Unknown Electrical Part

[msgove]

I have a 1944 Ford 2N tractor that is currently not firing. We've tested each part from the battery forward and have concluded that the voltage is stopping at this part:

Unfortunately, I can't determine what part this is. It's shortly after the battery and ignition switch, but before the coil. It's installed to the frame, directly below the battery. It's not shown in the expanded electrical wiring diagram in the FO-4 manual (Fig. 177, page 119). It seems to be shown in Fig. F070A (page 47), but unfortunately not labeled.

Any thoughts?

 

[MN_2N]

That's your "Generator Cut Out Assembly" or sometimes called "cutout relay". It's basically a relay that closes when your battery voltage is lower then your generator voltage to allow the generator to charge up your battery. [i:0e9f400372]When the generator slows or stops the relay will open to prevent the battery from discharging through the generator. [/i:0e9f400372]
(Fixed that sentence.)


The cutout relay doesn't have any impact with your spark plugs not firing.

There's a wire that runs from your resistor block to the coil.

If you don't have any power at the terminal where the wire connects to the coil then that might be your problem (make sure the wire is good and clean the terminals at the coil and resistor block.

If power is getting to the coil but you still get no spark then the problem is either the coil, distributor, or spark plug wire.

Did you test any of the other spark plugs to see if any of them are firing?

 

[Dell (WA)]

msgove........thats the "infamous cut-out relay". It is NOT a voltage regulator. It disconnects the genny from the battery when the engine stops turning so you do not discharge the battery thru the genny windings.

Remember YOU are the voltage regulator. Adjust the 3rd-brush screw on the back of the 11-amp genny for about 5-amp charge when running at 1/3-throttle. Remember, unlike 12V alternators, 6V gennys do NOT charge at idle.

Iff'n yer havin' electrical problems, never hurts to "polarize" yer roundcan cut-out. Just "arc-spark" the 2-terminals together, engine OFF. I use a pair of pliers handle, but you can use bailin'warr iff'n you want. Simple, eh? You can re-polarize as many times as it takes to feel warm and fuzzy ...er... charged.

Unfortunately, many replacement cut-offs are NOT very reliable. There is a solid-state cut-off available$$$ Check the archives ........Dell

 

[36 Coupe]

Cut out does NOT open in overcharge condition.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 23:25:18 06/09/11) I have a 1944 Ford 2N tractor that is currently not firing. We've tested each part from the battery forward and have concluded that the voltage is stopping at this part:

Unfortunately, I can't determine what part this is. It's shortly after the battery and ignition switch, but before the coil. It's installed to the frame, directly below the battery. It's not shown in the expanded electrical wiring diagram in the FO-4 manual (Fig. 177, page 119). It seems to be shown in Fig. F070A (page 47), but unfortunately not labeled.

Any thoughts?

sgrove, in the several responses, you have received some incorrect information & some irrelevant information, but one important correct statement........that the cut out has nothing to do with ignition or starting or running............just battery charging/discharging.

 

[teddy52food]

You are right. The more it charges , the tighter it holds the points together. A voltage regulator cuts back when the battery gets full.

 

[R Geiger]

Do a google search for 2n ford wiring diagram. You will finda number of wiring diagrams that are much more usefull than the one in the FO-4 manual.

Don't worry about the cutout relay until you get it running. It may work just fine. The cut out relay has two jobs: 1: to connect the generator to the circuit to charge the battery, and 2: disconnect the generator from the circuit when the generator is not generating.

 

[msgove]

Thanks for all the direction. General consensus is that this part is NOT the problem.

We have already replaced the coil, so I don't believe it's that, but it could be the wires into the coil. We'll pull it apart more in the next couple of weekends and dig into this more.

This tractor came with the house we just bought, and while the previous owners kept it running, they didn't keep it in great shape. I'll probably end up taking the whole thing apart at one point or another in the upcoming year (if not just to be able to clean everything), and I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

 

[toad45678]

Be carefull about the new coil. If its tractor supply (china) chances are its bad. DONT ASSUME the new part is working. Check it out to be sure.