Wagon Rack Building Ideas

[calicopatchfarm]

Hello, this is my first time build a wagon and I have a few questions on how to build a rack. As you can see in the picture, the wagon gear is not very heavy duty and I will be using a New Holland 68 baler with a thrower and a tractor with around 35 horsepower, so I can't haul many bales at once. Idealy, the sides would be metal, but that would cost about $1200 plus the cost of the flooring. Any others ideas for metal sides, such as maybe corral pens or is wood the way to go? I have heard that wood is heavier than the metal and less sturdy. Do some types of wood work better than others, and will it be able to withstand a hay bale hitting it? Thanks for the advice.

 

[Zachary Hoyt]

Lots of people around here use wood kicker rack wagons. I have sawn custom kits on our sawmill for people who want to build their own racks. I've been selling oak and ash lumber for the kits, but anything will work. Hemlock is good, pine won't last as many years but it'll work for a while. If I were you I might shorten up the running gear so that the rear axle is 3' or so in front of the rear of the bed. I don't have a kicker on my baler, unfortunately, but I think you can adjust how far and hard the bale is thrown.
Zach

 

[wilder11354]

heres link to plans for a wood wagon. Your running gear would handle this with no problem.
Untitled URL Link

 

[buickanddeere]

Slant the back rack 6-8" to the rear at the top. A vertical backrack makes for an unstable load of hay bales.

 

[Deere Scotty]

Wood would be OK. I knew a neighbor that built one with plywood, & 2 x 4 braces. He used 2 8' sheets on each side, & I think cut 1 foot off both ends. So the bed was around 7 1/2 x 16 1/2 feet. I dont remember if the bed was plywood as well. He didnt use nails! He used 1/4 inch bolts with lock nuts. I know it lasted at least 15 years before he sold it. I also remember the back sheet of plywood was hinged at the bottom, & had chains at the corners so he'd drop it flat & could walk the bales to an elevator. Of course I could think of many other things to use it for!

 

[showcrop]

Mine, and most that I see are wood deck with steel sides. A few suggestions: Hemlock about 3"x8" for beams because hemlock will last, but is much lighter than most other wood; heavily reinforce the top rear because when you unintentionally throw a little strong, and it still hits the wagon, it's going to hit at the top VERY hard; leave plenty of space between deck planks for self cleaning so that there is less chaff holding moisture.

 

[elevatorman 724]

steel lasts longer. weve steel used truck beds for floor and welded pipe (used). or bought square tubing for the sides

 

[Ken Macfarlane]

Most racks are wooden up here, softwoods. Spruce/Pine/Fir construction lumber with softwood beams.

I did see up in Ontario a lot of wire racks. There was a steel rear then what looked to be be fence wires spaced about 12" apart running to the front. I think I saw some home built with page wire sides too. Would be quite light.

 

[Tim(nj)]

I have wondered about putting flashing over the tops of the rails and crossmembers so that if chaff does sit in there it's not right on the wood holding moisture.

 

[Leroy]

Been 30 years since we baled but on the flat grain beds 16' long we used 1 x 4" lumber set on end with the same 1 x 4 lengthwise on sids and the one upright board was on the inside of the grain board while the other was outside, same way for the back end with to 3/8" rods across to tie together and back did not open. The sides were made with hinges half way up and could be folded down to store the wagons in a low door shed, could also with a loader lift them off and be ready for haulling grain. We did have an anti spread chain about half way up in the middle and there were no problems with that chain breaking the bales. The front end gate was mounted on hinges with 2 legs fastened to the top and when it was opened it would lay flat and make a good landing to stand on to put bales into elevator. We use a light chain with a light load binder to hold the front end shut. We also had a 3/4" pipe bar across the top front to control spread, our baler put it under that bar, John Deere type would not work with that bar. We also had an 18' bed and had trouble getting the bales back that far. A 7' X 16' to me would be the ideal size for a bed and your gear will handle that with no trouble and be able to handle about 100-110 30" bales.