Tractor hours

I was skeptical, but it sounds like it may be a decent fit for you. It really depends on condition and the balance you want to make between having to do some fixes yourself versus pay some extra money to avoid them. I like to tinker, have a good shop, and like to convince myself that I'm
getting a deal, so I by cheap units. But if you're in school and don't have the time/desire to tear things down and don't want any surprises, the extra money is probably justified.

These numbers don't mean anything, just a way of thinking about it: Make the comparison of the 2-70 to the Allis I mentioned earlier that I got for $2300 with 2600 hours: The White has a loader, so knock $2000 off your price compared to mine. The White has better tires - If they're in good
shape with no cracks, knock another $2000 off the price. The White's a newer tractor with 5 more HP, and you has proper independent PTO vs. the Allis Live PTO, so knock another $2000 off the price. It probably looks way better than mine, so knock another $500 off the price (maybe more, if
you care about looks). Mine needed a carb kit, some distributor work, a tie rod, and me to strip/wash out the fuel tank as it had some crud in it from sitting and never being filled all the way, so knock another $1000 off the price for that work/effort. That brings it down to right about
the same price as I paid for the Allis. Add an extra $1000 for it having more hours on it. Pound for pound it might be a trifle more expensive than the Allis, but I also acknowledge I got a good deal on the Allis, and shipping was only free for me because the owner had to come out my way
with a float anyway. If I had to pay to get it trucked it would have cost me at least $800.

So, if it runs well and isn't worn out, it could be a justified price. The only question left is whether you can justify it for your operation. Used loader tractors scare me a bit because the clutch is always a big concern and the front end can be beat to heck. But they do command a higher
price, and it sounds like you need one. Maybe post some pics after you look at it tonight.

But also consider what it will cost to fix your 1650. If it's only $500 and some time, it might keep you going for a bit. The 1650 might be worn out, but at the end of the day the same hay feeds the same animals that get sold for the same price. All depends on your situation.
 
(quoted from post at 07:44:10 08/29/23) I was skeptical, but it sounds like it may be a decent fit for you. It really depends on condition and the balance you want to make between having to do some fixes yourself versus pay some extra money to avoid them. I like to tinker, have a good shop, and like to convince myself that I'm
getting a deal, so I by cheap units. But if you're in school and don't have the time/desire to tear things down and don't want any surprises, the extra money is probably justified.

These numbers don't mean anything, just a way of thinking about it: Make the comparison of the 2-70 to the Allis I mentioned earlier that I got for $2300 with 2600 hours: The White has a loader, so knock $2000 off your price compared to mine. The White has better tires - If they're in good
shape with no cracks, knock another $2000 off the price. The White's a newer tractor with 5 more HP, and you has proper independent PTO vs. the Allis Live PTO, so knock another $2000 off the price. It probably looks way better than mine, so knock another $500 off the price (maybe more, if
you care about looks). Mine needed a carb kit, some distributor work, a tie rod, and me to strip/wash out the fuel tank as it had some crud in it from sitting and never being filled all the way, so knock another $1000 off the price for that work/effort. That brings it down to right about
the same price as I paid for the Allis. Add an extra $1000 for it having more hours on it. Pound for pound it might be a trifle more expensive than the Allis, but I also acknowledge I got a good deal on the Allis, and shipping was only free for me because the owner had to come out my way
with a float anyway. If I had to pay to get it trucked it would have cost me at least $800.

So, if it runs well and isn't worn out, it could be a justified price. The only question left is whether you can justify it for your operation. Used loader tractors scare me a bit because the clutch is always a big concern and the front end can be beat to heck. But they do command a higher
price, and it sounds like you need one. Maybe post some pics after you look at it tonight.

But also consider what it will cost to fix your 1650. If it's only $500 and some time, it might keep you going for a bit. The 1650 might be worn out, but at the end of the day the same hay feeds the same animals that get sold for the same price. All depends on your situation.

Excellent points and appreciate the breakdown. It is at a dealership. Just talked with him again setting up time to see it tonight as it will be 6pm his time by the time I get there. He will deliver, wants me to take pictures of the Oliver and I have told him no less than 2,500 for it. The hydra power started leaking last fall early winter, put it in the other position and it almost eliminated that leak. I haven't done anything major to the tractor in the time I have owned it unless you call a starter major. Knowing I had to split it for the hydra power I planned on replacing clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing while it was split. It would be nice to have two big tractors with loaders.

This tractor is from his region, was a sale, he doesn't know the circumstances but it was a liquidation.

He is using the terminology of "operable". He just called, they have an Agri Gold event he forgot about, the tractor will be out and available for me to start, drive, use and get a feel of it. I will take pictures for you folks.

I also voiced concerns about the clutch and we agreed on the phone (I will make sure it is written if I buy this) that he would haul the tractor both ways and charge me for parts only. This would be good for 6 months after purchase. I feel this is more than good faith on his part.
 
Six months will put you at the end of February or early March. Unless you have livestock you may not put enough hours on the tractor over winter learn much. I would roll the new clutch into the deal and have it installed before the tractor is delivered.

Until recently any gas tractor needed to be in great condition with near new tires to bring $5,000 in the Midwest.
 
(quoted from post at 09:49:09 08/29/23) Six months will put you at the end of February or early March. Unless you have livestock you may not put enough hours on the tractor over winter learn much. I would roll the new clutch into the deal and have it installed before the tractor is delivered.

Until recently any gas tractor needed to be in great condition with near new tires to bring $5,000 in the Midwest.

Point well taken but do have the 20 acres of baled hay to move off of the fields and line up. Have to bring wood in as we heat with an outside boiler so some logs pulled to a landing area, wagons moved, wood moved to stacks and sheds, so plenty to do as well as snow plowing if we get much. I deliberately said 6 months figuring if it was going to become an issue pushing snow is probably the heaviest work my tractor does. I am of the, "if it isn't broke don't fix it camp" so would hate to have the tractor split with out knowing anything about it.
 
Hello, if it was me I would keep the 1650.
You know what the issues are that need
fixed. At 4000 hours,the other tractor
probably needs a valve job, water pump,
belts and hoses. Don't try to split a
1650. Pull the engine, clutch and 2 speed
as a unit. You can put a straight shaft in
it if you don't use the 2 speed. But it's
your money your choice
 
(quoted from post at 16:25:29 08/29/23) Hello, if it was me I would keep the 1650.
You know what the issues are that need
fixed. At 4000 hours,the other tractor
probably needs a valve job, water pump,
belts and hoses. Don't try to split a
1650. Pull the engine, clutch and 2 speed
as a unit. You can put a straight shaft in
it if you don't use the 2 speed. But it's
your money your choice

I had forgotten another person told me to pull the engine to do that job.

Drove the White last night. A lot nicer than my Oliver.
 
Went and looked and drove the White last night. Knew no one was going to be there, that was fine. Dark clouds all the way there, started sprinkling as soon as I got out of the truck. Checked fluids, needs an oil change (I liked that better than seeing new oil). Nothing glaring with fluids. Got on and yes, felt very familiar to my Oliver. Steering column is supposed to move vertically, didn't for some reason. Paint looked good, loader and arms weren't tweaked, no repairs, paint on tractor looked good, drawbar hole not "wallered" out, original paint on 3 pt arms and area. Did get black on my hands from the steering wheel. Fired right up, drove out nice, lot tighter tractor than my Oliver. As soon as I moved it it started pouring (meaning the sky opened up and rained)!!! I drove it around, found a couple piles of stone (assume for the parking lot/driveway). Drove into it and it filled the bucket without any black smoke, no slip of the clutch and I lifted it and held it for a little while (already was drenched) no bucket lowering or tipping trying to unload. Shut it off, restarted it without any hesitation (on the tractor's part). Pulled up in 6th gear, killed it parking it, restarted instantly (not used to that, my Oliver once warm, keep it running, doesn't start hot). No pictures, sorry, left the phone in the truck. Loader is tight, steering was tight, definitely a large step up from my current set up regardless of a problem with my tractor.




Edited for clarification.

This post was edited by JWinIndiana on 08/30/2023 at 08:33 am.
 
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