Using epoxy metal

Bonnan

Member
I need to fit a 2" bronze bushing into a somewhat wallowed out bore in a steel casting (tractor part). Thinking of using epoxy metal adhesive/filler such as Loctite 680 or Permetex product? Have any of you guys had experience using these epoxies? Normally I would machine the wallowed hole oversize and install a steel plug with the correct bore but present circumstances don't allow it. If it lasts a year: I'll be happy.
 
Saw a product called Belzona, an epoxy steel. Mechanics at a waste water treatment plant would use it to reconstruct impellers on waste water pumps. Would use on worn shafts also. Once cured it had to be machined. probably too expensive for your application. But it came to mind reading your post.. gobble
 
This one is also well documented and makes a good repair. If the shaft is repaired to round and a lubed bushing is installed it should be fine. Clean with electromotive spray or brake clean, then blow dry with dry air or heat to dry with a blow drier (not heat gun. Rough up the bushing on the outside with a course file to assure adhesion. Apply well mixed to the casting with the bushing in place. If the location is bigger than 1/4" in size, use duct tape to keep the material in place. Jim
Devcon.
 
I have been using Devcon for over 20 years for flap rail repairs (FAA approved) on aircraft from 172?s to Beech 1900?s and the stuff is absolutely proven to work. It can be machined, drilled etc, but it is extremely important to get the ratios correct for a 100% strength. I have performed many casting and bushing repairs on my tractors over the years and have yet to have one fail.
 
Didn't know about the Devcon when I did a repair to the shifter housing on a 9N. Used a product from Abatron, Inc You will have to Google it, as I don't remember the exact name of the epoxy. It has worked for three years, in an application that destroyed J=B weld in three minutes.
 
Had some slop between axle & wheel hubs on my Gravely tractor, Used Devcon 10-12 years ago it holds tight. Only way to remove hub now is to heat to approx 425 & remove.Works very well.
 
(quoted from post at 22:53:41 02/11/18) Saw a product called Belzona, an epoxy steel. Mechanics at a waste water treatment plant would use it to reconstruct impellers on waste water pumps. Would use on worn shafts also. Once cured it had to be machined. probably too expensive for your application. But it came to mind reading your post.. gobble

We call it Wop Weld. The nuclear industry runs on the stuff to repair pump impellers and housings in systems that pump raw lake water. Lasts longer than welded in metal.
 
Many thanks, Devcon, that is the name I could not remember. We used it years ago at the zinc smelter. (LOL) Getting old and losing my history.
 
Are you serious??!!! I thought those flap rails could only be replaced. If it can be used for that then it HAS to be good stuff. What is the Devcon product number? I want to get some to keep on hand in the shop.
 
I purchased the smallest amount they would sell of the Belzona 1111, very expensive. Over 300.00

I couldn't see it worked much different than the JB Weld steel. They use the Belzona to build up shaves that bearing has spun and cause it to be undersized and machined the shaft down to the size to install a new bearing. The bearing does not turn on the Belzona material in that case. It does not hold up when something is moving on the Belzona. You might use that type of material to cement in a metal bushing if it was washed out large enough.
 
Replacement if rails are cracked or go below minimum tolerances. Mostly used to fix gouges on centreline, or on sides from uneven wear from bad rollers. The p/n is Devcon Wear Risistant Putty (WR-2) 11410
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Belzona is the only thing I've ever seen that would round the tip of a carbide insert! 20+ years ago I used some to build up some pump shafts in a power plant.
 
We used Belzona to set the miter gates on the R.C. Byrd locks and Dam in the 90s then again to repair the chain slides on the roller gates (links weigh 1 ton each and are bronze) Used several pallets of it on each application. In fact, I can probably find a couple packs of it around here that were given to me after the job was done. Both are still working good. It can be machined once it gets cured and it is as hard as any mild steel. Keith
 
JB Weld is popular here. Ensure you mix it 50-50 and give it plenty of time to cure out. Grind it off, drill and tap and be on your way. for holes, or finish off with an end mill.
 
Because I was wanting to use the product on an injection mold they sent in a tec fellow. He helped with the repair and it only lasted a week. I machined the cured product with a standard mill cutter and finished up with fine sand strip.
 
Maybe a autobody aluminized polyester filler would work. Metal-to-metal or all-metal comes to mind. As long as you don't use it on a high temperature bearing it should work. Sets in 10 minutes. Surfaces must be clean,oil free and scuffed.
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I used JB weld to fit a new bushing in a walleyed out bore where the front axle pivots on a 1086 IH. Several thousand hours later I replaced the bushing again just to tighten things up. The old JB ‘d bushing was holding just fine. When I pounded it out I had forgotten I had used JB the first time and I wondered what that gray stuff was till the light bulb lit up in my head.
 
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