UTU Crank socket repair

[Duane Kaufman]

Dear All,
I recently moved my (deceased) Dad's tractors up to Wisconsin from Western Iowa (thank you, Brett Clark!).
Prior to moving them, I removed the Caswell loader front end from the Dad's UTU, and to my surprise, a chunk of the crank socket broke off, since it was hanging on by a thread (see picture). The Caswell front-end didn't allow us to use the crank, so I am at a loss as to how this got broken.....

The Service manual I have has one removing the radiator, and moving the front pedestal away from the engine for dis-assembly of the crank assembly. What is the minimum I need to take apart to get this part out to replace/repair?
Does anyone think I can weld the broken part back in-place? I have stick and TIG (not that I am any good at either!)

Your un-varnished, honest feedback is appreciated.

Sincerely,
Duane

 

[T.R.K.]

I figured you would get an good answer by now.
I have never done this: but, If it is (mostly) like a ZTU: I am thinking that there is a drop box (enclosed chain) at the rear of that shaft where the flange is broken. I am thinking you will have to at least remove the radiator and the flat plate that covers the steering gears. Then, if you can get that drop box apart-rear cover off- and get the roll pin out of the upper sprocket, and get the sprocket itself to slide off the shaft, then you can pull the shaft out the front pedestal, without removing the front pedestal from the tractor. (Assuming a perfect world with no rust and etc.) The reason you want to take the cover plate off the steering gear is there is a spring on that shaft that pulls the shaft forward away from the crank jaw on the front pulley when the engine starts. I am thinking that spring is held in place with either a big cotter pin or another roll pin. Then the shaft will have to slide out of the spring as it comes out the front.

 

[Duey C]

I also thought an answer would come.
Have you tried your welder yet? SHOULD be a forged steel part.
Here's a '50 UTS crank HOLE so I believe the hole is straight thru for yours as well.
Pretty close if comparing. My dealer tried the crank, said it was a bugger.
No J style chain drop box like with an RE engine.
I certainly wouldn't doubt there might be some foolishness to remove the shaft.
Humbly shown.
Always wrong me.

 

[Duane Kaufman]

I figured you would get an good answer by now.
I have never done this: but, If it is (mostly) like a ZTU: I am thinking that there is a drop box (enclosed chain) at the rear of that shaft where the flange is broken. I am thinking you will have to at least remove the radiator and the flat plate that covers the steering gears. Then, if you can get that drop box apart-rear cover off- and get the roll pin out of the upper sprocket, and get the sprocket itself to slide off the shaft, then you can pull the shaft out the front pedestal, without removing the front pedestal from the tractor. (Assuming a perfect world with no rust and etc.) The reason you want to take the cover plate off the steering gear is there is a spring on that shaft that pulls the shaft forward away from the crank jaw on the front pulley when the engine starts. I am thinking that spring is held in place with either a big cotter pin or another roll pin. Then the shaft will have to slide out of the spring as it comes out the front.

Dear T.R.K.,
Your instruction is what I had seen as well, I was hoping to not have to pull the radiator, but it looks like that would be required to pull that shaft.

Sincerely,
Duane

 

[Duane Kaufman]

I also thought an answer would come.
Have you tried your welder yet? SHOULD be a forged steel part.
Here's a '50 UTS crank HOLE so I believe the hole is straight thru for yours as well.
Pretty close if comparing. My dealer tried the crank, said it was a bugger.
No J style chain drop box like with an RE engine.
I certainly wouldn't doubt there might be some foolishness to remove the shaft.
Humbly shown.
Always wrong me.

Dear Duey C.,

I have not (yet) tried welding, but I figure I have little to lose trying.

Sincerely,
Duane

 

[molinegb]

You have to remove radiator and plate covering sector/worm gear setup. Shaft is spring loaded. Not a fun job. Am sure you don't need crank setup if has starter.

 

[Duane Kaufman]

You have to remove radiator and plate covering sector/worm gear setup. Shaft is spring loaded. Not a fun job. Am sure you don't need crank setup if has starter.

Dear Molinegb,

It does have a starter, and as long as I have been alive it had the Caswell loader front on it, so it could not be cranked by hand, so it was either pulled, or roll, or starter - started.

I will still have all those methods available, whether or not welding works.

Thanks for verifying the radiator would need to be pulled.

Sincerely,
Duane

 

[MMDEL]

Are you fixing it to use or for looks???? V it out and weld with a good cast rod. Looks like a U. You could replace the complete Pedestal in the time it will take to remove the crank mechanism . I have two available. With proper equipment it can be changed with out draining the coolant.

 

[Duane Kaufman]

Are you fixing it to use or for looks???? V it out and weld with a good cast rod. Looks like a U. You could replace the complete Pedestal in the time it will take to remove the crank mechanism . I have two available. With proper equipment it can be changed with out draining the coolant.

Dear MMDEL,
I would be trying to fix it for use as a backup option, if the starter doesn't/can't be used.
That being said, in the 50 years I have known the tractor, it has never been started with the crank....

Sincerely,
Duane

 

[MMDEL]

You are right!!!! Nobody uses a crank anymore. Any MM tractor built since the late 50 s has no provision for a crank. If it was mine I would V it out weld it up grind it off and paint so it doesn't look so junky.

 

[molinegb]

There is some amazing glues that work on steel and can grind /sand in few minutes. Rapid fix is one.