Trucks, Trailers, and hitches...long post.

[Casey in Ky]

I've got a half ton Chevy with an V-5 EAZ-LIFT hitch, bolted to the frame. It's rated at 500lb tongue/5000lb trailer or, if I'm understanding right, with a weight distirbution hitch(not real for sure what that is) 1000lb tongue/ 10,000lb trailer. My receiver and ball is a Reese rated 600lb/6000lb.

I'm looking at buying a car hauler, either a 6'10 by 18ft 7000lb(2 3500lb axles)or a 6'10 by 16ft 10,400lb(2 5200lb axles). The rig is gonna be haulin' a Ford 4830(acording to external_link it weighs 6500lbs...but I don"t beleive it, think it's more like 5500lbs) with a Kunh GMD66 that weighs about 1000lbs. The tractor also has a bushhog loader on it, but it can always come off, although I'd prefer not taking it off.

Now anyway I see it, the truck is overloaded. The hitch is overloaded without a weight distribution hitch(still not for sure what this is), and the smaller trailer is overloaded if you account for the weight of the trailer. Now the trailer "salesman" says the truck, hitch, and 7000lb trailer are fine for what I'm wanting them for, but I don't trust any salesman, period.

Now I've drove the truck way overloaded before with payload, and as long as it doesn't handle much different with the trailer, I think I could manage with it. But my knowledge of hitches and trailers is lacking. If I'm overloading the hitch and trailer, how much can you get away with, or is that just a completly stupid question that I need to be beat for even asking?? Now I'm not talking about trailering down the interstate at 75mph, I'm talking about staying in county, moving from small hayfield to small hayfield on the backroads. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Man I'm long winded tonight...

Casey

 

[Anonymous-0]

I dont think Id pull a trailer and a ford 4630 around with a half ton truck, escpially any half ton from 2000 on up.

 

[ericlb]

i wouldnt do it, your way overloaded with a half ton pickup hooked to all that tractor, you may well be able to pull it with your engine, but the whole rest of the truck is not made for that much weight the axle bearings and suspension as well as brakes will be way beyond their design limits, a weight distributing hitch is one like use on bumper pull r/v's it has 2 extra arms hooked beside the hitch ball these arms go back to the trailer toung and when snaped over center like in a chain binder they transfer part of the hitch weight to the front axle of the towing vehicle, but again you need a heavier duty truck to haul all that

 

[John B.]

Be sure to get a truck that has a towing package, the brakes and drive train are different for this application, the size of the tires on the truck will also affect the electronic brake system on the newer trucks. The system is programmed for certian size tires. I'm a little off the subject but not many people think of or even know that.

 

[Casey in Ky]

Guess I should have mentioned that it's a 1995 short wheelbase, 4wd half ton. Either wai I guess it looks like I just don't have enough @$$ to do my haulin'. I've had almost 2 ton of sand on it before...but neither me or the truck liked it very much...

 

[ramblineagle]

that tractor and equipment that you want too haul will weigh upwards of 8,000lbs, get your self a goose neck trailer rated for 14,000lbs. you can put as much or as little weight on the towing vechile as you want. make sure that you have all brakes in top working condation, and you should not have any problems hauling the equipment.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

You need a 3/4 ton truck

 

[wijim]

you will not like the short wheelbase pulling that much wieght not safe.

 

[fixerupper]

It's the pickup the hitch is bolted to that worries me. Get a 3/4 ton. It'll have heavier axles,wheel bearings, frame, springs and maybe heavier brakes.

The neighbor tried 'updating' a 1/2 ton Chevy with heavier springs, hitch etc. so that he could handle heavier loads. After spending thousands on trannys, U joints, rear gears and axle bearings he finally traded it for a 3/4 ton and reduced his problems. Jim

 

[rvirgil_KS]

Do an internet search for "weight distribution hitch" It mounts at the coupler ball on bumper hitch. It becomes a pry bar lifting on the trailer hitch and transferring weight to the front wheels of tow vehicle.

With the 7000 lb. and 10,400 lb. weight ratings of the trailers don't forget to subtract the tare weight of the trailer to get the actual carrying capacity.

 

[louis110]

You know that your insurance doesn't have to pay one red cent if you get into an accident while pulling past the capacity or your truck. Four Wheeler had a really good article about this- and towing in general- in their january issue.

 

[rustyj14]

Pennsylvania will give you a ticket if they find you hauling that load on a short wheel-base, light duty pickup! Thats if they get to you before you get pushed off a high steep hill, by the load on the back! Its like sending a boy out to do a man's job! I'd sure hate to look in my rear-view mirror and see that load pushing you faster and faster down hill, behind me! Pure Folly!
The load equalizing hitch must be installed for towing travel trailers, tent trailers if they are the bigger ones, and/or "luggage " trailers, especially the large ones.
Somebody in this section has informed you correctly about load equalizing hitches. Any camper sales place will give the in fo, or you can stop at a dealer, and ask. Google "Camping World" and pick their brains. They have all the info.
but, let me say this: The anti-sway device you buy ahould be much bigger than the little sliding type that you just tighten it up with a little "L" shaped handle! They are ok for a small tent trailer, but not for the heavy stuff you want to haul!
Have you seen the occasional half-ton pickup, bent up in the middle, after the load shifted, or the trailer jack-knifed, or was hit from behind? Not pretty! Go for a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup, or something with a heavy frame!
I towed an eighteen foot travel trailer for around eight years and never had any trouble with sway, load, or anything else. I used our '78 Ford 3/4 ton pickup, with the 800x16.5 wheels and tires. Electric brake on the trailer, with the hand controller. Eight-hole wheels, heavy duty tires. A cap on the back, and a load of camping gear in it. A Reese load equalizing hitch with the Reese anti-sway equipment. The anti-sway deal cost a bundle, but we were safe as we could be!

 

[chvet73]

I agree with Traditional Farmer. I made the switch from 1/2 to 3/4 and there is a major difference it how it hauls.
I sure would not want to be near you when your hauling that with a 1/2 ton.

 

[RodinNS]

The 30 series Ford's weigh about 5000 # in basic form. If it's MFWD, start at 5500#. If it's got a cab, add another 1000#. If it's got loaded rear tires, add another 1500#. Add another 1500# for the loader and it's mounting system.
I'd not be surprised to see the tractor go 8-9000 # ALONE.
You'd be a bit light with the GMD66 too. It seems to me that the 77 was 12-1300. You'd probably shave ~50 # off for the 66.

You're in the 10000# net range there. That's a nice little load on a gooseneck.

I'd say if you had a moderately heavy tri/tag trailer with some length to it you could load it such that the trailer would carry the weight and load the truck as necessary. If you had brakes on all three axles on the trailer you'd get along with it, but you won't be going anywhere fast or easily.
Personally I'd drive the tractor or get a heavier truck/trailer.

Rod

 

[Don-Wi]

I'm not familiar with that model tractor, so I googled it. Just looking at the pictures, it's definately all that 6500 that tractor data says it is, and more. With a loader and that disc mower on the 3pt, you're probably pushing 10,000 lbs.

That's way too much to be pulling on a trailer behind your 1/2 ton short wheelbase truck.

Get atleast a 3/4 ton truck, or don't bother.

Donovan from Wisconsin

 

[Anonymous-0]

I would visit the state road authority website and find the requirements, I think you may be heading for a jackknife episode.