Towable Ingersoll Rand 185 compressor dies after start

[woopdedo]

Good evening guys n gals.
I have a blasting business that uses a Dustless blasting unit and a Tow behind Ingersoll rand 185 that I purchased used.
It's been serving me well for almost 10yrs but have a problem that happens every few years. When i turn the key to run, then start she fires right up, but then when you let go the key goes to run and it dies.
The first time it happened I replaced what looks like the main relay to a NAPA one, and that seemed to fix it and about 5yrs later the same thing is happening again. Pulled the relay and brought it to NAPA. NO numbers or markings on it. They went back in my purchase history for my account and said it was superseded by another one (that they didn't have for some reason having to do with this Coved crap..) well, found another one with the same plug ends and ...nothing.. Same crap.
The diagnostic lights show "High compressor temp" ??? it hasn't even run for more than 10sec. How can it be overheating already?

I HATE wiring and although there isn't much in respect of a harness, they seem to paint EVERYTHING that grayish-tan color and it's kinda hard to scrap off the paint to see the colors of the wiring, let alone 20yr old mesh loom. It's gotta be something simple, because it would fire right up and run great.

I've spent hours and hours googling the past week to find pretty much nothing.. Well, that they sold out the tow behind compressors to Doosan a while ago.
Usually one can find EVERYTHING on Youtube, but even doing a fluid change/re-fresh came up with nothing. I've downloaded PDF files that are supposed to be 'user manual' but are pretty vague on their description of parts. AND NOT A DAMN THING on a troubleshooting flow chart of ANY KIND!
There is a 2-prong plug at the front bottom of the compressor, but jumping that or unplugging it made no difference. Other than that sensor, I don't see any other that would give a reading on the compressor.
I called Ingersoll rand's place here in the Memphis area, and they gave me to this one equipment servicing business that works on them.
It seemed that they didn't want to divulge any info unless I were to bring it in for $120-150/hr, and I'm sure a minimum time..
Since I was doing a fluid change, I purchased 3gal of the compressor oil/coolant that they recomended and changed that. ..THEN i see under the pass side panel that I/R calls for ATF- Dexron-IV. Do I have to drain out the 2 gal of their fluid and replace with ATF? (don't have the name of it right now.) But it's clear and a lot thicker than ATF. Just don't want to blow up my compressor. Can't afford another one.
I do have a 2.5gal jug of Amsoil universal ATF that I could use. But I just spent $120 on theirs

And lastly.. changed out the big square glass fuel filter, but didn't fill it with fuel. SO, thinking 'maybe' could help. I turned the key, it fired up enough to suck all the fuel in the lines before the filter could fill up. NOW, have to bleed the fuel lines now. I know how to do that, but is there a bleeder screw on the Standadyne pump somewhere? It's a B1 DB2 4972 pump for a 4cyl JD diesel.
And in trying to fill up the fuel system, I was turning the engine over in 5-10sec bursts to run the little lift pump all to have the battery start to die..

As you might tell, I'm getting pretty frustrated over all this, when It was running just FINE a few months ago..

Sorry if It seemed i'm jumping around, It's the ADHD thing, and just be happy we're NOT talking on the phone lol..

In my searching, I've found MANY others that ask pretty much the same thing but don't get an answer or response, and the thread just dies. (like 5-12yrs ago dies!)
SO, if any of you guys that work on/service them can offer up some help, it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
Then on my end, I can log on with my phone and add pictures to help any others that might have the same issues.

Thanks

 

[showcrop]

I would find if it has a fuel shut-off solenoid and chck to see if it loses or gets voltage when the key is released from start. Some shut-off solenoids are power open and some are power closed.

 

[Jim.ME]

I have worked on some portable compressors and believe without the right info you will be lucky to find the problem. I doubt you will find the info you need for free on line. You should purchase the correct service manual with the schematics and diagnostics for it. There are some IR 185 manuals on eBay, you would have to see if they match your model numbers to be correct for your machine. You should be able to get the right manual from IR or Doosan as well.

If the relay and switch are good, there may be a problem with the board itself (I have seen that). Without the right info to check the control system, it is hard to diagnose what the actual problem is and be sure of the repair. Don't buy a board on my statement; without proper diagnosis it is just one of many possibilities.

If you are out of business without it, or having to rent another, paying for the shop to look at it may not be the worst option. They should be able to give you an estimate of cost to check it out. Sorry, but I can see their side of not giving out info, they are in business to get paid for their knowledge.

Without all the information regarding the oil, I wouldn't say either way right or wrong. If they are servicing these all the time they should know, specs and recommendations change. And of course most manufacturers have oils and fluids they sell and say you need to use, but you can use others that meet specs. Did the problem start before or after the oil change?

Doesn't your transfer pump have a little lever on the underside to use to fill the fuel filter and bleed it? Most JDs do. You should only need to crank the engine for bleeding the injector supply lines at the injectors after the filter is full and bled.

 

[Steve@Advance]

Since it is giving high temp in such a quick time, it is reasonable to assume it's a false alarm.

If the sensor is available, and not cost prohibitive, buy a new one, try it. If that doesn't correct it, trace the wiring from the board to the sensor. Try reseating the board connections, check the continuity of the wiring, check for shorts to ground. It's a pain to do all that, but that's what you will be paying the dealer to do, and they won't be as careful with your money, especially if they start throwing parts at it.

As for the oil, leave it in there. It is the right oil, probably a synthetic upgrade from ATF.

 

[circus]

You've run into the manufacturers system to idiot proof their machine. Shuts down at the first sign of trouble. Problem is the system causes most of the problems and parts are impossible to find. I soldered corroded terminals once but usually I just ended up bypassing the system.
Diesels don't prime themselves, air in the sediment bowl is a no no.
Good luck

 

[circus]

What oil did you use? Most screw compressors use a 10W equivalent, give or take, dexron, 32 hyd oil etc.
Can I have your old sediment bowl?

 

[David G]

I am thinking that if you have a high temperature light on, that is probably what is kicking it out. It is probably a bad sensor, might be cheaper to take it in.

 

[woopdedo]

I'm logged in but can't add to my thread?

 

[RBMI]

What is the name of the oil you purchased? If it is ProTech, that is the oil you want. The info plate says
Dexron II not Dexron VI. ProTech was developed after Dexron II was no longer available. ProTech has
better characteristics and less carry out through the separator. Have you ever changed the separator
element? It is inside the tank that you removed the sensor from. I am not sure on a 185, but most of the
time it is recommended every 1000 hrs or once a year. You can go to Doosan Portable Power and
download a manual. It may or may not be free, but they are usually not too expensive. You have a
model P185. The 328 at the end of the serial number is the assembly code. Most operators manuals
from that vintage have the parts and schematics also.

 

[Liquid_wrench]

Sounds like when you let the key spring back to the run position, it's losing power to switch....check wires on ignition switch for loose wires or corrosion. We use to have a bypass button to hold in after it started for a few seconds. Does the unit have glow plugs?

 

[Cuznguido]

The engine itself likely has low oil pressure and high water temp shutdown switches. Try bridging them one at a time to see if that is your
problem.