Update: '47 M Sleeve Pulling

[Ken Christopherson]

Well, everyone. Thanks to some great friends and a lot of good advice (& offers) from awesome forum members... I was able to get the sleeves out with my very own, brand new sleeve puller! #3 sleeve was a little stubborn, but #2 and #1 came out no problem. This morning I'll be heading back over to pick up the block to bring it in for boiling, and to drop off the valve kit that I received yesterday from YT. Looks good! Also received my rebuild kit with stepped head pistons a couple days ago from another vendor (couldn't pass up the price). Don't worry, though YT.. I'll be ordering much more parts from here in the future.

Photos are included of the sleeve puller, and as always... Episode 7 is ready and on YouTube (link below). It's a long one, so feel free to skip around. I have been getting more and more requests to record the entire procedure, so that is what I am doing. In dull areas of the videos, I speed them up to give more of a 'time lapse' feel. I hope that someone gains some knowledge as I know that I did. This was my first time using a sleeve puller, so I know I learned a few tricks as well. (The last time I pulled sleeves was with a bottle jack and a hammer)!

In case anyone needs a build reference in the future, here is how I constructed (with the guidance of some friends), a sleeve puller:

For a Farmall M block with 4" overbore sleeves:

1/2" x 2-1/2" x 14" flat stock. 3/4" hole punched through the center of two pieces. Stacked them together and welded them on the ends.
3/4"-10 threaded rod with 4 nuts (two tightened together up top as a jam nut, one above the plate on top to turn and draw the threads up, and one below the puck on the bottom of the sleeve).
1" thick puck machined from 4-3/8" round stock. Measured OD of the sleeve liner, minus .010. That was the larger diameter portion of the puck - this needs to slide through the bore of the block with the sleeve. Then measured the ID of the sleeve liner bore. Machined second step of the puck to this spec, minus .005-.010.
Used 4x4 wood blocks to space the puller from the block surface.
A abundant amount of grease/lubricant/PB Blaster.

Enjoy, everyone.. And stay tuned! Reassembly begins soon!!!!!

1947 Farmall M Episode 7

 

[EZ]

Very cool indeed.
Steady as she goes.
Can't wait for the rebuild process!

 

[michaelr]

I had a machine shop make me an exact setup of that sleeve puller. The ones I pulled out were dome top IH FireCrater pistions, still have them in a box. I also put in stepped head pistons. Fun to watch the progress as you post.

 

[PretendFarmer]

Nice job. I like that puller. I've always done it the hard way, one of these days I'll make a puller.
Too bad you couldn't drive an M with flat tops. You would see a noticeable difference in performance.

 

[D Slater]

This tip may help if you plan on working on that series engines in the future. Make the puck to fit thick wall sleeves on one side and thin wall on the other side. Thin wall side will also work for thick wall sleeves in a C-264. Hardly find any 3-7/8 size in a M or 4 inch in a C-264 now though.

 

[Ken Christopherson]

Good tip! I can always have my neighbor turn down the other side of the puck to pull the 3 7/8" sleeves. Glad you brought that up - a 2 in 1 tool!

 

[Ken Christopherson]

I am the same way - always done things the hard way. Just this morning I went to pick up the block to drop it off at the shop to have it boiled. Brought all hand tools and still had to pull the water jacket plate off - quite a few bolts. Didn't even think to grab my DeWalt impact with a 1/2" socket on the end. Lol! Still getting used to having these tools, and some I have had for 8-10 years.

I did have a 1940 M about 10 years ago. Don't know what pistons were in it though - never broke the engine open. Ran like a top when I got it so I cleaned it and painted it. Had to sell it though due to lack of space... Now wouldn't you know it. I've got the M at a buddy's house anyhow!

 

[Ken Christopherson]

I plan on keeping the pistons I pulled out of this motor as well (unless someone wants to buy them, but they aren't good for using anymore). At the very least they will look neat sitting on my workbench as a conversation piece.

 

[Ken Christopherson]

Sometimes I get a little excited, when I start making good progress. I gotta tell myself to SLOOOW DOWN once in a while. Lol. (As you will hear and see me do in the video).

I can't wait to hear this old girl BARK to life for the first time in who knows how many years... Looking promising so far!

 

[PretendFarmer]

(quoted from post at 16:39:40 03/17/16) Hardly find any 3-7/8 size in a M or 4 inch in a C-264 now though.

That's what I've seen around my area too. I rarely see a Farmall with stock size pistons if an overbore was available.

 

[f2355j]

Ken I'm enjoying the videos very much !! You are doing a great job. Make sure all the head studs are screwed all the way into the block, as sometimes they will turn out one or two turns when removing the nuts from the head. I take them out to make it easyier to clean the block surface and the counter boars. That may be overkill. I also run a bottoming tap in the holes to clean them as well as a die over the threads on the studs. Have you checked the cam bushings? I would replace them also as deep into this engine as you have already gone. Mark

 

[Ken Christopherson]

Glad you are enjoying the videos!

Cam bushings were tight, but since I am having the block hot tanked/put on a rotisserie they won't be any good. I've already got new ones sitting here in the box - forgot to mention that in the video.

I'll definitely make sure the studs are properly installed, and I will chase the threads as well to clean them up.

Stay tuned, there is more to come!

 

[Cory Schmidt]

Just a note, toss the sleeves in the freezer when you put them in... Cold makes them slightly smaller to make it a smidge easier. Did you make your puller long enough to use(in reverse) to help the pull the sleeves back in?

 

[Ken Christopherson]

Again, thanks for the tip! Yes, the threaded rod is plenty long to reach the bottom of the block to pull them into place if need be.

 

[PretendFarmer]

(quoted from post at 21:08:48 03/17/16) Just a note, toss the sleeves in the freezer when you put them in... Cold makes them slightly smaller to make it a smidge easier. Did you make your puller long enough to use(in reverse) to help the pull the sleeves back in?

I would recommend setting the freezer for its maximum setting the day before. But you need it close by. I've done installs like that. I froze the sleeve to -50F though. They drop right in at that temp but you literally have 10 seconds to get it in.

 

[David G]

You could pack the sleeves in dry ice.