Trailer Decking Question

tmking66

Member
I've got a source for some oak boards that are at a very good price. I need to replace my equipment trailer deck. Problem is the boards are just q inch thick. Could they be doubled (use 2 boards stacked) for the deck? Would this be weaker than a solid 2 inch board?
 
2X? lumber is 1-1/5" thick. "4 quarter" is actual 1 inch (4 quarters of an inch), so if the lumber actually measures 1" two layers with an offset lap of 50% of width is stronger. If it is glued together with PL-400 or equivalent, it will be much stronger. Jim
 
I'll be using the one inch boards then and overlapping them. I'm getting these red oak boards for .28 a board foot so as long as it's going to be strong enough it's a great deal.
 
Order some Ruff-Tec boards tung and grouve 1.5X7.5 and never replace them again. I have stock truck and trailer I put them in in the early 90's and Gooseneck brand trailer I ordered with them in 2002.
 
Run one straight and the second layer at an angle or crosswise and forget the glue. What is the crossmember spacing? At 16" or less 1" oak will hold most smaller tractors like the m farmal and such.
 
Most of the cross members are right at 16. It's a deck over trailer and there is one section where they are 20 inches apart over the wheels. My tractor is not small. It's a Massey Ferguson 290 so I'm not comfortable with just one inch of oak.
 
I would use something like 5/4 or five quarter since it is a heavier tractor . this would keep your empty weight down with more strength for the tractor. I like to see 12 inch on center cross members. Stronger with less chance of a front tire falling through between the cross members. Other wise I would plank it under the tires when loaded. Which is a pain since you always have to add the planks with each tractor loading. I would not laminate them without gluing them to keep the moisture out from between the plies. They willl rot out faster in plies with no glue between them.
 
Most of the cross members are right at 16. It's a deck over trailer and there is one section where they are 20 inches apart over the wheels. My tractor is not small. It's a Massey Ferguson 290 so I'm not comfortable with just one inch of oak.

I would use something like 5/4 or five quarter since it is a heavier tractor . this would keep your empty weight down with more strength for the tractor. I like to see 12 inch on center cross members. Stronger with less chance of a front tire falling through between the cross members. Other wise I would plank it under the tires when loaded. Which is a pain since you always have to add the planks with each tractor loading. I would not laminate them without gluing them to keep the moisture out from between the plies. They willl rot out faster in plies with no glue between them.
I am going to glue them to keep moisture between the layers down. The boards are 1 and an eighth thick so two layers will give me 2 and a quarter inches of oak. I figure if I have to replace it sooner than if it was thicker boards I'm getting it so cheap I can replace it 3 or 4 times for the cost of single 2 inch thick layer of boards.
 
I've got a source for some oak boards that are at a very good price. I need to replace my equipment trailer deck. Problem is the boards are just q inch thick. Could they be doubled (use 2 boards stacked) for the deck? Would this be weaker than a solid 2 inch board?
White Oak would be much better then Red Oak.
 
If it stays outside in the weather, red oak will not last as well as white oak.
 
I agree but white is going to cost me $3.50 a board foot. I'm getting the red oak for .28 a board foot. That's $1000 vs less than a hundred
 
If 2 plies have to be glued up like plywood to keep water out of the middle of the plies to avoid rot, then that is a solid layer of glue over the whole trailer. I see bookoo bux worth of glue for that. So much for the good price of red oak. Cheaper to keep a tarp over it.

2 layers of red oak with overlapping seams, perpendicular, or at an angle without glue would outlast my lifetime. Putting down some torx head screws (like on decks) will keep it tight enough to keep some water out.

At the price you quoted, buy enough to do the trailer twice and save the rest.
 
I use red oak and coat it every year with used motor oil. A paint roller with a long handle makes the job easy. After the deck had dried, the first time it took 4 gallons of oil, in multiple coats on my 20 foot. Look at Zoro on line for the glue, cheapest place I've found to buy water proof Titebond glue by the gallon.
 
I'll be using the one inch boards then and overlapping them. I'm getting these red oak boards for .28 a board foot so as long as it's going to be strong enough it's a great deal.
If by overlapping you mean each top board directly over a lower board that could work. The key is that they stay glued or as Ct guy posted they will rot out quickly
 
Is there any Amish in your area? I recently got white oak planks 2” x 7” @16ft long from an Amish sawmill for about 1/4 the price of what a local “English” mill wanted for like material. I replaced red oak that had been on the trailer for 14 years. I typically had put used motor oil on it every other year and the trailer sat outside frequently. The red oak was getting quite soft in places. After letting the new white oak decking dry a bit more after six months I have soaked it with a couple coats of transmission fluid. I don’t expect I’ll need to replace it in the remaining time I plan to keep the trailer. Just my 3 cents worth.
 
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I think you are wasting your time using a less than ideal wood and thickness. I had to replace the deck on my trailer a couple years ago and went through a similar debate. Locust, rough sawn of some kind, etc. Eventually I just bought 2" PT and used that.
 
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