A couple of months ago I bought a '74 Ford 2000 with front end loader and bush hog. I bought a yard box for it to work my road, 1/2 mile off paved road. It has 12.4 x 28 tires,and no wheel weights on it. My problem is I don't have traction to pull the box up even a slight incline. It appears to me with the weight of the loader I need wider tires and weights on the rear. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. CR
 
Yep, you need to add weight to the rear wheels.



i have a 640 with a loader that thing was useless until I added a set of pie weights. I couldn't believe the difference it made.
 
Rear wheel drive tractors require substantial added ballast in order to do much of anything with a FEL.

Liquid ballast is a good start .

A counterweight is even better.

Dean
 
The tires were filled when I bought the tractor. Would the weights be enough or should I also get bigger(wider) tires and rims also? Is it possible to find used wheel weights? I've looked for WW in my area but have had no luck. I purchased some suitcase weights and am building mounts for them behind the rear axle, but about 600lb is all I'd be able to get in the area I have. If I can find wheel weights I'd sell the suitcase weights. Thanks, CR
 
You say tires are filled but are they fill up as much as they should be?? I have had a 841 now for 25 plus years with a loader and have run it both ways filled and not filled and yes a blade can/will cause problems due to the loader there. Guess that is why I also leanred years ago a back blade and a drive way while yes it works a grader mid mount works a whole lot better but then I do own a road grader
 
I looked for over a year before I found wheel weights for mine. I found them by chance rite here from another member, only 50 miles away.
 
neighbor has a 2000 industrial [ one of the differences besides being yellow is a beefy non adjustable front axle] with a fel, it came that way back in 70, it has the same problem to a degree we searched ebay and found a set of wheel weights, these mount to the inside of the wheel between it and the fender and are half circles, heavy as heck too, that plus loaded tires made a huge difference, even so there are some places on the trails where we have to pull downhill, only other way is to use a 4x4 tractor or remove the loader to tip the weight bias to the rear, and if yours is like ours removing the loader is not an option its basicly part of the tractor not a quick r&r type
 

You don't want wider tires. Wider will give you a larger foot print and will reduce the pressure pressing down onto the ground.
 
(quoted from post at 16:49:21 06/11/15) neighbor has a 2000 industrial [ one of the differences besides being yellow is a beefy non adjustable front axle] with a fel, it came that way back in 70, it has the same problem to a degree we searched ebay and found a set of wheel weights, these mount to the inside of the wheel between it and the fender and are half circles, heavy as heck too, that plus loaded tires made a huge difference, even so there are some places on the trails where we have to pull downhill, only other way is to use a 4x4 tractor or remove the loader to tip the weight bias to the rear, and if yours is like ours removing the loader is not an option its basicly part of the tractor not a quick r&r type

A 1970 2000 would be a 3 cylinder model. I was unaware of an industrial version of that model. I would be interested in the model number that is stamped into the flat spot on the bell housing or on the foil sticker under the hood if that's still there so I can add it to my references. Thanks in advance if you can get that number.

-Sean
 
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