Tractor paint

Ted in NE-OH

Well-known Member
I think enamel paint is somewhat tolerant to having gasoline spilled on it whereas Lacquer paint is not tolerant to gasoline Is that true? I so how do I tell what kind of paint a spray can is?
 
You are correct. Lacquer is not a friend to gasoline.
Enamel with a bit of hardener in it is the way to go.
Your local paint shop could mix some for you in a fairly large sized rattle can.
Check with them.
 
(reply to post at 15:19:44 1 2/09/23)

Times two with Ted on the hardner, it makes for a durable shiny finish that is UV resistant as well .
Be sure to wear a respirator though , some paint suppliers don't mention its health dangers .
Primer is really critical , an etch primer on raw metal combined with hardened enamel will last for decades .
 
Consider the economics of spray can paint. They normally contain four ounces of paint. So if a spray can costs $10, that translates to a cost of $320 per gallon.
 
Neither enamel or lacquer is tolerant to gasoline. In an area where gas is frequently spilled you would be better off using an automotive urethane but that doesn't come in a rattle can. You would either need to get a sprayer or have someone apply the paint.
 
The cheap tractor paint I used from RK has a hardner and it is not gasoline tolerant. You may want to consider applying a clear coat too.

Today's modern paints have a one step base coat clear coat paint.
 
Hi Ted, Sometimes I wonder why my life experiences are a 180 from what gets posted here by people I respect but 23 years ago I did a 1rst class nut and bolt restoration on an Allis A and 4 others see' since. I used the best 2 part PPG top coat money could buy over top of DP40 epoxy primer and two part surfacers where needed all applied per the P sheets. When hand cranked and choked to start gasoline will dribble out of a drain in the air horm. This creeps up the sides of the air horn and wrinkled and removed the paint from the carb I could not keep paint on that area or the pan rail below it. Painted it 2 or 3 times. At a show a fellow said go to NAPA and get a spray can of black lacquer. Get rid of all the old paint, bead blast is best, put it back together and paint it with lacquer. If it doesn't work here is my card, let me know and I'll pay for the paint., 22 years later here is that somewhat dirty carburetor, almost as good as the day it was painted. Buy a can and spray a odd piece of something with it and a few hours later put gasoline on it, dunk it in gas. spray cleaner on it, none of it will soften or lift the lacquer. Because this has worked on 4 restorations all over 8 years old its the same deal now, if Im wrong send me an email and a bill with postage and I will pay for it.
cvphoto168232.jpg
 
Something else you can do is to bake the paint on after it dries for a little bit. I bought a toaster oven at a resale shop for a few dollars. I used it when I restored my old Firebird. Used it for all kinds of brackets and bolts.
 


Acrylic enamel is way more durable than old school alkyd enamel. True it is 2x the money, but 1/8 the money of regular automotive paint.
 
I don't remember the brand. I've slept since I painted them about 15 years ago.

The paint around the gas cap is reacting to gasoline.

Not 100% sure if you can clear coat over the cheap implement paints.

I would recommend buying more modern paints used on cars that have a one step base coat and clear coat mixed in one paint.

Of course you will need to prime with the approved primer for the modern paints.
 
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