra and go with a split-beam style. Much better than the twist-handle/internal-spring style if you want decades of service and repeatable, accurate results.

 

[olddavid]

Whatever brand you get, spend the extra and go with a split-beam style. Much better than the twist-handle/internal-spring style if you want decades of service and repeatable, accurate results.

The old beam types are pretty durable and not much to go wrong. The downside is that some places it's difficult to get where you can read the scale.

 

[DanielW]

The old beam types are pretty durable and not much to go wrong. The downside is that some places it's difficult to get where you can read the scale.

True, but I was referring to a 'split' beam type - not the old swinging rod/beam type that you're thinking of. With the split beam type, you still set the torque with a knob and it still 'clicks' when the correct torque is achieved just like the twist-handle ones do. But instead of an internal spring like the twist handles have, it uses different internal mechanism/design that doesn't rely on spring repeatability. The twist-handle ones have a heavy internal die spring and need to always be backed off to zero as mentioned above, but even then the spring is always slightly preloaded and the calibration will usually be out after years of use. I had the local Snap-On rep take my grandfather's old Snap-On split beam one in for calibration checking a few years ago. It must have been nearly three decades old and had seen a boat-load of use, but calibration was still bang-on. See circled note in pic below.

 

[Eman85]

A lot has to do with what you are going to use it on. Plenty of torque wrench tests on Youtube, most times more money doesn't equal a better wrench.

 

[Mule Meat]

I second the Snap On beam torque wrench.

Two things about them tho.
1. They do not have a "reverse". They tighten only..
2. When you are done using it. Release the locking tab before you put it away. It releases the tension on the spring that could stretch over time if left locked.

If you check places like eBay you can find good used ones for half the cost of new. Snap On has a place here in Beckley WV that rebuilds and calibrates them for $125..

 

[chvet73]

I third the SnapOn. I was able to get a 1/2 and 3/8 for a total investment of $150. The 3/8 slipped. SnapOn sent a free rebuild kit even though I bought it used. Took some searching but they are worth it. I’ll add they are the only SnapOn tools I own.

 

[NDIHC]

I have a few different torque wrenches. The one I use most is my SnapOn electronic 1/2 inch drive. I use that one because most of what I do includes torque to yield bolts. I can do the initial torque, push a button and then do the angle torque without screwing around with those stupid torque angle gauges. I also have Snap On Torq-O-Meter in half and 3/8 drive, ft lb and in lb. They have their place. The in lb is mostly used for measuring bearing preload. Then I have a Mac half inch click type that I use for things like torquing lug nuts and such. Oh, also a Husky 3/8 drive lower torque click type. The Snap On truck has a torque wrench tester that I check my wrenches with every so often. They've all been pretty much spot on when I test them.

 

[Sprint 6]

I have a Snap-On split beam for tire use at the shop. For general repairs, I have electronic Snap-On TechAngle series in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4. The 3/4 was steep, but makes life way easier, as I do a lot of Duramax diesel repairs, and GM LT series cam replacements.

I've got a few older twist type click torque wrenches, too. A Snap-On inch pound that has a 1/4 size head with a 3/8 anvil, used it alot for transmission rebuilds. I also have a Matco 3/8 twist type, and a Penncraft twist type made in 1974. The Penncraft always honked off my Snap-On reps trying to get me to trade when I was young and no money. That old Penncraft always performed in the range of accuracy when I would put it on the in truck tester.

 

[Stephen Newell]

I'm in the market for a new torque wrench.My old one was a Craftsman from the 70"s
Whats a good one to get thats going to last?

Perhaps the old Craftsman is still good. I was doing an engine overhaul and I had a wrench from the seventies and to be sure I bought a new one. While I was at it I checked the old one against the new one and they were both the same.

 

[PJH]

I'm in the market for a new torque wrench.My old one was a Craftsman from the 70"s
Whats a good one to get thats going to last?

So - what is wrong with your old 70's era torque wrench? I have a 70's era Craftsman beam type foot pound torque wrench, and a 70's era Craftsman inch pound torque wrench. They both have outlived several "clicker" style torque wrenches.

 

[Texasmark]

I'm in the market for a new torque wrench.My old one was a Craftsman from the 70"s
Whats a good one to get thats going to last?

On a torque wrench purchase, I am old school, manual watch the needle move, guy. Reason is that I have both kinds but never use the snap type one because until it snaps, I don't know if its going to, and if it does, does it do it at the right torque. With the old needle type, the proof is in the pudding.....you can see where you are with your pressure and see where you need to be.

 

[Warren656]

So - what is wrong with your old 70's era torque wrench? I have a 70's era Craftsman beam type foot pound torque wrench, and a 70's era Craftsman inch pound torque wrench. They both have outlived several "clicker" style torque wrenches.

I accidentally knocked it off the bench and it broke

 

[Texasmark]

I accidentally knocked it off the bench and it broke

OUCH!!!!!

 

[Butch(OH)]

I've always worked under the impression that if something is critical enough to require a torque wrench that it should be more accurate than my elbow. The cheapo clickers are notoriously inaccurate especially when not being used in the middle of their range. If you want to spend $25 buy a beam type. The better quality clickers will be accurate enough for most uses IF, big if,, they are are kept in calibration(often!) and not abused. I've used a Snap On Torqometer for 55 years and every time I have sent it in its still spot on. Not cheap of course but neither are incorrectly torqued fasteners in critical applications

 

[Fixingfarmer]

So I have had alot of snap on ratchets and torque wrenches in the last 20 years love the 1/2 inch split beam style. They do not do reverse like said above so if you have a corn planter with LH threaded bolts you have to also grab a cheap one that does that. As well

I’ve never had any issues with all 4 of my half and 3/8 snap ons.

I HAVE HAD ISSUES WITH A 3/4 inch big snap on at work. Same style super expensive. It is the only one that style I would catch moving we would torque 3 wheels on the ro gator and sometime on that third one by the 4th tire it was 50 lbs ft low. The only one of that style I’ve ever seen drift. I sent it in. It came back same thing. We ended up switching to one of those electric torque extensions and using it just on a big snap on ratchet torque extension from harbor freight was 60 dollars. Or about one 20th what that wrench cost I’m glad it was a company purchase.

 

[John Deere D]

I'm in the market for a new torque wrench.My old one was a Craftsman from the 70"s
Whats a good one to get thats going to last?

I'm a retired relief Chief from the Natural Gas Industry.
We were responsible for a fleet of Aviation type gas generators (J-79's)(Rolls Royce Spey) (LM 2500) (501 K Allison) (Solar Saturn)as well as internal combustion Engines (200HP > 10,000).
The below information is much better than I could ever explain. We used Dial Indicator Torque Wrenches on all of the GAS Turbines.
Dial indicted torque verses a click type torque?

Dial torque wrenches offer superior accuracy and real-time monitoring
, making them ideal for critical, high-precision applications like aerospace or engine building. Click-type torque wrenches are more common, durable, and user-friendly for general maintenance, providing an audible, tactile signal when the target torque is reached.
Dial Torque Wrenches

• Precision: Considered the most accurate type, often used for critical, high-precision, and audit applications.
• Feedback: Provides a visual, real-time reading of the torque as it is applied, allowing the user to monitor torque build-up.
• Use Case: Ideal for quality control, inspections, and applications requiring precise, documented torque.
• Pros/Cons: Highly accurate, but can be difficult to read in tight, dark spaces.

Click-Type Torque Wrenches

• Feedback: Produces an audible "click" and a slight drop in the handle when the target torque is achieved.
• Usability: User-friendly, making them ideal for everyday automotive work, such as tightening lug nuts.
• Durability: generally more robust and better suited for heavy use in industrial environments.
• Pros/Cons: Affordable and easy to use, but can lose calibration if not stored properly (must be backed down to zero).

Key Differences

• Accuracy: Dial wrenches are generally more accurate (often 1-2% accuracy) than click wrenches (often 4-6% accuracy).
• Application: Click wrenches are best for rapid, repetitive tasks, while dial wrenches are better for final, critical, or audit-level fastening.
• Handling: Click-type tools should be backed off to their lowest setting to maintain calibration, whereas dial-type tools do not require this, as they don't use a spring-loaded mechanism in the same way.
• Price: Click-type wrenches are generally less expensive.

 

[Texasmark]

I've always worked under the impression that if something is critical enough to require a torque wrench that it should be more accurate than my elbow. The cheapo clickers are notoriously inaccurate especially when not being used in the middle of their range. If you want to spend $25 buy a beam type. The better quality clickers will be accurate enough for most uses IF, big if,, they are are kept in calibration(often!) and not abused. I've used a Snap On Torqometer for 55 years and every time I have sent it in its still spot on. Not cheap of course but neither are incorrectly torqued fasteners in critical applications

There's the caveat: "Keep them calibrated." Gonna betcha nobody working this forum has ever had a TW calibrated. At work we had a critical schedule of as often as 30 days on some instruments that what it says is accurate!