Torque wrench

[JOB]

What is the better torque wrench, the clicker or the one with the dial. Not the dial one that bends the wrench and the dial stays still. One advantage that I can see in the clicker is when you tighten a bolt that is not facing you, there you can not read the dial. Any thoughts or opinons.

 

[glennster]

i have a couple of the click type and one beam type torque wrench. i like the click type for general engine work, the beam type and dial type are good for crush washers on pinion gears where you need the steady tension. big thing with a torque wrench is keep it in calibration. on the click type, i always back off the torque setting to zero and leave the wrench unlocked when not in use. the dial types are the most spendy, but real good if you can budget one.

 

[JDemaris]

I like to have both. The "clicker" is much more conenient in tight places, but you need a way to verify its accuracy once in awhile, and they do go out of wack. When you have both, you can compare readings once in awhile.

 

[PJH]

Like the others say - depends on the job. When I worked in construction, I used torque wrenches to check the torque on bridge beam splice assemblies. Torque on some bolts was 600 ft lbs - wrench had a 4 ft handle - required 150 lbs of pull with your legs locked around whatever was available. I wasn't contortionist enough to pull the handle and still be able to peep over at a dial.

I loved the clickers!

Paul

 

[old]

The big problem with either type is that you have to keep them calibrated or you can end up with big big problems where as the beam type do not need to be calibrated. The clicker type if the up keep is done is by far the batter of the 2 because all you have to do is hear it click so even a blind man can use one or as in a lot of jobs you are almost as good as blind since you can not see the dial

 

[ArkanDan]

Was reading Popular Mechanics this morning and ran across this little gem "Powerbuilt Digital Torque Converter Adapter & Calibrator". Was wondering if anyone has had any experiences with it. Don't have a clue as to where it is made for those of you interested in in that. Click the link for more info.
Torque Adapter Calibrator

 

[Welding man]

They are both old technology, my latest one has digital readout,can be programmed for ft.lbs,in lbs,newton meters and degrees.It beeps when the torque is reached and also viberates.Not cheap though.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The dial type is essentially nothing more than a beam type with the mechanism encased in a housing and connected to a dial. I am told my the guy who calibrates our torque wrenches at work (hundreds of all different kinds) that so long as you don't exceed the limits of a dial type, it will never give you any problems or get out of calibration limits, which is also true for a beam type.

Best "clicker" is a split beam made by Precision Instruments. Also sold by Snap-On. It is a variation on the beam type, but clicks. Again, not much to go wrong or bad, no springs like a regular clicker.

Charles

 

[Slowpoke]

I use a beam type wrench to calibrate a clicker by placing an 8 point socket between the heads. Then with the clicker set to 100 lbs and the beam facing up, I squeeze the handles together till the clicker sounds off. It should click at the instant the beam wrench reads 100 lbs.

 

[JOB]

Thanks for the education, I learned something from all of you guys. It was all good stuff.

 

[IH2444]

The main thing about the clickers is to unload the torque adjustment after use. Leaving it cranked up will for sure result in them being out of calibration.

 

[Davy Fireball]

you are right you should release the pressure on the springs in the click type. i bought a cheap torque wrench (click type)and it went to heck- i took care of it -but it still went south. i welded the handle and now use it for a breaker bar. makes for a good heavy rachet wrench. the reason i welded the handle- you cant pick it up by mistake to use it as a torque wrench