tractor hauler question

2x4

Well-known Member
My Chevy 2500 Suburban (2009) 'crumps over' when I make a sharp turn in either direction at slow speeds like when I park. Don't know if it does it at high speeds or not, afraid to try. It feels like the whole front end shifts over, the same way an excavators worn out turntable will 'crump' if you rock the cab with the bucket while digging. I can't think of what would be worn or loose that would make the whole front-end shift. Mileage about 180,000. Ideas?
 
From experience, I had to replace idler & Pitman arms. Also check the sway bar bushings, ball joints & rag joint to start. Best bet would be to get an assessment at a trusted alignment shop. That way you don't replace any unnecessary parts.

Hope that helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2x4
My Chevy 2500 Suburban (2009) 'crumps over' when I make a sharp turn in either direction at slow speeds like when I park. Don't know if it does it at high speeds or not, afraid to try. It feels like the whole front end shifts over, the same way an excavators worn out turntable will 'crump' if you rock the cab with the bucket while digging. I can't think of what would be worn or loose that would make the whole front-end shift. Mileage about 180,000. Ideas?
Is it a 2wd or 4wd ?
 
Might be something as simple ? as upper or lower control arms loose where they attach to frame. Also....ther is the chance of steering gear being loose on frame or actually frame have stress cracks at mounting points.
 
Not sure if “crump over” is your own made up term, but I have certainly never heard of a front suspension symptom having that description. I will just add this. To properly check the ball joints and upper control arm bushings you have to unload them from the vehicle weight and the coil spring pressure. This is done by jacking the vehicle one side at a time with a floor jack under the lower control arm with using a jack point as close to the wheel as possible. This local is approximately shown by the #7 in the linked diagram. Suspension diagram
One thing that can help you particularly with checking for play in the lower ball joint is to place a 2x4 several inches in front of the tire. Then use a large pry bar at least 2 ft long, 3 is better to pry up and down and side to side under the tire using the 2x4 as a fulcrum point. Someone operating the bar and another person with a good light watching for excess play is optimal for the process to be most effective. Checking the lower control are pivot bushings on this type of suspension requires a bit of know how that would be fairly lengthy to explain here. You definitely need a large pry bar for that because you have to over come coil spring pressure to do it. The vehicle needs raised 2 - 3 feet off the ground, more is better, to do that properly.
 
From experience, I had to replace idler & Pitman arms. Also check the sway bar bushings, ball joints & rag joint to start. Best bet would be to get an assessment at a trusted alignment shop. That way you don't replace any unnecessary parts.

Hope that helps.
X2 Best bet would be to get an assessment at a trusted alignment shop.
 
Not sure if “crump over” is your own made up term, but I have certainly never heard of a front suspension symptom having that description. I will just add this. To properly check the ball joints and upper control arm bushings you have to unload them from the vehicle weight and the coil spring pressure. This is done by jacking the vehicle one side at a time with a floor jack under the lower control arm with using a jack point as close to the wheel as possible. This local is approximately shown by the #7 in the linked diagram. Suspension diagram
One thing that can help you particularly with checking for play in the lower ball joint is to place a 2x4 several inches in front of the tire. Then use a large pry bar at least 2 ft long, 3 is better to pry up and down and side to side under the tire using the 2x4 as a fulcrum point. Someone operating the bar and another person with a good light watching for excess play is optimal for the process to be most effective. Checking the lower control are pivot bushings on this type of suspension requires a bit of know how that would be fairly lengthy to explain here. You definitely need a large pry bar for that because you have to over come coil spring pressure to do it. The vehicle needs raised 2 - 3 feet off the ground, more is better, to do that properly.

Wrong diagram, his is a Suburban that has torsion bar suspension, no coil springs and different control arms
 
Well boogers, I thought maybe something wasn’t right, thanks 450! Easy to slip up when you aren’t looking at this stuff every once in a while. I believe everything I said still applies outside of checking the lower control arm bushings. I don’t know the OP from Adam, looks like he is a “YT long hauler” I am guessing this is more of a “coffee shop” diagnosis. Rare are those who dive in replacing major suspension components.
 
Well boogers, I thought maybe something wasn’t right, thanks 450! Easy to slip up when you aren’t looking at this stuff every once in a while. I believe everything I said still applies outside of checking the lower control arm bushings. I don’t know the OP from Adam, looks like he is a “YT long hauler” I am guessing this is more of a “coffee shop” diagnosis. Rare are those who dive in replacing major suspension components.

I had to check but our older model has torsion suspension, we’ve had to replace the upper ball joints, but labor wise it was cheaper to purchase the complete upper A arm with ball joint and upper bushings already installed
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top