Tractor Batteries

Fix the parasitic drain! It's a tractor relatively simple to troubleshoot not many accessories.
There is on a John Deere built in the past 5 yrs. My cousin has a 150HP one that has all manner of electrical problems. The John Deere shop said the complete wiring harness has to be replaced, just the harness is $795. At present, sometimes the engine will not shut down, when it does shut down,, often one headlight comes on which means a dead battery. I forget what else he said was happening.
I guess you're right, replacing the harness is simple, and a lot of labor.
 
for group 31 battery i buy them at heavy duty truck dealer my go to place is Packer City IH they are the cheapest are fresh they sell a ton of batteries
Is a Group 31 the size of a 27 but has centered 3/8" studs? If so, that's what I get at the OTR dealer. They buy them by the pallet, are 1000 Amp rated and are a lot cheaper than smaller batteries at regular retailers.......but they are heavy.....but that's OK. The other service they have is the ability to build battery cables for you.
 
Is a Group 31 the size of a 27 but has centered 3/8" studs? If so, that's what I get at the OTR dealer. They buy them by the pallet, are 1000 Amp rated and are a lot cheaper than smaller batteries at regular retailers.......but they are heavy.....but that's OK. The other service they have is the ability to build battery cables for you.

The group 31 (available with top posts or 3/8-16 top studs) is actually slightly larger than the group 27 batteries. If you got it from an over the road truck shop it is likely you got a Group 31 battery. Group 31 is commonly used now in OTR truck generally making the cost better at such shops due to the volume used.

BCI battery group chart
 
Can not go wrong with the highest AH battery that will fit in the battery compartment.
Normally for farm use and the normalities of farm life I'd agree. I'm a STO and everything is basically touched or within reach every day. I have some improved trickle chargers on most all my batteries and if they aren't on one, being the larger (as you mentioned) batteries, they get checked at least once a week and if needed I get out the extension cards and trickle them back up.
 
For anything that I can shoe horn a group 31 into, that is what it gets. Change the terminals to 3/8 rings and be done with it. At any given time one of the local truck dealers has stud top batteries on sale.

My next choice is a 65,
Back in 2010 a dealer wanted $400 to replace a battery. No way! I replaced with a group 31 and changed the ends and ever since then I use
a group 31 into all cars that I can.
 
Let’s not forget that “Group 31” is the case size if the battery . The internals , the height, width and thickness of the plates vary .
You have to read the AH and CCA on the side of the battery .
There are premium group 24 and 27 batteries that are superior to the low cost group 31 batteries at Bargain bob’s auto parts store .
 

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Parasitic drain is in the tractor wiring and I can't find it. It is so small that there is no spark when I switch the battery on in the dark. Putting a switch on the battery solved it! Tractor sits 10 - 20 times more than it runs.
A $10 VOM ( Volt-OHM meter ) can be used to hunt down a parasitic drain. Failing alternators, starters, radios are common drains.
 
Soon after retirement I realized that replacing batteries was something that didn't give me adequate return on what I was spending. I bought four maintainers and have replaced just one battery now in five years, and that was in a daily driver.
 
Soon after retirement I realized that replacing batteries was something that didn't give me adequate return on what I was spending. I bought four maintainers and have replaced just one battery now in five years, and that was in a daily driver.
I've returned several batteries to service by using a pulse-charger to desulfate the plates and equalize the charge across cells.
 
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