Well, I've used it before but in 2 in thick boards and it lasted for 13 years. My question was not about types of wood but about the structural strength of 2 one inch boards vs one 2 inch thick board.I would not bother with red oak.
Well, I've used it before but in 2 in thick boards and it lasted for 13 years. My question was not about types of wood but about the structural strength of 2 one inch boards vs one 2 inch thick board.I would not bother with red oak.
Not only is white oak stronger for this application, it also doesn't rot nearly as fast.White Oak would be much better then Red Oak.
The $3.50 per board foot sounds like a select kiln dried price. Find a sawmill with a lower grade green white oak, should be less. Still more than $0.28 per foot, but closer to $1.00.I agree but white is going to cost me $3.50 a board foot. I'm getting the red oak for .28 a board foot. That's $1000 vs less than a hundred
Is it a $900 price difference than red oak? That's what I'm looking at with prices. Red oak will cost me $90 for the wood. White oak will cost me $1050 for the wood.Not only is white oak stronger for this application, it also doesn't rot nearly as fast.
I've looked. That's all I have been able to find within a reasonable distance. If I could find white oak for $1 a foot I would do that in a heartbeat. Sawmills that have been in business all my life are now shutdown. I guess because the economy is doing so greatThe $3.50 per board foot sounds like a select kiln dried price. Find a sawmill with a lower grade green white oak, should be less. Still more than $0.28 per foot, but closer to $1.00.
A 5 gallon bucket of Titebond wood glue is $150. Hardly "bookoo bux." Still way cheaper than white oak.If 2 plies have to be glued up like plywood to keep water out of the middle of the plies to avoid rot, then that is a solid layer of glue over the whole trailer. I see bookoo bux worth of glue for that. So much for the good price of red oak. Cheaper to keep a tarp over it.
2 layers of red oak with overlapping seams, perpendicular, or at an angle without glue would outlast my lifetime. Putting down some torx head screws (like on decks) will keep it tight enough to keep some water out.
At the price you quoted, buy enough to do the trailer twice and save the rest.
Two layers laminated will be stronger than a single layer of the same material of the same thickness.Well, I've used it before but in 2 in thick boards and it lasted for 13 years. My question was not about types of wood but about the structural strength of 2 one inch boards vs one 2 inch thick board.
Ok. I was thinking of caulking gun tubes of construction adhesive like liquid nails.A 5 gallon bucket of Titebond wood glue is $150. Hardly "bookoo bux." Still way cheaper than white oak.
I agree, and if money were no object we wouldn't be having this discussion. But, my economy IS NOT doing great in spite of what the news media keeps telling us. So, if I can save several hundred dollars, be safe, and have a deck that will last 10 years with some care then that's where I need to be.Always heard, a job worth doing, is worth doing right. Your trailer, cut corners if you wish. Have built enough trailers and refloored enough trailers that i personally would use better wood and be done. One other saying comes to mind, you get what you pay for!
make sure its Titebond III as its the only one water proof. looks like $30/gal depending on where you get it. looks like a gallon covers 250 square feet at 6mil thickness according to their info.A 5 gallon bucket of Titebond wood glue is $150. Hardly "bookoo bux." Still way cheaper than white oak.
I would go the two layers in a heart beat. will be strong enough. price out glue like PL400 or similar and you will need a good bead on all four edges and bolt together, ads cost so factor that in. if it was me I would make the bottom board 1/4 inch narrower than the top. glue and screw/bolt them before installing. when installing make them as tight as possible and when they shrink that little bit and leave a crack the water will drip off the top one and not touch the bottom one. then make sure you do as some suggested, lots of used oil on top of deck. I am amazed how long my semi deck lasted with oil compared to no oil.I agree, and if money were no object we wouldn't be having this discussion. But, my economy IS NOT doing great in spite of what the news media keeps telling us. So, if I can save several hundred dollars, be safe, and have a deck that will last 10 years with some care then that's where I need to be.
The AC2 boards on my trailer lasted about 11 years.I've got a source for some oak boards that are at a very good price. I need to replace my equipment trailer deck. Problem is the boards are just q inch thick. Could they be doubled (use 2 boards stacked) for the deck? Would this be weaker than a solid 2 inch board?
I use red oak and coat it every year with used motor oil. A paint roller with a long handle makes the job easy. After the deck had dried, the first time it took 4 gallons of oil, in multiple coats on my 20 foot. Look at Zoro on line for the glue, cheapest place I've found to buy water proof Titebond glue by the gallon.
Dumb question: Does rubberized asphalt driveway sealer work as a trailer bed coating? Something like https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jetcoat-5-Gallon-Asphalt-Sealer/5013264041, or a maybe a roll on pickup truck bed liner product?I've got a source for some oak boards that are at a very good price. I need to replace my equipment trailer deck. Problem is the boards are just q inch thick. Could they be doubled (use 2 boards stacked) for the deck? Would this be weaker than a solid 2 inch board?
You are absolutely wrong about the added strength. Look at old floors in factories and barns for reference.Two layers laminated will be stronger than a single layer of the same material of the same thickness.
Others have said to lay the second later crosswise... Adds ZERO strength and just gives water more places to sit.
Glue, or just saturate the boards with used engine oil where they will contact.
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