Used Homemade Log Splitter Help

buck2013

New User



I've got an older homemade log splitter that I have inherited, and instead of spending over $1,000 I am planning on making this one work again.

Anyone have any idea why my reservoir tank would have three adapter holes? (Believe it or not, I am almost 100% sure the hydraulic fluid tank is built inside under the cylinder in the beam, since the large hose attached to the bottom goes to the pump and the return comes out of the directional valve just above where the big hose is located. If you look at the picture I attached, there is a third hole, where a large pipe and fitting pointing up comes out directly above those other two places on the tank. Anyone know what that would be for? does it need to be there for a breather hole? Or perhaps I just need to plug it? Maybe was that a way the previous owner/builder used to fill it with oil?

I'm new to the world of homemade log splitters and Logg splitters in general for that matter, so any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Also got to figure out what size fittings and hoses I need to get for it. Hopefully my 65 year old dad and 65 year old uncle can help me with that, but am still grateful for that information to!

I've got a good idea of where I need hoses and where they connect except for this mysterious third outlet to the tank.

Thanks!

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The pipe nipple pointing up will probably need to be extended so it is the highest point in the system. ...It will be where hydraulic oil is added to the system.

The fill pipe should be capped with a breather, and installed so rain can not get in.

The oil should not be filled to the top of the fill pipe because the oil will expand as it gets heated from use. ...However, the cylinder rod must be extended when the system is filled to insure there is adequate oil in the system. ....If the system is overfilled, excess oil will be expelled as the cylinder rod is retracted.

It looks like you will also have to buy a hydraulic pump (get a 2-stage pump) and tires, if you don't have those.

I can't tell from your pics if the cylinder is double-acting and operates both directions hydraulically. ....If there is only one port on the cylinder, then the cylinder needs to be retracted with a spring.

1/2 Hydraulic hose should be sufficient for the work port to the cylinder.
 
thanks for the reply. the original pump is there, it jsut cant be seen in the pictures. Thanks alot for the input. Makes sense that top hole and pipe was made to fill the oil. And the cylinder is a two way hydraulic. There's a port on the front. Now just have to figure out the size of fittings for the cylinder.
 
The one on the rear of the cylinder looks like 1/2'' NPT (pipe thread). To make it easy to hook up hoses, I suggest you use a NPT to male JIC fitting on both ends of the cylinder. It looks like you have JIC fittings on the valve already. A lot of farm stores have premade hoses with JIC fittings installed, in various lengths, both male and female. Most easily found is the 1/2'' JIC female, also known as JIC 8. Look through a hydraulic catalog, such as Surplus Center's, to get an idea of what is available, and will fit your needs. steve
 
Since you said and the looks support the fact that it's a home brew accomplishment, like mine, It probably served a purpose in its previous use. I had an old riding lawn mower that was just sitting around and ordered some necessary parts from Northern Tool to turn it into a hydraulic pressure source with the normal log splitter valve. The actual splitter I built on an I beam, separate from the power source, and bought the cylinder and hoses off the www.

You only have one closed loop circuit providing power having an input receiving and an output sending. Directional valves just cycle this flow temporarily to an outside closed loop (the cylinder) and back to the holding tank.
 
That would be the fill and vent port. It must be vented as the oil level changes as the cylinder extends and retracts.

If it has been sitting open I would be concerned about contamination. Just for peace of mind I would disassemble everything and thoroughly as possible give it a good cleaning.
 
I assumed mine was unique shop-built but yours looks very similar to mine so that is a bad assumption. My cylinder was not double acting but spring return instead. The spring was inside the cylinder. If yours is the same and you have to replace the seals, have a care about disassembling it cause that spring can hurt. I couldn't get it to stop leaking so I replaced the cylinder with a double acting one. Good luck. Michael
 
Have the same one. Long one is a fill/vent. Mine is reduced down to a radiator petcock. Take it out to fill, open to vent when using.
 
Before you spend any money, it might be worth your time to add up the cost of all the parts this unit will need and compare that to the price of a new splitter. Include the value of your labor to disassemble, clean, assess, acquire all the parts and reassemble. The engine may need a new carburetor or carb rebuild kit to get it running well again.

Have fun on your new project.
 
Usually the filter is on the low pressure return side of the system. The filter failing is normally caused by blockage in the line beyond it to the tank, or could be caused by overfilling a poorly vented tank.
 
Before you spend any money, it might be worth your time to add up the cost of all the parts this unit will need and compare that to the price of a new splitter. Include the value of your labor to disassemble, clean, assess, acquire all the parts and reassemble. The engine may need a new carburetor or carb rebuild kit to get it running well again.

Have fun on your new project.
I never figure the value of my time on mental health projects.
 
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