TW-35 pto slipping

[Richarson]

Here recently I bought a TW-35 series 2 to run a 3x4 baler I bought. Finally got around to getting both hooked up and ready to try. Got into the field and the first time the baler got to really working the pto would slip on the tractor. Just like you were cutting it off. Bought an online manual in the essence of having ir immediately. Kind of taking a crash course on the low pressure hydraulic system testing. Tapped into the port to check pressure and these are my results: 220psi at an idle warmed up, shift dual power and it dropped to 200 then recovers to 220 in about a second. Differential lock doesn t even make it drop, maintains 220. Brakes if you just barely put your foot on the pedal will make it drop to 160, but if you try putting the brakes to the floor they will drop then it recovers to 220, which was puzzling. But engaging the pto drops pressure to 160 and will not recover. Waiting on new filters, cleaned screen in dual power valve(some metal shavings). Pulled regulating valve and cleaned(seemed clean no issues but haven t been able to try tractor since, cut apart small filter under the assumption I was going to have a filter today and it was wrong).
I am currently guessing my pto control valve is leaking? Is that valve internal? Especially since the pressures before being warmed up it meets the requirements, until hot, and oil thinned enough to leak? Just don t know what my next step is? Manual is hard to follow in digital
Format? Any help? Bern? Reading your comments on problems you seem sharper then hell on these things.

 

[showcrop]

It is likely the PTO clutch pack seal.

 

[Bern]

Based on your pressure readings, you have an internal leak in your PTO circuit. Regardless of whether it's in the control
valve or the clutch pack, you're looking at a split between the transmission and the rear axle because it's all inside the
rear axle housing. My bet is that the leak is in the clutch pack rear support sealing ring area. It's also possible that the
friction material is starting to come apart on the clutch plates which is causing the clutch pack piston to move too far and
expose the seals. Either way, you're staring at a lot of work.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Ditto what Bern said, rear split is needed.

Just did one this winter, frictions had come apart and piston was moving too far out.

 

[Richarson]

How long did it take you? I ve never split one but I m confident I could do it. But contemplating taking it to a shop.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I think I charged 21 hours labor. I pull the cab because I find it easier, but it can be done by blocking the cab up and rolling the rear end out I just hate having to work underneath the cab.

 

[Bern]

In a properly equipped shop I could do that entire job in 10-12 hours total. But, I've split more TWs over the years than I
care to count, so if you've never done it before you can roughly double that.

I roll the engine and trans out from the front, leaving the cab in place. Rolling the rear out is very tough if the rear
wheels are heavily weighted and/or loaded with fluid.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I should have clarified my 21 hours labor was the complete hot/cold pressure test, steam clean, cab removal, steam clean again, pto clutch r&r, brake master rebuild, and new brake piston seals, as well as a few other things.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Forgot the tractor also had a full frame loader to remove/reinstall.

So just to split it and r&r the pto clutch with no other surprises Berns 10-12 hours sounds right.