W6 Stuck Clutch

[wowsk]

I've been working on a W6 for a couple months now for my cousin. I've rebuilt the engine and yesterday Grandpa helped pull it around the barnyard to get oil pressure built up. All good no knocks and built oil pressure. The issue is the clutch was stuck. While it was in 5th gear I tried holding in the clutch and hitting the brakes but no luck. There is the bottom access cover or I can take the gas tank off and take the top cover off, right? Is it possible to take the pressure plate loose and get in there with a long screwdriver to break the clutch plate free off of the flywheel?

Any advice welcome. I'd like to get the clutch free before starting it.

Thanks,
Noah

 

[Bob M]

A couple things to try:

1 - With the clutch released pull the tractor alternately a few feet forward then backward several times. Often the alternating torque load on the clutch will break it free.

2 - If #1 doesn't work, chock the front wheels then jack and solidly crib the rear end off the ground (safety first here!!!). Now start the engine and with it running at about half governed RPM. With the clutch released, solidly apply both brakes. The clutch will see much higher torque than it will with #1 which should break it free.

 

[rustred]

For all the time it takes. Pull the gas tank and cover and you’re staring at the problem. Way faster than screwing around trying to unstick it other ways. This way t b e job can be done properly by removing the rust and see what’s going on. And clean and lube the release brg. And yoke. Plus the pilot brg. And clutch splines. So all is free and easy sliding.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Pretty sure you can completely change out the clutch through the top once the fuel tank and cover are removed.

 

[rustred]

thats the only way it can be done. referring to the tub frame. the channel frame super models require a split.

 

[wowsk]

Thanks for the advice. Good to know it can all be done from above without splitting. I'll get it apart and everything lubed up.

 

[wowsk]

Got the clutch out, it is pretty easy. The tapered bolts holding the connector between the input shaft and transmission were rusted tight and had to use a 3ft pipe on the wrench to break them loose. The clutch face was completely gone, pieces were in the bottom of the housing along with a lot of oily dust. Good thing I took it apart.

I am going to get a rebuild kit from this website and put all new bearings, clutch plate, and pressure plate in it.

Is it possible to replace the rear main felts when I have the flywheel out with the engine still in the frame?

Thanks,
Noah