W9--Finally got one piston out.

[F-MM]

I finally drove one piston out with sleeve on it. Sleeve was shinny still on outside. I pressed it down first and broke ring off sleeve top.

 

[Dave BN]

What do you think was the biggest help in your success?
Dave

 

[rustred]

yes that is exactly what happens when pushing on them. dont take much to break of that lip off. even hammering on them you will crack them and they must come out. pushing them up is the best deal . so what procedure did u use to get it out?

 

[F-MM]

I'm afraid that that was one of the easy ones,#1. #3 & #4 have more rust. The only way I got this one to budge was after soaking it with Marvel Mystery oil a couple weeks I put a lot of pressure down until I snapped the top ring right off the sleeve, then I knew it had started to move so started driving it back up with wood and a sledgehammer.

 

[rustred]

ya but what did you use i was asking... a press or hammer. so if you hammered it up first it would have come out then

 

[F-MM]

I tried to drive them up before but they all were solid, I put an awful lot of down pressure before the ring snapped, I think the others care going to be a battle but we'll see, I started soaking back ones with diesel fuel the past few days too.

 

[old]

Have you tried the flame trick?? As in fill most of the way with ATF and then add a table spoon of gas and light it up. Let it burn till it goes out and if there is still ATF in them add another table spoon of gas and light it. Once most of the ATF as burned up try to push the pistons out while still good and warm

 

[F-MM]

I haven't tried that but it sounds like a good plan, I'll probably try that.

 

[old]

Doing that heats up the sleeve but not the piston so the sleeve expands a little so in turn helps free up the rings/piston

 

[rustred]

I Tryed that and its a waste of time. Does not work. Be better off heating them with a rose bud fast.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Had you tried getting the pistons and sleeves out before you removed the block frm the rear end of the tractor you could have put a jack under the piston with a wood block then with the weight of the engine on there hit the top of the block with a sledge hammer after laying a hard wood block on top of the engine block. You would gain the engine block weight helping along with the gravity. Lot easier to hit on top than trying to hit up from underneath.

 

[J Hamilton]

(quoted from post at 07:06:06 12/17/21) Had you tried getting the pistons and sleeves out before you removed the block frm the rear end of the tractor you could have put a jack under the piston with a wood block then with the weight of the engine on there hit the top of the block with a sledge hammer after laying a hard wood block on top of the engine block. You would gain the engine block weight helping along with the gravity. Lot easier to hit on top than trying to hit up from underneath.

That's the easiest way I have found to break them loose

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 18:38:16 12/16/21) I'm afraid that that was one of the easy ones,#1. #3 & #4 have more rust. The only way I got this one to budge was after soaking it with Marvel Mystery oil a couple weeks I put a lot of pressure down until I snapped the top ring right off the sleeve, then I knew it had started to move so started driving it back up with wood and a sledgehammer.

Rust IN the cylinders has nothing to do with pushing the sleeves out of the block.

The sleeve you pictured here has ZERO rust on the outside.

They're just that tight.

 

[cleddy]

I have a International 6 Cylinder Farm truck that is Stuck Rare old Flat head engine. I don't know what the cylinders & Pistons look like yet but, would like to Unstick them without breaking anything. Would the best chance be to dis-connect the rods and try working with one at a time with soaking and up and down pressure?? I think getting 6 pistons to move at one time may be doable but also very difficult??Cleddy

 

[rustred]

yes that is the way i do it .sometime it even lifts the whole tractor up.

 

[redforlife]

Disconnecting the rods from crankshaft will only work if one piston is froze, or only if two pistons that travel together are froze. Otherwise crank has to be removed to gain anything. Because if not, the other froze pistons will not allow any crankshaft freeplay, even if disconnected.

 

[redforlife]

What is the point of pressing piston & sleeve down together, and breaking off the sleeve shoulder???? I am not seeing the point to doing that. Sure, you got it to go down before coming up. But it could of been made to come up first, with less force actually than going down first. More force was needed actually, to break the sleeve shoulder before any travel.
I guess it don't matter breaking the sleeve since your discarding it anyways. BUT, what if somehow you broke the block instead?? No need to break things you don't have to, and doing it the hard way.

 

[Janicholson]

the plate method is brutal, but works. Jim

 

[tomtinker]

I have found that turning the engine over and soaking from the bottom works better for me.

 

[steelfronts]

before I broke another sleeve that way I would make a puck out of a piece of hardwood that was the same size as the piston and 1 to 3 inches thick. drop in on top of piston and get a piece of fire wood cut square on each end 10 to 16 inches long to sit on the puck and wale away with the biggest sledge you can handle the pistons will move. Work them up and down add snake juice of your preference and remove piston. Then get a puller for the sleeves maybe a bead of weld to shrink them