U radiator removal.

[Duey C]

Anyone wish to share how to remove the radiator from a ‘50 UTS?
I like complicated things but I’m at a loss. It sure isn’t a Twin City.
Original? hoses are like iron, there’s a slow coolant leak somewhere and the water pump needs a new seal. The little housing behind the pump seal should come out for refreshing also, touch up the front end on the lathe and the new bushing and oil seal are waiting in a box.
Spent time using an LP UTU but didn’t have to work on it. Not that it needed work, it did the job at hand. Plowing and hay rack duty.
No, I don’t have a parts or operators manual yet.
No, I haven't measured the hoses yet either. Are they 1-5/8"? Have some of that left over from a Twin City project.
Thanks!

 

[molinegb]

Two bolts underneath in pedestal are main mounts. 6 recessed bolts on sides separate shroud along with grill.

 

[Duey C]

Thanks GB! I actually got all 6 recessed/countersunk bolts out. One needed cooking with the little torch then I was in like Flynn.
Don't forget about the light bracket bolts.
Access-2-2. If I hadn’t been so scared of melting solder on the rad, I would’ve cooked the light bracket bolts on our left with the little torch. They needed it and I broke them. I’ll plug-weld nuts on and go from there to get them out.
The red arrows try to show where the two bolts are holding the rad down. I found 'em! : - )
I think I’ll pressure wash the front end and see IF I can get some spray on the tops of the bolts. It won’t help but I’ll feel better.
If I can get the little torch inside the pedestal to cook the bolt heads, is it wise to try it?

 

[Duey C]

Fiddlesticks! The two 1/2 bolts can be dealt with once the rad is off.
B Broken. Just break these four 3/8 bolts on a ‘50 and the radiator comes right off. We can see the base casting has been broken for a long time.
39 red-nose. A ‘39 red-nose U perhaps uses eight 3/8 bolts like the ‘39 tirediron was/is working on for their club.
He was kind enough to take the pic for me in March.
B Crank pulley. Have you found the crankshaft pulley can be pried forward? The smaller pulley for the generator is in the way for two bolts.

 

[molinegb]

I never remove the 3/8 bolts. Just two 1/2 under rad. Crank nut has setscrew and threads off. Pulleys then come off.

 

[Duey C]

Thanks GB, I did a heat and beat on the two 1/2 nuts under rad after removing it and they're not coming loose right now. Maybe another day.
Crank nut probly still carries a TW or KE part number and is used all thru F/21-32.
The crank nut on a counter-clockwise engine is a mirror image.

 

[molinegb]

Thanks GB, I did a heat and beat on the two 1/2 nuts under rad after removing it and they're not coming loose right now. Maybe another day.
Crank nut probly still carries a TW or KE part number and is used all thru F/21-32.
The crank nut on a counter-clockwise engine is a mirror image.

Would be a KE part #. Don't remember. any TW/GE numbers used on a U.

 

[Duey C]

May I ask what the proper cam end play adjustment should be for a U?
The older Twin City KT's etc call for 1/2 turn out from snug.
This U was set at about 1/4 turn out so I set it there again. ?
I won't bore you fellas with details but I'm ready to install the new water pump seal.
New bushing, seal and gasket behind the pump.
For this tractor, a crowbar slid the pulley forward nicely after fighting the crank nut.
THEN you get at those two bottom bolts on the water pump body.