Tractor won't start

Steve in PA

New User
My 8N is not starting after the winter. I checked and the spark seems weak and I am working on that (12 V at top of coil, new spark plugs, checking points). But
also I noticed that gas is dripping from the bottom of the Zenith carburetor after trying to start it. Does that mean the carburetor has a problem also?
 
Steve.........you done FLOODED yer carbie, that is WHY its drippin'. Replace yer FLOODED sparkies; we recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025". Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry in HOT runnin' engine, one atta time and save'm fer the NEXT time (and there will be a next time) Learn HOW to start yer engine; ignition ON, 1/3-throttle, 2 rumpa-rumpas and a QUICK pull on yer spring loaded choke. Should gittcha started. .......the amazed Dell
 
" Does that mean the carburetor has a problem also? "

No.

It means you flooded it.

First, replace the plugs. You flooded it, they're fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner.

Next, Put your battery on a charger. (see tip # 60)

You need a strong battery to:

1. Close the solenoid

2. Spin the starter

3. Engage the bendix

4. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking.

In addition to charging the battery, chances are you need to clean all the grounds, to include the mating area between the starter & the block.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.

Next, make sure you have a good spark & fuel.

There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to do it. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air, so that's why you need to use an old spark plug with the gap opened to 1/4". Or, a store bought plug checker. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running.

The usual cause of gas dripping out of the carb throat is operator error.

While each N has its own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is a gravity fuel system on a low compression engine; it is easily flooded by too much choke.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.
75 Tips
 
Pulling out the choke gives you a richer mixture. So, you could have either a fuel or spark problem.

A carb out of adjustment, a dirty carb, dirty/old gas, water in the gas, restricted flow, or a vacuum leak.

Probably 90% of "needs choke to run" " excessive choking at start-up" problems are fuel related, but do not rule out ignition problems, contrary to what others may tell you. I’ve had that very same problem before w/ a rebuilt carb, fresh fuel & good flow & a tight manifold.......and it was a spark problem. But, that was unusual. Just check the likely fuel problems first.
75 Tips
 
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