Tractor accessory grounding with wires

I'll be wiring a tractor, eventually. Simple, 6 volt, positive ground. Just generator and lights.

It would normally rely on chassis grounds, light housing to light bracket, to radiator, to engine, then to transmission. Especially since a lot of stuff has been painted I'm debating running separate wires for grounds, which I know does work.

Would it be a problem if I ran all the grounds together as a go, in what might amount to a single ground wire?

Example: Left headlight ground wire runs into Right headlight ground wire, then this combo goes into Generator ground wire, which I may just run right to the ground cable off battery.

Would daisy chaining these wires cause problems?

Brandon
 
It would work, but be less reliable for al grounded things, and much more trouble to create. Chassis grounds on some fixtures can be sanded clean and be good for a lifetime. others can have a Star washer used to assure ground. If you desire wire grounding, grounding each device independently and coating the ground fixture with liquid tape to keep them conductive is far superior. If all connected, a failure is not easy to find. Jim
 
Thanks. After some thought and discussion I'm going to try star washers under everything to force things to be grounded!

Brandon
 
If it is a mechanical stress point (structural, or location dependent), the clean and shiny approach there is better, otherwise go for the stars. Jim
 
<I'll be wiring a tractor, eventually. Simple, 6 volt, positive ground. Just generator and lights.>

IMHO Chassis ground have been successfully used for decades, so so why take the SIMPLE out of your wiring. If it was my tractor, I would NOT daisy chain a ground wire for multiple reasons. Especially if you are doing a purist renovation.
 
Chassis grounding is very effective but in the case of some tractors ; especially those with some alloy casings extra wiring can help .
For instance in Ferguson tractors an insulating compound is used between cast iron and alloy components to stop electrolysis. This interferes with the circuit and can lead to poor current transmission.
The fix is easy , simple short, flat braided straps linking the engine , transmission and rear casings .
 
I use grounds as you describe except for the chaining of them. Truacks have been using ground wiring for decades to connect across places of possible poor ground connections like hitches and fifth wheels. I like to use ground wires in places where water and dirt are thrown onto or near electrical wires like in under the fenders of rear wheels so fender lights have good connections to them. But then I use soldered joints so I know they are good connections over long times. Soldered joints leave very little to have trouble with. I also use grounds on places like front head lights since there can be a lot of debris that is splashed on the front of tractors in on road use. I just like to know I have good grounds when most things will fail due to poor grounds on vehicles. Even semi trailers have a dedicated ground wire with the White wire that goes back to the battery connection on them may not gor directly to the battery but is close to it not just a ground to the frame as soon as it gets back to the truck.
 
I'm cheap. I don't throw copper wire away. I used old extension cords to wire my Jubilee. Old 2 wire extension cords are 14 g and have an extra layer of outer protection. I also installed a 15 amp fuse. I didn't use the metal frame for grounding.
 
Take a look at the original wiring harness or wiring diagram and copy that arrangement. Daisy chaining will add more connections to the circuit. Loose and corroded connections are often a source of problems.

On trailers I've had good luck cutting up inexpensive 16 gauge outdoor extension cords for wiring to lights. The ground wire in the extension cord works well to bring a ground to the lights and the extra rubber cover around the bundle helps protect the wires. I can usually find a color close to the same as the trailer frame so the wires are less conspicuous.
 
I've used 3 wire 16 or 14 g extension cords with protection to run to the rear lights on my trailer. Green for ground, White for left turn light, Black for right turn light.
 
Mornin Brandon, For simple wiring on an old tractor (maybe not same for trailer wiring) I still use chassis iron for the ground return current path, HOWEVER, anytime I attached to frame ground I connected any wiring terminals by crimping, soldering and heat shrink cover. As far as any nut and bolt type connections to frame, I first used a grinder and/or a wire brush to remove any paint and rust, get it all clean bright n shiny, and then used TWO star washers on BOTH head and nut side of the bolts,,,,,Finally, I used silicone etc to cover and seal the frame connection nut bolt to seal off water and oxygen in an attempt to reduce oxidation, maybe touch up paint. After ALL THAT (even if over the top lol) I never had problems.

Im sure there are other opinions and methods, maybe better maybe worse, and other experiences BUT THIS IS WHAT WORKED BEST FOR ME. Its fun to see what others do.

John T
 
I guess I am going against the grain on this one!

Back in the 90s, when I restored my Mother's Moline BG, I added ground wires for all the lights. I did not do away with any connections to the frame of the tractor. The wires run all the way back to where the battery ground cable grounds to the starter. I did not do away with any frame grounds, but if you are familiar with the Minneapolis Moline BG, it has the engine and other components mounted to a channel frame. then there are about five other bolted together connections between the frame and the headlights themselves, most of which would be difficult and time consuming to take apart and 'clean' in order to ensure a good ground connection. Since I was already making a wiring harness it was just another wire to run in the harness.

Last Winter I used the tractor after dark to move something at my shop and those lights still worked!

I also used to add ground wires regularly to Wheel Horse tractors that have a similar problem with the starter. There are four bolted connections between where the factory battery cable ground wire mounts and the starter. In every case it improved the operation of the starter.
 

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