Update 7- part 2

jd2cyl1943

Member
Location
Bemidji, MN
Here is the rest of the update. I accidently submitted the other before I was done. :oops:


Here is the stand that I made for the block because I have mentioned before that the cement blocks it was on fell apart.


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Now you will notice that there is a broken off stud. Do you have any advice on how to get it out without damaging the studs? Somebody on here advised me to leave them in so they would seal better. I just want to say thanks for the advice, but it didn't go well. I accidently hit it with the mallet.



Now just for fun! Who can guess what I have soaking in the bore?
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Condition
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12 spline John Deere B steel wheels for sale. Lugs are all tight and in good shape. No cracks that I see. No locking collars. $600 or trade for 10 spline steel wheels or Front steel with cash on my end.
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Two items: Never put concrete blocks sideways (holes must be up and down. The principle of a High school where I taught, Died under a car from crushed concrete blocks.
To make a sturdy stand, build it like a log cabin with every row alternating direction. This ties the support into a solid. Jim
 
Why not build yourself a good solid bench out of 4x4s
and planks. That is a pretty sketchy setup

there. I thought u had them pistons out long time ago.
And yes I was doing this same work at your age and
always was open for ideas. And my shop was in the
middle of the yard also under the big blue sky. When I
wanted to pull the engine out of my 1967 gmc 1/2 ton. I
had to dig two poles in the ground by hand and then build
a cross beam for the top to hook the chain hoist to. It
was actually a block and tackle. Nowadays all over head
equipment must be regularly inspected for safety. Back
then it was this will work . Plus I did not have even an air
compressor to use then. When u changed a tire and tube
it was pump it up by hand.
 
As for that broken stud , a mag drill would work good
but I know u have no such thing. Heating it and welding a
nut on the broken stud is another way. That should have
never happened if you would have found a round piece of
HARD Wood from a tree then wittle it to fit the bore
making sure it is couple inches higher than the studs. You
cant use a piece of 2x4 thinking that will work. Then u
go at it as hard as u can with that new hammer. As I said
before I use a post hammer because the head on it is
about the size of them pistons and works better than a
sledge hammer with a 2 1/2 inch head. Another way is to
use a hydraulic jack on them if u had a good stand built
with some ingenuity. Even thinking I would use my
hydraulic post pounder.
 
Take whatever you are soaking it with out of there and fill the cylinder up with plain old water. Wait till the water has soaked past the piston and it will pop right out
with a hit or two with a block of wood and mallet. That's how we do it all the time and never had one not come out. Better cross those blocks somehow or the whole
thing is going to tip over on you.
 
I had a milk cooler compresser pump that got water in it and the pump looked about like his block and I never could get the piston out. I don't know if a torch could have even gotten it loose. Gas line rusted a hole in and it pumped the water out of the coolant tank the milk cans sat in. That happened just a few days before the cows left so it sat a couple of years before i tried to get it apart. was going to say he would be lucky if he ever gets the pistons out of his block, even in pieces.
 

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