W- 9 engine removal

F-MM

Member
What's involved in pulling this engine out of a W-9. What do I need to unbolt on the back or clutch end. Or does it just move forward and up to clear? I don't have a manual. Thanks

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You need to unhook enough stuff in the back under the flywheel cover. Motor comes up enough to get the dowels out then go forward. U can actually remove the pressure plate and trans coupler without removing the motor but is tough. Be sure to put all back before dropping motor back in.
 
Ok, so I do need to remove the gas tank and support, the belt pulley and cover, then I should be able to see what needs to come apart? Thanks, I wasn't sure what else I needed to do.
 
You need a book.The book will tell you how to safely and properly remove the engine.Then when you put it back together it will give all the correct Torq specs and tolerances,ad well as hidden things to look for.Trying to wing it without a book is a good way to doit twice.Order one today.These guys here at YT can supply it.
 
Well I got the engine out this afternoon without breaking anything but I will definitely need a shop manual before I go much further. Does anyone here have one that they want to sell. I see some on eBay but some are sold out or diesel only, I need a gas one.
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YT looks like it has the manual you need 2nd one in the list, see link. One thing about the McCormick line they do not offer the parts list on the current CNHI online parts diagrams. Most all other machines after the F20-30 series can be looked up. But the McCormicks are orphaned, you cannot even see parts diagrams for the W600. I should say at least I have not found them, unless someone knows a trick I do not.
Poke here
 
If your going to buy books, the Owners Manuel is pretty basic. The info found in those pretty much pertains to operation and maintenance. Not saying you shouldn't have one of those too, but don't expect to find torque specs and such in there. So, first and foremost, get the shop manuel.
 
I'd want some better blocks under that engine than that rubegoldberg set up you have there. It's a disaster looking for a place to happen. It also will not end well if it tips over or the blocks collapse sideways under it. Get some 6x6's or bigger for those kind of blocking jobs. I even use some 12x12's for some jobs and not pine either. Mostly Oak or Ash.
 
Thanks for your concern, those blocks are not exactly what you describe, they are laminated 6X6 posts cut off from the posts that are built into this shop, one is flat and second one is on edge but the same dimensions. I had to lower it off the forklift and set it down before night but it is very solid and I tried to wiggle it without any movement at all.
 
not sure if you would be interested, but i have a complete live hydraulic set up for a w-9 or wd-9. has the pump, reservoir, hoses, hydraulic valve and rod. i bought it for my w-9 but never got around to installing it. i have wheel weights too. i will get some pictures and post them. i am in n central illinois, shipping would be an issue.
 

We are doing a td-9 engine. And have the book, but when the book says use a rope to lift the engine, we decided to not follow the book, and just use it for lookup.
 
Thanks, I went ahead and ordered one of the service manuals from this site that should cover my tractor. If it doesn't can I get some way to look at what you have scanned? thanks
 
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