Tractor for Hilly Terrain

[Ozarkian]

I have been working on a pasture restoration project and am wanting a bigger tractor than what I have now. I currently have an early '80s Ford 2110 (Shibaura built), 38 hp. I mow with it and pull a 2 bottom plow and 6 foot mounted disk. Those implements aren't cutting it at this point. I have very heavy rocky clay sod I am working with and it takes about 6 passes with that disk to break up plowed furrows, and even then it's not very leveled out. I am needing a heavier pull behind disk to do the job right (and I might get a rototiller). It would also be nice to be able to run a small square baler and bigger mower once I get my pastures reestablished. Parts are also expensive and difficult to find for that tractor since it was built in Japan.

For larger tractors I really like the old International Harvester 56 and 66 series, but I am not sure how well they would work in my area though because the terrain is very hilly and rough. I am afraid of turning one over. I am thinking about maybe a Ford 5000 or 7000 series, they seem to have lower centers of gravity. Does anyone have any suggestions for utility tractors to consider for hilly terrain for tillage and mowing, and possibly hay work?

 

[SkipperII]

If you extend the front axles and rear wheels out, on the Ford thousand series tractors, they should be very stable on side hills. I would think something like the IH 666 utility would be equally stable.

 

[rrlund]

What are your neighbors using?

 

[ratface]

I have very hilly terrain and it can get downright scary, that said I have had my 8N up every hill I own but outfitted it with a ROPS. I am not recommending an 8N as you need a bigger tractor but you are considering older tractors without ROPS, do yourself a favor and plan to buy an aftermarket ROPS, perhaps you could start by seeing who makes a ROPS for what you are considering?

 

[Powered By IH]

I have been working on a pasture restoration project and am wanting a bigger tractor than what I have now. I currently have an early '80s Ford 2110 (Shibaura built), 38 hp. I mow with it and pull a 2 bottom plow and 6 foot mounted disk. Those implements aren't cutting it at this point. I have very heavy rocky clay sod I am working with and it takes about 6 passes with that disk to break up plowed furrows, and even then it's not very leveled out. I am needing a heavier pull behind disk to do the job right (and I might get a rototiller). It would also be nice to be able to run a small square baler and bigger mower once I get my pastures reestablished. Parts are also expensive and difficult to find for that tractor since it was built in Japan.

For larger tractors I really like the old International Harvester 56 and 66 series, but I am not sure how well they would work in my area though because the terrain is very hilly and rough. I am afraid of turning one over. I am thinking about maybe a Ford 5000 or 7000 series, they seem to have lower centers of gravity. Does anyone have any suggestions for utility tractors to consider for hilly terrain for tillage and mowing, and possibly hay work?

Does it matter whether it's diesel or gas?
Are you brand-specific at all?
Is there certain features you want like live PTO or TA or does it really not matter?
What horsepower range are you shooting for?

 

[DanielW]

We have some stupidly hilly and rocky terrain at our Northern farm up in the Canadian Shield. For years, our Ford 5000 pretty much ran the whole 850 acres of farm/logging operation, and has seen a stupid amount of abuse over the decades. Still running like a champ, and is a favourite of ours for it's stability and ruggedness. Prior to that was a Fordson Major- similarly robust and similarly low centre of gravity.

Other tractors we have (or have had) at that farm are a Ford 6600, Deere 2120, IH W6, Massey 44, Kubota L4150, and White 2-105. The 6600 and 2120 are also great units of similar size/vintage, but both have a little higher centre of gravity and can get pretty light on the uphill side when running along the side hills. I was once plowing with the 6600 and a 3X16 Kverneland, dropped the down-hill tire into a groundhog hole, and the uphill tire came up into the air for a second or two before gently coming back down. More than a little nerve-wracking.

With the 2120 tires set out wide it does just dandy on the side hills (and is now probably our most stable and comfortable tractor), but it's set far too wide for plowing. The White is by far the worst - even with the tires set out a little wide. We could set them out even wider to get more stability, but they're already too wide for plowing (and my preference is just to avoid using the White whenever possible, because I hate it for many reasons). Those Whites would make superb tractors on flatter land, but I find the 105 absolutely hateful to use on our hilly terrain because it seems so tall/spindly and freewheels in low range. You can feel it getting veeery light on the uphill side when running along some side hills, and there are areas I definitely wouldn't take it on that I take other tractors on (I also despise its cab and control layout). The W6 is fun for nostalgic reasons, but it's higher, rearward seat (and its ridiculous seating position - having to sit like you're giving birth) are definitely not ideal on hilly terrain.

Another option in that size/vintage might be a Massey 165 - also simple, robust, lower centre of gravity. Any tractor with the more European/British layout (squatter frame and lower seating position ahead of the axle) is what you'd probably want. But with any tractor, if you can set the tires out wide you'll gain a lot in stability. At our Northern farm all the tractors have tires set out a little wider than ideal for our plow's centre of draft, but the extra stability outweighs the slight side-draft problem.

Hard to go wrong with a Ford 5000 (or similar Ford) in my opinion. The problem you run into with them, however, is that no one ever sells one unless it's absolutely beat to heck.

 

[560Dennis]

Derik made a video about hillside mowing that may be helpful.

Think tires and ballast are important .

 

[Ozarkian]

What are your neighbors using?

My neighbors are cattle and horse operations and are using mostly newer JDs and NHs. I can't really justify the cost of a newer tractor.

 

[Ozarkian]

Does it matter whether it's diesel or gas?
Are you brand-specific at all?
Is there certain features you want like live PTO or TA or does it really not matter?
What horsepower range are you shooting for?

-Diesel
-Not really, as long as it's reliable and easy to work on. I've always admired International Harvester, but owned a Ford.
-Live PTO preferred, TA doesn't really matter to me. It would be nice to have a foot throttle, but it's not a requirement. I've always found a foot throttle to be very useful for hills and rough ground. I can set the hand throttle to idle and drive with my foot and if I hit an uneven patch or a slope you can take your foot off the throttle and the tractor immediately slows to an almost stop.
-60 hp would probably be the absolute minimum (Ford 5000), but more is better.

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

I have been working on a pasture restoration project and am wanting a bigger tractor than what I have now. I currently have an early '80s Ford 2110 (Shibaura built), 38 hp. I mow with it and pull a 2 bottom plow and 6 foot mounted disk. Those implements aren't cutting it at this point. I have very heavy rocky clay sod I am working with and it takes about 6 passes with that disk to break up plowed furrows, and even then it's not very leveled out. I am needing a heavier pull behind disk to do the job right (and I might get a rototiller). It would also be nice to be able to run a small square baler and bigger mower once I get my pastures reestablished. Parts are also expensive and difficult to find for that tractor since it was built in Japan.

For larger tractors I really like the old International Harvester 56 and 66 series, but I am not sure how well they would work in my area though because the terrain is very hilly and rough. I am afraid of turning one over. I am thinking about maybe a Ford 5000 or 7000 series, they seem to have lower centers of gravity. Does anyone have any suggestions for utility tractors to consider for hilly terrain for tillage and mowing, and possibly hay work?

I have been working on a pasture restoration project and am wanting a bigger tractor than what I have now. I currently have an early '80s Ford 2110 (Shibaura built), 38 hp. I mow with it and pull a 2 bottom plow and 6 foot mounted disk. Those implements aren't cutting it at this point. I have very heavy rocky clay sod I am working with and it takes about 6 passes with that disk to break up plowed furrows, and even then it's not very leveled out. I am needing a heavier pull behind disk to do the job right (and I might get a rototiller). It would also be nice to be able to run a small square baler and bigger mower once I get my pastures reestablished. Parts are also expensive and difficult to find for that tractor since it was built in Japan.

For larger tractors I really like the old International Harvester 56 and 66 series, but I am not sure how well they would work in my area though because the terrain is very hilly and rough. I am afraid of turning one over. I am thinking about maybe a Ford 5000 or 7000 series, they seem to have lower centers of gravity. Does anyone have any suggestions for utility tractors to consider for hilly terrain for tillage and mowing, and possibly hay work?

Any of the major brand tractors mentioned would work favorably for your need. I am partial to the Ford 5000 thru 7000 thousand series but, IH and Massey Ferguson had some good units in that Hp range along with some others. Wheels moved out for a wide stance with plenty of ballast is desired for hilly ground. Rollover protection and common sense are needed when working that type of ground. I would not want a rototiller if the ground is heavy with rocks. Rough on equipment and the operator. You may need a rock rake to gather all the rocks up after you do get the ground in shape since you are wanting to put some of it in hay.

I have been working on a pasture restoration project and am wanting a bigger tractor than what I have now. I currently have an early '80s Ford 2110 (Shibaura built), 38 hp. I mow with it and pull a 2 bottom plow and 6 foot mounted disk. Those implements aren't cutting it at this point. I have very heavy rocky clay sod I am working with and it takes about 6 passes with that disk to break up plowed furrows, and even then it's not very leveled out. I am needing a heavier pull behind disk to do the job right (and I might get a rototiller). It would also be nice to be able to run a small square baler and bigger mower once I get my pastures reestablished. Parts are also expensive and difficult to find for that tractor since it was built in Japan.

For larger tractors I really like the old International Harvester 56 and 66 series, but I am not sure how well they would work in my area though because the terrain is very hilly and rough. I am afraid of turning one over. I am thinking about maybe a Ford 5000 or 7000 series, they seem to have lower centers of gravity. Does anyone have any suggestions for utility tractors to consider for hilly terrain for tillage and mowing, and possibly hay work?

 

[Ozarkian]

We have some stupidly hilly and rocky terrain at our Northern farm up in the Canadian Shield. For years, our Ford 5000 pretty much ran the whole 850 acres of farm/logging operation, and has seen a stupid amount of abuse over the decades. Still running like a champ, and is a favourite of ours for it's stability and ruggedness. Prior to that was a Fordson Major- similarly robust and similarly low centre of gravity.

Other tractors we have (or have had) at that farm are a Ford 6600, Deere 2120, IH W6, Massey 44, Kubota L4150, and White 2-105. The 6600 and 2120 are also great units of similar size/vintage, but both have a little higher centre of gravity and can get pretty light on the uphill side when running along the side hills. I was once plowing with the 6600 and a 3X16 Kverneland, dropped the down-hill tire into a groundhog hole, and the uphill tire came up into the air for a second or two before gently coming back down. More than a little nerve-wracking.

With the 2120 tires set out wide it does just dandy on the side hills (and is now probably our most stable and comfortable tractor), but it's set far too wide for plowing. The White is by far the worst - even with the tires set out a little wide. We could set them out even wider to get more stability, but they're already too wide for plowing (and my preference is just to avoid using the White whenever possible, because I hate it for many reasons). Those Whites would make superb tractors on flatter land, but I find the 105 absolutely hateful to use on our hilly terrain because it seems so tall/spindly and freewheels in low range. You can feel it getting veeery light on the uphill side when running along some side hills, and there are areas I definitely wouldn't take it on that I take other tractors on (I also despise its cab and control layout). The W6 is fun for nostalgic reasons, but it's higher, rearward seat (and its ridiculous seating position - having to sit like you're giving birth) are definitely not ideal on hilly terrain.

Another option in that size/vintage might be a Massey 165 - also simple, robust, lower centre of gravity. Any tractor with the more European/British layout (squatter frame and lower seating position ahead of the axle) is what you'd probably want. But with any tractor, if you can set the tires out wide you'll gain a lot in stability. At our Northern farm all the tractors have tires set out a little wider than ideal for our plow's centre of draft, but the extra stability outweighs the slight side-draft problem.

Hard to go wrong with a Ford 5000 (or similar Ford) in my opinion. The problem you run into with them, however, is that no one ever sells one unless it's absolutely beat to heck.

Thank you for the input! I actually saw a Massey 165 for sale the other day, but didn't know much about them.

 

[Ozarkian]

Derik made a video about hillside mowing that may be helpful.

Think tires and ballast are important .

Nice info! Thanks! That's a really nice 86 series too.

 

[Mark-Mi]

A disc is a poor leveling tool.
And a rototiller would be a poor tool to use in rocky field conditions.

 

[Ozarkian]

Any of the major brand tractors mentioned would work favorably for your need. I am partial to the Ford 5000 thru 7000 thousand series but, IH and Massey Ferguson had some good units in that Hp range along with some others. Wheels moved out for a wide stance with plenty of ballast is desired for hilly ground. Rollover protection and common sense are needed when working that type of ground. I would not want a rototiller if the ground is heavy with rocks. Rough on equipment and the operator. You may need a rock rake to gather all the rocks up after you do get the ground in shape since you are wanting to put some of it in hay.

Thanks for the input! Yeah, ballast and ROP is definitely a must in my part of the world. I wouldn't even consider going without either.

 

[Ozarkian]

A disc is a poor leveling tool.
And a rototiller would be a poor tool to use in rocky field conditions.

Interestingly, I just talked to a man in my area this afternoon that has good success without doing any tilling. He just sprays everything off, mows it , and no-till drills. That might be the way to go.

 

[Mark-Mi]

Now you've opened up a whole new discussion.
First you talked of pasture maintenance. Now you're talking about farming it. How many acres are you considering farming? No Till can work well and would allow the use of a smaller tractor.
In my opinion, mowing before you no-till plant is not ideal. That just puts a heavier matt of residue on the ground to deal with.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for the input! Yeah, ballast and ROP is definitely a must in my part of the world. I wouldn't even consider going without either.

If you want a ROPS on any farm tractors of the vintage, you are discussing, you need to find out if there is a factory designed one or an aftermarket designed and certified for the tractor. Certification is required to be a ROPS, no certification means it is just a canopy. A seatbelt is required for use with a ROPS. Iron Bull Manufacturing and Bare Co USA are couple that build/offer aftermarket ROPS for some tractors.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

X2 on the mowing before you plant, don't do it. However, mowing AFTER you plant will retain moisture and help with germination.

 

[Ozarkian]

Now you've opened up a whole new discussion.
First you talked of pasture maintenance. Now you're talking about farming it. How many acres are you considering farming? No Till can work well and would allow the use of a smaller tractor.
In my opinion, mowing before you no-till plant is not ideal. That just puts a heavier matt of residue on the ground to deal with.

We were talking about no-tilling hay fields. I am working on getting a 9 acre pasture into hay. Then once I have that established I could get up to 20 acres of my 80 into hay and forage.