Valve cover

[Longhornnc]

I ve got a MF 150 that is leaking around the valve cover. I know I ve got to remove fuel tank. Is this something a newbie can do or should I take it to a professional? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Geo-TH,In]

A redneck only reads directions or takes things to a professional after he can't figure it out.

My mom used to make fun of her sister's husband.
His idea of fixing anything was to pick up the phone and call someone.

 

[stevieb49829]

Either make sure the tank is empty, or the shutoff works good. Empty is easier to handle. Go from there. See how much help I am?? steve

 

[Ericp351]

Yes-you can do it. Clean the crankcase breather as applicable- soak it in a coffee can of gas. Kerosene for the woke/ politically correct. Do not over do the RTV goo! Un professional + can block oil passages. Consider at least a cold valve lash check- look over all springs, et cetera. Relax-enjoy.

 

[old-9]

I know nothing about that tractor, but did you try to tighten the bolts?

 

[Longhornnc]

Thanks for the info!

 

[Longhornnc]

Thank you!

 

[Longhornnc]

Lol

 

[Hemmjo]

I am not certain of your specific engine. However, the vast majority of valve covers are typically made from stamped sheet metal. Around the base is a flange with 4 or more bolts that hold it in place. The gasket is many times relatively thick cork. The bolts squeeze the cork,or whatever your gasket is made of, sealing the oil inside.

Over time, the cork hardens, and sometimes even shrinks, allowing the oil to leak out. Also, over the years, many mechanics who have worked on your tractor may have tightened the bolts too much. This can cause the thin metal of the cover to bend. After the cover is bent around the bolts, when you install it, the gasket may be squished too much in the area around the bolts, but not enough in the space between the bolts.

After you get your cover off, place it on a flat surface to check that the sealing surface for bumps. If you see any spots that hold the cover up off the flat surface. When you identify bumps, turn the cover over and use carefully placed blows from a hammer to flatten the surface. A Ball Peen hammer works best for me.

Before you start the job, do a search for valve cover bolt load spreader you will find many similar products to use with the bolts to help hold the cover down with out bending it. Many engines come with these simple devices, but they get lost over the years.

Finally, make sure when you reinstall that the sealing surfaces are clean. I typically use A LITTLE Permatex #2 in a few spots around the cover to hold the gasket in place when you reinstall.

Finally, for real this time, again I do not know about your specific engine, if your valves need adjustment, this is the time to do that also.

 

[Longhornnc]

I appreciate the information!

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 19:49:29 12/24/23) I appreciate the information!

Your MF150 will have one of three engines, a 3-cylinder Perkins gas or diesel or the 4-cylinder Continental gas. The gas tank will need to be removed. There should be 2 clips at the rear of the tank and 1 clip at the front of the tank which hold it in place.

The valve covers on all three engines use 2 rocker arm studs through the cover to hold it in place (no capscrews or load spreaders in the perimeter flange where the gasket is). There will be a rubber sealing grommet, flat washer, and nut on each stud. Remove the valve cover and clean the gasket area on the head and the gasket area of the valve cover of any stuck-on gasket material. It is a good time to clean the entire valve cover. All three use a breather tube that attaches to the valve cover, no crankcase breather filter to clean.

You need to get the correct valve cover gasket set for your engine. I believe the Perkins engines use the same gasket set, however the Continental is different.

Wipe the gasket sealing areas with brake cleaner so it is clean and dry. #2 Permatex can be used to hold the new gasket on the valve cover. I generally use Permatex High Tack on the cover flange to stick the gasket. 3M weather strip adhesive also works well. Only use those products on the cover flange, leave the head sealing area dry. When the cover has to be removed in the future most of the old gasket will come off on the cover which can be taken to a bench or better area for cleaning, minimizing cleaning requirements on the head. when the cover is set down over the studs, center it up around the studs, install the grommets then flat washers and nuts. Tighten down snug with a proper size wrench (1/2'' on the Perkins and 9/16'' on the Continental, if I remember right). You can reach in and snug them a bit more later if needed. Do not tighten enough to distort the cover.

As others mentioned, the cover might be loose as the gaskets shrink over time. You should be able to reach under the tank to the 2 studs in the cover. Snugging it down may slow the leak and buy sometime before you need to replace the gasket.

Also as mentioned this would be a good time to check the valve lash. Do you have any manuals for your tractor? If not report back with which engine you have, and someone will be able to help you with the right info to adjust the valves.

Edited to correct spelling

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 12/26/2023 at 04:10 am.

 

[Longhornnc]

I really appreciate the good information! I have the Perkins
diesel

 

[Longhornnc]

No I do not have any manuals

 

[Jim.ME]

You can use the online MF150 parts book at the AGCOparts website. You will see that the book covers all three engines and other components your tractor may or may not have, so read carefully. It will at let you see the parts and pieces as well as something to reference if you need to ask a question. In the left side index Page 84 shows the head and rocker cover of the diesel and Page 102 shows the fuel tank. Here is a link to the parts book.

https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/651200/l&name=MF 150 TRACTOR

You should look for an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual for it. The Agco publication number for the 150 (with Perkins engines) is 1448079M3. The M3 is the revision number and one with an M1 or M2 would work for you. The Service manual for the 135/150 is publication number 144813M1. You may be able to find good used OEM manuals on eBay. Be aware that many cheap electonic copies may be incomplete or could bring more than tractor info into your device. Cheap paper copy reprints may or may not be ledgible and complete. I may be able to dig something up, after the holiday, if you decide you are going to try to adjust the valves before a manual can get to you.

 

[Longhornnc]

Thanks! You have been a big help!