Tractor Starter issue

[sbaugh1964]

My 2N recently had a tune-up, new harness, new plugs, distributor and coil, ignition switch and resistor (less than 20 hours of use since tune-up). Everything was working fine without any issues but I went out to start it after a short break (3-4 hours) and it won't start. There is no clicking, just silence. The battery is a 6 Volt and is fully charged so the system is charging the battery. At this point, the only thing I can think of is the starter (cut off) switch which was replaced 3 years ago is bad. At the time the cutoff was replaced, I was told that the cutoff switch can go without any warning, is this true? Is there a way to determine if the starter is bad?

Regards,

Stuart

 

[Bruce (VA)]

What is a starter cut off switch? The
neutral safety switch? Solenoid?
75 Tips

 

[HFJ]

stuart, the clicking u refer to is the sound made by a solenoid when the battery is low. a 2N did not use a solenoid, so unless someone has reworked the starter setup, u shouldn't have one, and therefore won't hear that clicking.

a problem with the charging circuit should not manifest itself that quickly. if your battery was fully charged when u started the tractor, then, assuming you're not working with your lights on, it should be good for a few uses on that battery before the lack of charging lowers it down to the point it won't do anything.

my first suggestion would be to get a charger on that battery and see what its charge state actually is.

 

[sbaugh1964]

(quoted from post at 11:58:29 06/25/18)
stuart, the clicking u refer to is the sound made by a solenoid when the battery is low. a 2N did not use a solenoid, so unless someone has reworked the starter setup, u shouldn't have one, and therefore won't hear that clicking.

a problem with the charging circuit should not manifest itself that quickly. if your battery was fully charged when u started the tractor, then, assuming you're not working with your lights on, it should be good for a few uses on that battery before the lack of charging lowers it down to the point it won't do anything.

my first suggestion would be to get a charger on that battery and see what its charge state actually is.

The battery is fully charged at 6.4 volts and has 640 cold cranking amps (tested).I have voltage across the ignition, resistor, ammeter and to the coil and the pigtail.

 

[sbaugh1964]

There's a starter (button) on the transmission that is connected to a starter switch. Above the starter switch, there is a cutout relay.

Stuart

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 16:04:23 06/25/18)
There's a starter (button) on the transmission that is connected to a starter switch. Above the starter switch, there is a cutout relay.

Stuart

hort across the two terminals on the starter switch

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

I suspect you have a bad wiring issue. No starter click indicates a possible dead battery, so saying it was 'fully charged' means nothing unless it has been tested to be good under load. Is it a GP-1 6V unit or a 'deep cycle' or golf cart style? We need so much more information to help better diagnose your root cause issues. You replaced a lot of parts all at the same time. How was the tractor running prior to doing this? If indeed a 2N model, then you would originally have a 6-V/POS GRN system as did all Ford vehicles up to mid-late 50's. All post early 1940 9N's and all 2N models (except wartime model) used the front mount distributor, a 1-wire starter with NO solenoid on the starter, a round can cutout -behind the dash, using a 1-wire/3-brush A circuit design type generator with 11.5 AMP output. Also, all 9N's and 2N's used a 3-speed (forward plus reverse) transmission. Realize just because you have a 6-volt battery does not mean the system is wired correctly. The 'starter switch' is the button on the top shifter cover on the 2N, on the dash on early 39-40 9Ns til s/n 12500, and are two different buttons. Gotsta know the difference when buying parts. After s/n 12500 1940 9Ns and all 2Ns used the p/n 9N-11450-B Starter Switch (button) and, this is important to know as it gets often confused, the starter SOLENOID is a completely different part, first used on the 8N models. Part of the confusion comes from Ford too as the solenoid and the starter buttons are listed with the same basic part number -11450. The 9N-11450 are starter switch buttons, and the 8N-11450 is the starter solenoid. Ford realized their error with the 8N and renamed the starter switch button as p/n 8N-11500. This was not standard operating procedure. They should have kept the starter switch button with the basic '11450' part group number for the 8N. Just by adding the 8N prefix would then identify it as such. Moving on, did you replace the distributor unit completely or rebuild it? If new, did you just take it out of the box and install it? Original Ford parts were designed to be rebuilt over and over and the best way to go nowadays rather buying any new Cheena built parts. Is the resistor the original Ballast type? Is the generator working correctly and wired correctly? As mentioned, you need to get battery tested then go thru the wiring 100% and while it is removed. The cutout circuit and the starter switch button are TWO DIFFERENT animals. Here is the original 9N/2N wiring schematic/diagram taken from the Service Manual. If you don't have the essential manuals, we suggest you start there. Also, do not start swapping out or buying any more new parts until the true root cause is determined. If you have the original distributor, rebuild it or if you can't, send it to me and I will. A Master Parts Catalogue and I&T F-04 manual would be real handy right about now... ; > )

Tim Daley(MI)