Update on Super A steering

[RandyB(MI)]

Well finally got friends Super A steering all tightened up. The sector shaft bearing was shot and the "C" clip on top of shaft was long gone. Whole shaft would have to go all the way up or down before it would turn steering arm. Spindle pegs were loose and tie rod ends all took a slight turn. New clip , bearing ,gasket , seal and filled it with red tacky grease , tightened up knee pegs and all is well. Has only about 1/8 turn play. Big change from changing lanes on rutty dirt road without moving wheel. Shaft keys were perfect. Ran beautiful and now drives same.

 

[Janicholson]

Thanks for the update. I had a feeling the bearing was toast and snap ring out. Jim

 

[EZ]

Good job!
Never heard of red tacky grease.
May I ask how much the snap ring cost. Last one I priced was $27Cdn!

 

[EZ]

(quoted from post at 18:40:30 03/27/16) Well finally got friends Super A steering all tightened up. The sector shaft bearing was shot and the "C" clip on top of shaft was long gone. Whole shaft would have to go all the way up or down before it would turn steering arm. Spindle pegs were loose and tie rod ends all took a slight turn. New clip , bearing ,gasket , seal and filled it with red tacky grease , tightened up knee pegs and all is well. Has only about 1/8 turn play. Big change from changing lanes on rutty dirt road without moving wheel. Shaft keys were perfect. Ran beautiful and now drives same.

Interested to know. Did you remove the front bolster, or did you just remove the axle and drop the bottom portion of the steering housing?

 

[RTR]

(quoted from post at 09:41:57 03/28/16) Good job!
Never heard of red tacky grease.
May I ask how much the snap ring cost. Last one I priced was $27Cdn!

I just went to the local hydraulic shop/machine shop down the road and got one for free. I always use 90 weight or 140 weight gear oil.....expecially when putting new parts and seals in. Using grease seems to be a bandaid fix for leaky seals and bad bearings.

 

[Janicholson]

In many cases the the use of a grease with Number O or number 1 viscosity rating and the tendency to be stringy like warm mozzarella cheese, is a better lubricant than
90wt. It does stay in the box better, but it is also superior in lubricity under high pressure (between gears) and on worm gear systems. Mobil 1 red Synthetic is great.
Jim

 

[RandyB(MI)]

I just dropped the axle down. Hate to disturb old radiators etc that aren't leaking.

 

[RandyB(MI)]

I think the snap ring was around $ 14. I got everything from local CIH for $ 75. I found a bearing here , a snap ring there and never did find the gasket even at Steiners so just decided to get it all where I knew they had it and if it wasn't right they had to eat it not me. My buddy was happy with the $ 75 and he helped me and labor was zero ( we are both retired ). The grease is Lucas "Red & Tacky". The stuff will string up from the tube a foot when you pull your finger out. Filled it in the top plug until it fell through the bearing and once bottom half was on, filled bottom half through side plug and then again through top. It has 4 tubes of snot in it. IMHO they used gear lube back then because it was cheap and they had nothing better, times change.

 

[EZ]

(quoted from post at 18:27:38 03/28/16) I just dropped the axle down. Hate to disturb old radiators etc that aren't leaking.

Sounds good. No sense going in deeper than you have to. Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.

 

[EZ]

Times do change.
Thanks again for the info.
These jobs all look big until the tools are actually moving. Ha.

 

[denglish]

(quoted from post at 18:27:38 03/28/16) I just dropped the axle down. Hate to disturb old radiators etc that aren't leaking.

I need to repair the steering on my Super A. I have about a half turn of free play in both directions. I'm curious about where you should support the tractor when you pull the front end off. Can you just put cribbing behind the clutch bell housing or do you need to directly support the engine? What is the best and safest way?

 

[Janicholson]

The oil pan is not good to lift/support the tractor. The bell housing has a tin cover at the front edge, but is solid behind
that. It will be fine if the cribbibg is wooden and stacked for wide based support. Jim

 

[EZ]

(quoted from post at 08:44:09 03/29/16)

(quoted from post at 18:27:38 03/28/16) I just dropped the axle down. Hate to disturb old radiators etc that aren't leaking.

I need to repair the steering on my Super A. I have about a half turn of free play in both directions. I'm curious about where you should support the tractor when you pull the front end off. Can you just put cribbing behind the clutch bell housing or do you need to directly support the engine? What is the best and safest way?

This is how I supported my 130. I was able to move the cherry picker away after the tractor was secure on the wood blocking.

 

[denglish]

Thanks EZ and Jim. I was thinking I might make a stand that bolts to the two pairs of diagonal holes on each side of the bell housing. I'm going to try to get through the summer with the current steering situation and then tear into it next Fall.