Transmission fluid questions

[Dober_paw]

Drained my '52 8N transmission today - last done in 2017 and heaven knows when before I acquired her in 1991. It was a rather nasty milky creamy coffee color. Tractor is used for mowing - about 50hr per year. Hydraulics "work" but are not used much and when used they do leak down slowly. So the questions: (Qu.1) 3 drain plugs: I found a TimPloughnman post that said drain from the back forward - ah - I didn't. How bad was that?? (Qu.2) when I removed the rear plug nothing came out. Somewhat fortuitously I went back and poked my little finger in the hole - dislodged a lump of black sludge and produced a stream of the milky creamy coffee color fluid - ah - can I just refill? (Qu.3) I intend to simply refill and continue dumb and happy - but for grins what is the correct "flushing" alternative? - note I really don't want to get into dropping and R&R-ing the pump - that'll be for the next owner.

 

[Non-farmer]

1. not a problem

2. yes

3. diesel

 

[Dober_paw]

Thanks! Sorry - Can you expand on 3-Diesel? Presumably pour some in (how much?) then run around/operate a bit (??) then drain diesel&crud and then flush (with what? and how much? and how often?) before refilling with new fluid? If it's relatively quick/simple I'll consider it - just don't want to get into a mission creep situation! What's the downside of leaving traces of diesel in the system? Thanks!

 

[showcrop]

I flush with diesel using a Sure shot. Google it. Once every 25 years. remove each drain plug once the flow becomes a slow drip. Use a quart per chamber. Understand that the milky oil was not a problem for the first fifteen years of the tractor's life because it was getting enough use to get the oil hot enough, for long enough, often enough to evaporate the moisture out. If where you live you get dew on the grass in the morning you are also getting moisture added to your oil, even if it is always kept under cover.

 

[Dober_paw]

Thanks for the info/advice. Scrolling through the archives it seems that diesel flush would get out more milky goo but wouldn't touch the crud. (technical terms?). So having drained overnight I simply buttoned her up and refilled. Dropping the pump will be a whole different game for another day (or two).

 

[showcrop]

Thanks for the info/advice. Scrolling through the archives it seems that diesel flush would get out more milky goo but wouldn't touch the crud. (technical terms?). So having drained overnight I simply buttoned her up and refilled. Dropping the pump will be a whole different game for another day (or two).

Did you check out the Sure shot? the stream is not big but at 120 PSI it WILL move the crud that you can get it pointed at.

 

[OldBlue61]

Did you check out the Sure shot? the stream is not big but at 120 PSI it WILL move the crud that you can get it pointed at.

I agree! I picked up a cheapy from Harbor Freight and it workd wonders cleaning up mine!

 

[Dober_paw]

I can see that it would certainly work - but - <crud that you can get it pointed at> was my issue. For various reasons I wasn't prepared to start mission creep and opening up other access points and I didn't see that it would be much use up through 2 large drain holes or down the filler. But certainly if I ever plan to do the job properly (ah, did I really just say that?) then yes Sure Shot would be a worthy tool. Thanks.

 

[Ray,IN]

I flush with diesel using a Sure shot. Google it. Once every 25 years. remove each drain plug once the flow becomes a slow drip. Use a quart per chamber. Understand that the milky oil was not a problem for the first fifteen years of the tractor's life because it was getting enough use to get the oil hot enough, for long enough, often enough to evaporate the moisture out. If where you live you get dew on the grass in the morning you are also getting moisture added to your oil, even if it is always kept under cover.

I googled sure shot and resulted in this: https://sureshot.com/products/sure-shot-stick-pack

 

[Mad Farmer]

When I got my N the tranny/hyd was a milky mess.

I ran it until hot then let all 3 cases drain until not dripping. I put in 2.5-gal Ford spec hyd oil and 2.5 gal of diesel. Started it up and cycled the 3-pt a few times then ran it up and down my long driveway, drained it again, and manually lifted the 3-pt arms a few times. Let drip overnight. Refilled with Ford spec oil. Still clear after 30 years.

Check/replace the boot on the shifter. That is a major point where water can get inside, especially if run or left outside in the rain.

If you want to spray down the insides a cheap 2-gal pump sprayer with diesel will work after the 1st draining. You can cobble together various tubes/hoses to fit the sprayer.

Through the filler hole and if you want to remove the center side cover where the dipstick fits into.

 

[Jim.ME]

I googled sure shot and resulted in this: https://sureshot.com/products/sure-shot-stick-pack

Try this link.

Sure Shot Sprayer

 

[HarryVanderpool]

As far as I can determine, once moisture is in the gearcase, there is no avenue for evaporation out of the gearcase. no matter how long or hot the tractor is run. There is no vent of any consequence. The only path to removing moisture is regular gear oil changes. Engine oil is a different story.

 

[showcrop]

As far as I can determine, once moisture is in the gearcase, there is no avenue for evaporation out of the gearcase. no matter how long or hot the tractor is run. There is no vent of any consequence. The only path to removing moisture is regular gear oil changes. Engine oil is a different story.

There are plenty of ways in and out for moisture laden air. Your moisture situation is normal. We have all been dealing with it for many years.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

There are plenty of ways in and out for moisture laden air.

Where can moisture evaporate out?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Where can moisture evaporate out?

Egress is not the problem. Emulsified water simply does not evaporate or boil off.

TOH

 

[Non-farmer]

Where can moisture evaporate out?

If, as TOH says, it doesn't, then this is academic. But if it could, the first place that comes to mind is the spot many blame for it getting in to begin with - the shifter boot. I can't speak for anyone else's N, but the boot on mine makes a fine rain cover, but is no more airtight than an umbrella.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Water can make its way into the case at the shifter boot and draft spring rod entry point. The only other opening is the dipstick which should have a small cap.
NONE of these points are going to have sufficient air flow as to clear out hot moist air IMHO.