TPMS battery life

My 2005 Explorer has the factory TPMS setup and they still work. Proof of that was about a week ago the light came on because a tire was low from the cooler temperatures. I’ll be surprised if they make it much longer, but I’m keeping my fingers crossed. I also have a 2009 F150 where the sensors need replacing. Go figure.
I have the new sensors in my possession, just not yet installed.
My 2007 Chrysler Minivan sensors lasted until last year sometime when one finally failed. Replaced all of them. The 2013 Tundra's are still hanging on.

I don't think the country of origin for the sensors has much to do with it as the batteries probably all come from the same one.
 
mark
sensors went out on my 2018 xt5. they were made in mexico 433 hz. The same sensor are used in my 2023 Xt5. Amazon shows a set of 4 preprogrammed 433 Mhz sensors for under $30. ' MY question is If I ordered sensors and put one inside a mower tire and inflated the tire. then remove a tire on the car and put the mower tire next to the car would the car recognize the sensor inside the mower tire? Does think make any sense to you?
This is A way of testing Amazon sensors before installing them on the car rim. opinion?
IS the valve stem hole in the rim a standard size?
Welcome back, George!

It's my understanding that your car's TPMS will only respond to sensors whose serial numbers are programmed into the Body Control Module. Otherwise it would pick up signals from other nearby vehicles. I

I believe the serial numbers in OEM sensors are hard-coded in the sensor and have to be programmed into the BCM with an appropriate scan tool. But most tire shops use universal sensors that can be cloned to look like the original sensors, including duplicate serial numbers.

I don't know what your 'pre-programmed' sensors actually are. If they're OEM sensors, you'll still need to program their S/Ns in you Caddy's BCM. If they're universal, you would need to provide your current S/Ns to the supplier.

Maybe Hobo can clarify this.
 
Not Mark, but I do think the pre-test would be good idea. But, I'm not sure I'd want to inflate a mower tire to that level. Neither the tires or wheels are designed for 35psi. Maybe use some pipe and fittings with the correct hole size drilled in them instead.
when I had a nail the pressure dropped to 29 psi2 an alarm went off. I had to replace a tire, pin hole in the sidewall on star sent me a notice instantly, 0 psi. so I think sensors work at low pressure too. I want to see if Amazon sensors will ; link to my car's computer before installing new sensors.
 
Welcome back, George!

It's my understanding that your car's TPMS will only respond to sensors whose serial numbers are programmed into the Body Control Module. Otherwise it would pick up signals from other nearby vehicles. I

I believe the serial numbers in OEM sensors are hard-coded in the sensor and have to be programmed into the BCM with an appropriate scan tool. But most tire shops use universal sensors that can be cloned to look like the original sensors, including duplicate serial numbers.

I don't know what your 'pre-programmed' sensors actually are. If they're OEM sensors, you'll still need to program their S/Ns in you Caddy's BCM. If they're universal, you would need to provide your current S/Ns to the supplier.

Maybe Hobo can clarify this.
Mark is probably right. My response was based on my Chryslers dumber sensors, no programming required and no position info sent, just 'low pressure'. Driver has to go look.
 
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Welcome back, George!

It's my understanding that your car's TPMS will only respond to sensors whose serial numbers are programmed into the Body Control Module. Otherwise it would pick up signals from other nearby vehicles. I

I believe the serial numbers in OEM sensors are hard-coded in the sensor and have to be programmed into the BCM with an appropriate scan tool. But most tire shops use universal sensors that can be cloned to look like the original sensors, including duplicate serial numbers.

I don't know what your 'pre-programmed' sensors actually are. If they're OEM sensors, you'll still need to program their S/Ns in you Caddy's BCM. If they're universal, you would need to provide your current S/Ns to the supplier.

Maybe Hobo can clarify
Mark I'm struggling to type.
 
Here's a crazy idea. You'll probably all think I'm crazy but here goes. What if you were to invent a rechargeable sensor. Possibly by attaching a charger to the valve stem. Using the outside of and the inside stem as contacts?? What you all say. Please don't send the white coats for me just yet.
 
I replace a ton of them at work mostly Ford's. We wind up having to get them right from Ford, we have tried a couple of aftermarket ones and can never program them.
I have seen charts that tell you the supplier of the oe sensors and the part number/ serial number where you can take that information and get exact replacement without having to use the stealership.
On my 2012 Dodge truck (only vehicle I have ever owned with these stupid sensors) I was able to get exact replacement sensors from rock auto (Schrader is the brand on mine) for $22 ea. They had factory Mopar ones listed just below that for (I think it was) $68 each. EXACTLY the same sensor with a Mopar sticker on the bag...
So there are options
 
Welcome back, George!

It's my understanding that your car's TPMS will only respond to sensors whose serial numbers are programmed into the Body Control Module. Otherwise it would pick up signals from other nearby vehicles. I

I believe the serial numbers in OEM sensors are hard-coded in the sensor and have to be programmed into the BCM with an appropriate scan tool. But most tire shops use universal sensors that can be cloned to look like the original sensors, including duplicate serial numbers.

I don't know what your 'pre-programmed' sensors actually are. If they're OEM sensors, you'll still need to program their S/Ns in you Caddy's BCM. If they're universal, you would need to provide your current S/Ns to the supplier.

Maybe Hobo can clarify this.
Programable sensos.

If the old sensor will communicate with the tool you can copy and add to the replacement sensor wireless (clone).

If the old is dead and you can read the code on the sensor you can manually code the new sensor with the original code, make one up are let the tool pick a code out of thin air.

Non Programable

Its going to depend on how the vehicle goes a Relearn. Generally you install the sensor get the vehicle into relearn state wake the sensor up with the tool the tool records the code and position. You plug into the OBD connector and turn the ignition switch on the tool writes the codes into the system.

This can go well are be like trying to put socks on a Roster.
 
Programable sensos.

If the old sensor will communicate with the tool you can copy and add to the replacement sensor wireless (clone).

If the old is dead and you can read the code on the sensor you can manually code the new sensor with the original code, make one up are let the tool pick a code out of thin air.

Non Programable

Its going to depend on how the vehicle goes a Relearn. Generally you install the sensor get the vehicle into relearn state wake the sensor up with the tool the tool records the code and position. You plug into the OBD connector and turn the ignition switch on the tool writes the codes into the system.

This can go well are be like trying to put socks on a Roster.
OK, that's helpful information, and it explains the difference in how two tire shops handled my sensors.

When I took my Silverado into a reputable shop here in Michigan, they had my truck in and out in maybe half an hour. Long enough to swap out the sensors but not much more. They definitely didn't take it for a drive.

I took the Acadia into a somewhat less reputable shop in Florida, mainly because I knew from experience they would do the tire repair fairly quickly. But it turned out the tire wasn't repairable, so I ordered tires and told them to replace the sensors as well. First they tried to talk me into not replacing the thirteen year-old sensors, then told me they'd have to order the sensors. (Not a good sign.) The next day the tires came in and they spent a couple of hours changing and balancing them. After they finally got the tires on the car, they told me they still needed to program the sensors, and took the car for a drive. After fifteen minutes the tech came back, pulled the car in the shop and did something, then went for another drive. After two or three drives they finally turned the car over to me.

Oh, but I wasn't done with the Florida tire shop's work. The replaced the spare tire upside-down, so it was loose under the car. I'm surprised we didn't lose it. And I later found a slow leak around the rim of one wheel where they hadn't properly cleaned it. I think I'm done with those guys.
 
You can buy a set of 4 pressure sensors that screw on in place of the regular valve stem caps with a small solar charging display that monitors each tire for pressure, temperature, and low or high pressure for less than $35 on flea bay. I put them on all my vehicles because they display the pressure all the time you are driving. This is just one of many

🧑‍🌾
Problem with valve stem monitoring caps.... is that they end up putting weight on the outer valve stem. throw it out of balance, pull excessively on it, and can cause it to leak, crack early, and fail early... the exact opposite of what your trying to stop. At least the several sets I have tired, have all ended up leaking in either the stem or actually in the cap itself. Also, only good for low pressure tires and no so much for higher load range tires. So if your tires are not 32 lbs, you may be out of luck, especially if its 70 psi to 110 psi. AND.. most are good for only two years or so and battery is dead.. And most all require a separate monitor that has to be powered and or slides around the dash. So they end up being more dangerous and higher risk than not using them at all. But then you can buy some little lights that spin around on your stems and and increase vibration also, so "whatahey?" (old Indian saying)
 
OK, that's helpful information, and it explains the difference in how two tire shops handled my sensors.

When I took my Silverado into a reputable shop here in Michigan, they had my truck in and out in maybe half an hour. Long enough to swap out the sensors but not much more. They definitely didn't take it for a drive.

I took the Acadia into a somewhat less reputable shop in Florida, mainly because I knew from experience they would do the tire repair fairly quickly. But it turned out the tire wasn't repairable, so I ordered tires and told them to replace the sensors as well. First they tried to talk me into not replacing the thirteen year-old sensors, then told me they'd have to order the sensors. (Not a good sign.) The next day the tires came in and they spent a couple of hours changing and balancing them. After they finally got the tires on the car, they told me they still needed to program the sensors, and took the car for a drive. After fifteen minutes the tech came back, pulled the car in the shop and did something, then went for another drive. After two or three drives they finally turned the car over to me.

Oh, but I wasn't done with the Florida tire shop's work. The replaced the spare tire upside-down, so it was loose under the car. I'm surprised we didn't lose it. And I later found a slow leak around the rim of one wheel where they hadn't properly cleaned it. I think I'm done with those guys.
Sometimes you have to drive it to complete the relearn are get the TPMS light to turn off.
 
mark
sensors went out on my 2018 xt5. they were made in mexico 433 hz. The same sensor are used in my 2023 Xt5. Amazon shows a set of 4 preprogrammed 433 Mhz sensors for under $30. ' MY question is If I ordered sensors and put one inside a mower tire and inflated the tire. then remove a tire on the car and put the mower tire next to the car would the car recognize the sensor inside the mower tire? Does think make any sense to you?
This is A way of testing Amazon sensors before installing them on the car rim. opinion?
IS the valve stem hole in the rim a standard size?
Tire shops carry adapters for thee valve stem hole in rims. For instance, Slime brand metal valve stems are smaller diameter than OEM stems, but the adapters make it possible to use them in golf cart rims.
 
OK, that's helpful information, and it explains the difference in how two tire shops handled my sensors.

When I took my Silverado into a reputable shop here in Michigan, they had my truck in and out in maybe half an hour. Long enough to swap out the sensors but not much more. They definitely didn't take it for a drive.

I took the Acadia into a somewhat less reputable shop in Florida, mainly because I knew from experience they would do the tire repair fairly quickly. But it turned out the tire wasn't repairable, so I ordered tires and told them to replace the sensors as well. First they tried to talk me into not replacing the thirteen year-old sensors, then told me they'd have to order the sensors. (Not a good sign.) The next day the tires came in and they spent a couple of hours changing and balancing them. After they finally got the tires on the car, they told me they still needed to program the sensors, and took the car for a drive. After fifteen minutes the tech came back, pulled the car in the shop and did something, then went for another drive. After two or three drives they finally turned the car over to me.

Oh, but I wasn't done with the Florida tire shop's work. The replaced the spare tire upside-down, so it was loose under the car. I'm surprised we didn't lose it. And I later found a slow leak around the rim of one wheel where they hadn't properly cleaned it. I think I'm done with those guys.
A little info on auto relearn systems all auto relearn are about the same.

Most Hyundai TPMS systems have an auto relearn function, but if a shop is initializing/registering a sensor or doing a manual relearn, they will need a TPMS tool that can capture the sensor IDs and program them into the TPMS module.


I doubt most tire shops embrace TPMS they as soon steer you away from it. Tire shops make it selling tires and low level repairs. They all try and out do the others so they also undercut prices on tpms sales. I have enoufh problems so shy away from low end TPMS parts and garbage tools.

I am a small operation I have invested thousands into TPMS parts and tools I will never make my investment back. SO I don't work on this system cheap are give my time away. I charge to do a relearn when I rotate the tires. If you don't like it you can go somewhere else we both will be happy.

SO you don't like that, I get the shaft all the time. My primary TPMS tool is a BARTECH 500 at the time I brought it it was the latest greatest just only 1500.00. I was tired of all the other tools i had bought none worked well most just ate away on time. BARTECH was the go to on auto professional sites so i went for the kill.

Nine years later bartech does not support my 500 anymore so no more updates. It takes several TPMS tools to get by I have not found one that will do it all. Its the same on other diagnostic Equitment when they decide to end support.
If you don't like it you can go somewhere else we both will be happy.
 
Problem with valve stem monitoring caps.... is that they end up putting weight on the outer valve stem. throw it out of balance, pull excessively on it, and can cause it to leak, crack early, and fail early... the exact opposite of what your trying to stop. At least the several sets I have tired, have all ended up leaking in either the stem or actually in the cap itself. Also, only good for low pressure tires and no so much for higher load range tires. So if your tires are not 32 lbs, you may be out of luck, especially if its 70 psi to 110 psi. AND.. most are good for only two years or so and battery is dead.. And most all require a separate monitor that has to be powered and or slides around the dash. So they end up being more dangerous and higher risk than not using them at all. But then you can buy some little lights that spin around on your stems and and increase vibration also, so "whatahey?" (old Indian saying)
Not accurate; check out Pressure Pro, TST/Truck Systems Technologies truck/MH tire sensor kits.
 
Not accurate; check out Pressure Pro, TST/Truck Systems Technologies truck/MH tire sensor kits.
That why I said you MAY be out of luck.. as most are set to low pressure... I have those in my rv mags and yes I have metal valve stems on the 22 inch rims but DONT have metal stems on the g rated (14ply)16in duallys on the goosenecks and toyhauler. The toyhauler (non dually) does infact have problem with the add on caps with its alloy mag wheels making it leak. thus no caps, no extensions.. and only the metal valve stems.. The factory hybrid stems will not work at all, so I have had to change them out.
 
Yesterday I took the Enclave into our local (Michigan) tire shop and had its sensors replaced. I was in and out in less than an hour, even though they were busy. Total cost was $322 plus sales tax. (75 bucks each for the sensors plus 22 for "shop supplies". They must buy their shop towels at Neiman-Marcus.) I don't think they're losing money replacing TPMS sensors.

Although this subject has been pretty well beat to death, I wanted to mention one more thing: TPMS sensors don't immediately go to sleep when stationary. I know this because whenever I air up my tires I always compare the TPMS readings to my tire gauge. I do that both to make sure the sensors are accurate and also to be sure I don't need to do a relearn. There's a bit of a delay between airing up a tire and the TPMS response, but it's less than a minute.

A while back my BIL told me he had a problem with the TPMS in his pickup truck. "It says I have a low tire, but I aired it up to 45 pounds and it still shows low." I asked him what the other tires were reading. "Hmm. I got 38, 20, 39 and 50." I asked him if he had the tires rotated recently. "Yeah I did. How did you know?"
 
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