Update on the Case 930 Brake Disassembly

[pard]

Previously I was having a real hard time getting the brake assembly off the right side of my 930. Turns out someone _welded_ a washer onto the shaft to hold the brake in place. Got out an angle grinder and a dremel w/ a cutoff wheel and was able to get it off and cleaned up with only minimal damage. Best I can figure, they welded that washer on because the disk's teeth were totally worn out and they decided this was a better option than buying a new one... Tractor also came from the Mississippi flood plain, so no such thing as a hill, brakes are nearly worthless when you're driving a 10k tractor + implement at 5mph, pop the clutch and it comes right to a stop anyway.

So I got the rest of the assembly off, up to the most inner brake... which was welded... Not a washer this time, the actual brake was welded to the shaft.

Took me nearly three weeks and a handful of bits to get the disk off. No I've got about a 1/2" thick ring welded to the shaft. My issue is I no longer have a tool capable of getting into there and cleaning it up. The cut off wheel won't fit into the housing at all. The dremel is too big, bought one of those attachments that lets ya have the dremel body in one spot and then the dremel bits about three feet off. But now even that's too large to get in cause of the angle of attack.

I'm thinking I gotta pull the shaft out to finish cleaning it up. Wondering how big of a job that is and if I need to order some parts, like gaskets to replace the surely old and worthless parts in there already. Anyone know what I'm about to be getting myself into here? I found a guy on Youtube he mentions he did this, but only in passing, never found a video of him actually pulling the brake housing off and the shaft out.

 

[pard]

After consulting the manual (page S-44,45) I think I am going to avoid removing the shaft at all costs. I'm not too keen on splitting the tractor... :shock:

 

[pard]

Here's the old disk that was welded on.

And here is what is left. Shaft is covered in grease and metal shavings, so it looks a bit funny, but the problem is the metal ring at the bottom.

 

[jim_uny]

i would blow out with air & replace axle stub seals as well

 

[Cash4Toys]

Someone will know better than me, but I
doubt you could get the housing off that
shaft without getting it ground off first.
I dont have any idea what you have in
this, but seriuosly your in for a lot work
and money to get that useable. Lots of
work to get that shaft out, and even more
to assemble, what with the ring gear and
pinion meshing and the shaft bearing pre-
load. Around here one can find a 930 for
around a grand, off the farm, non-running,
I bought three for 500 a while back and
made one, dont know about where your at.
Maybe if you could another one with a bad
engine (if yours is good) you could make
one from two? Be a lot easier to do, just
check out the next one better. If the
clown screwed the brake up that bad, who
knows what else he did.

 

[ss55]

I suspect you will find more of these creative fixes every time you work on this tractor. As you have found, those will cost you much more time and money to trouble shoot and repair than on a tractor that has been properly maintained. How dedicated are you to keeping this tractor? Case 930's are good tractors for some things, but they are now very cheap to buy, I would cut my losses and look for another 930 in better shape.

 

[pard]

While not overly dedicated to the tractor, I have essentially $0 into the machine before parts and time for repairs. So far I've bought two new disks, a couple bushings, and maybe one other thing, so I'd estimate I have $70 into this tractor thus far. Someone else mentioned that you can get die grinder bits that are easily over 6" long and they are under $10 a bit, so I think I'm going to give that a shot.

Before taking the tractor I checked out the stuff I _could_ look into. Engine runs flawlessly. Transmission shifts fine, it's a bit sticky getting into R, but I've had worse. PTO runs fine, Draft-o-matic needs some work, and the hydraulic keeps pressure despite a leak on one of the lines. I don't know what's up with the wiring, but after tearing it all apart yesterday morning before finding out that I just needed to jump the solenoid with a screw driver, I don't think there is anything jumping out as "bad" with the wiring. Most of the "questionable" stuff seems to be because this tractor once had the cab hooked up to it and so there are remnants in the wiring from that.

I need a bigger tractor to make better round bales and to pull stumps. Figured this'll do that trick and I got it for free.