Voltage regulator 4610

[Skoal022]

I need to order a new one. But my part numbers don't seem to match whats on it? You can see they are different part numbers? I bought a cheap one on ebay hope it is fine? I just didn't wanna burn anything up. First photo shows ac mine only says c on it. Then I you see the one I ordered.

 

[Bern]

As long as the plug matches, you're not going to burn anything up by trying it out. That said, don't be surprised if it doesn't charge, because 90% of the time, the problem is NOT the regulator with those charging systems.

 

[Skoal022]

(quoted from post at 13:21:32 01/27/21) As long as the plug matches, you're not going to burn anything up by trying it out. That said, don't be surprised if it doesn't charge, because 90% of the time, the problem is NOT the regulator with those charging systems.

It was over charging. Noticed my battery looked like it got kinda hot. Some fluid around the caps. I tested it with a meter on 20v dc it would read 14.4 then all of a sudden bounce to 19v then the meter would shut off. Tested the alternator already and its fine.

 

[Bern]

Overcharging in those systems can, and in fact is usually caused, by a faulty alternator. Specifically, the internal regulator
diodes inside the alternator. If the sense voltage coming from them is too low, a good regulator will do its job and boost
field output to get the sense voltage where it wants.

 

[Skoal022]

(quoted from post at 22:59:36 01/27/21) Overcharging in those systems can, and in fact is usually caused, by a faulty alternator. Specifically, the internal regulator
diodes inside the alternator. If the sense voltage coming from them is too low, a good regulator will do its job and boost
field output to get the sense voltage where it wants.

I took the alternator to a starter/generator repair shop. He bench tested it right in front of me and said it was fine. I'll keep in mind what you said. I'm having the starter rebuilt there now for 110 bucks.

 

[Bern]

If the new voltage regulator doesn't fix your problem, compare the voltage, with the engine running, between the "R" and output terminals of the alternator. They should be the same within 1/2 volt of each other. If the voltage at the "R" terminal is significantly lower, you have found the cause of the overcharging.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:38:46 01/28/21) If the new voltage regulator doesn't fix your problem, compare the voltage, with the engine running, between the "R" and output terminals of the alternator. They should be the same within 1/2 volt of each other. If the voltage at the "R" terminal is significantly lower, you have found the cause of the overcharging.

our comments made me look for Prestolite Leece Neville alt reg schematic diagram & if I found the correct diagram, I am surprised that they could call that a "design", where the regulator does not even pretend to regulate the output, but rather regulate the output of another set of didoes! Wow!

 

[Skoal022]

My new regulator plug didn't match the old one. Rather than sending it back and and spending another 76.00 I just cut and pigtailed it. Hope this will be fine color wise?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 19:09:18 02/05/21) My new regulator plug didn't match the old one. Rather than sending it back and and spending another 76.00 I just cut and pigtailed it. Hope this will be fine color wise?

ell, ...does it properly regulate?

 

[Skoal022]

Showing 16.48vdc so no it does not. I'm gonna have to look at that post on here testing at the alternator. Which I had it tested and he said it was fine.

 

[Skoal022]

I'm listening to you. Where do I ground it just to the body of the alternator? And thank you. Thought I'd try the regulator first.

 

[Skoal022]

Shame I cut the old wires from probably a good regulator. That original regulator is like 80 bucks. Now I have a cheap Chinese one no doubt.

 

[Skoal022]

(quoted from post at 09:38:46 01/28/21) If the new voltage regulator doesn't fix your problem, compare the voltage, with the engine running, between the "R" and output terminals of the alternator. They should be the same within 1/2 volt of each other. If the voltage at the "R" terminal is significantly lower, you have found the cause of the overcharging.

Starting and running. Starting at 6 o'clock position going clockwise with the big red ring terminal. 12.9 vdc , next 9 o'clock 1.4 vdc, 11 12 is 1.25 vdc. So my problem all along was the alternator and my starter shop was wrong.

Where can I buy nice replacement battery cables pretty much direct fit? And can I just take that alternator to autozone and get a replacement? Thank you guys alot! Always bail me out. Lol

 

[Skoal022]

 

[JMOR]

Bern, is this about what he has, where diagram D+ is "R" and BATT+ is "Output"?

 

[Skoal022]

Should be in spec then. I kinda dumba$$Ed myself. That top terminal 12 o'clock would read 1.20vdc and then sporadically drop to .90vdc which would still be right at .5 volt difference and in spec. The one at 9 o'clock stayed at 1.4 vdc.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:16:14 02/06/21) Should be in spec then. I kinda dumba$$Ed myself. That top terminal 12 o'clock would read 1.20vdc and then sporadically drop to .90vdc which would still be right at .5 volt difference and in spec. The one at 9 o'clock stayed at 1.4 vdc.

o, I don't think you have understood Bern. I believe Bern is telling you that OUTPUT stud and the 'R" terminal at 9 o'clock should measure the same voltage (give or take a small amount).

 

[Skoal022]

(quoted from post at 11:21:52 02/07/21)

(quoted from post at 15:16:14 02/06/21) Should be in spec then. I kinda dumba$$Ed myself. That top terminal 12 o'clock would read 1.20vdc and then sporadically drop to .90vdc which would still be right at .5 volt difference and in spec. The one at 9 o'clock stayed at 1.4 vdc.

o, I don't think you have understood Bern. I believe Bern is telling you that OUTPUT stud and the 'R" terminal at 9 o'clock should measure the same voltage (give or take a small amount).

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:05:59 02/07/21)

(quoted from post at 11:21:52 02/07/21)

(quoted from post at 15:16:14 02/06/21) Should be in spec then. I kinda dumba$$Ed myself. That top terminal 12 o'clock would read 1.20vdc and then sporadically drop to .90vdc which would still be right at .5 volt difference and in spec. The one at 9 o'clock stayed at 1.4 vdc.

o, I don't think you have understood Bern. I believe Bern is telling you that OUTPUT stud and the 'R" terminal at 9 o'clock should measure the same voltage (give or take a small amount).

ll I see is another picture of the back of Motorola alternator. Supposed to be comments?

 

[Skoal022]

Ok the "R" is 9 o'clock position? Output is the big ring at 6 o'clock position? If so the output was 12.98 vdc and the "R" was 1.40 vdc. If that's right it's definitely way off of .5 volts.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:17:31 02/07/21)
Ok the "R" is 9 o'clock position? Output is the big ring at 6 o'clock position? If so the output was 12.98 vdc and the "R" was 1.40 vdc. If that's right it's definitely way off of .5 volts.

hen output is 12.98, the "R" at 9 o'clock should be 12.98 also (give or tale a fraction of a volt).

 

[Skoal022]

(quoted from post at 14:27:49 02/07/21)

(quoted from post at 17:17:31 02/07/21)
Ok the "R" is 9 o'clock position? Output is the big ring at 6 o'clock position? If so the output was 12.98 vdc and the "R" was 1.40 vdc. If that's right it's definitely way off of .5 volts.

hen output is 12.98, the "R" at 9 o'clock should be 12.98 also (give or tale a fraction of a volt).

Thank you! I ordered a DB electrical alternator off flea bay for 61.00 and new battery cables. Wanted to change the serpentine belt while I was there but looks like I have to pull the lower harmonic balancer to have clearance from the front diff?

 

[Skoal022]

frame I meant to say.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 20:05:43 02/07/21) frame I meant to say.

ust be sure that the VR is a match to the alternator.

 

[Skoal022]

(quoted from post at 20:51:11 02/07/21)

(quoted from post at 20:05:43 02/07/21) frame I meant to say.

ust be sure that the VR is a match to the alternator.

How do I do that? I put that new cheap one on. I seen either a manufacturer date wheel or a adjustment flathead on the backside of that cheap VR.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 07:35:06 02/08/21)

(quoted from post at 20:51:11 02/07/21)

(quoted from post at 20:05:43 02/07/21) frame I meant to say.

ust be sure that the VR is a match to the alternator.

How do I do that? I put that new cheap one on. I seen either a manufacturer date wheel or a adjustment flathead on the backside of that cheap VR.

n old time good parts man. Might get help from DB electrical? The mis-matched plug receptacle problem that you had makes me suspicious.

 

[Skoal022]

Yea me too. See what happens I guess. I might just have to buy another VR. I found this wiring diagram online for the new cheap one.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:51:02 02/08/21)

Yea me too. See what happens I guess. I might just have to buy another VR. I found this wiring diagram online for the new cheap one.

nother view for you:

 

[Skoal022]

(quoted from post at 12:04:59 02/08/21)

(quoted from post at 14:51:02 02/08/21)

Yea me too. See what happens I guess. I might just have to buy another VR. I found this wiring diagram online for the new cheap one.

nother view for you:

UPADATE: After all the ice and flooding, finally got around and changed my alternator with the new DB electrical one $60.00. It fixed it. It's showing 14.1 to 14.22vdc now. So I guess I wired that voltage regulator right and it's working as well. I also replaced the battery cables. Starts really well now, almost like a different tractor. Lol Thank you guys very much!!

 

[JMOR]

Glad you gotit worked out.