Walden Front Mount Blade

[super99]

I bought an old Walden Blade that I want to put on my 1850. The clamps that hold the blade to the frame are gone, I'm going to have to fab up something to use it. Not sure about finding a piece of pipe that will fit over the blade frame to make new ones, rough measurement is 4 1/4" pipe diameter. Wondering about just using a piece of heavy angle iron and weld on flanges for the bolts to go thru. Looks like all the force when pushing will be on the blade frame, the clamps just hold it in place. Has anyone had or seen one on a Oliver before? Wondering about bolting the rear of the frame to the rear axles. Oliver axles have 6 holes cast into the axles, are they strong enough to bolt up there, or do I need to put bolts outside the axles to take the strain of pushing dirt? The holes in the rear mounting plates do not match the holes in the axle, but the plates do not extend far enough past the axles to just bolt it up, looks like I will have to do some modification to the rear mount also. Is all of the push force on the axles or did they have something to fasten onto the drawbar when pushing?? I guess I never have seen one close up mounted on a tractor, just thought they looked like they would be quite the asset to move a little dirt. Chris

 

[ss55]

Will you be pushing a 7 foot or 8 foot width of dirt with a 100 HP tractor like it was a bulldozer? Pushing lighter and looser material like silage, grain, corn cobs or snow might be better? Maybe stay within the tillage gears or cut back on the rear axle weight so that tire slip will limit the strain on the tractor.

 

[retired farmer]

I had a twelve footer mounted on a John Deere 5020 years ago. Seems like there were side plates mounted on the frame rails that it attached to.

 

[gary1466]

Dad had one on an 806 you need adaptor plates that go between the main frame and the tractor frame. there were different ones for different makes of tractors.

 

[gary1466]

I should have said these adaptor plates bolted to the engine frame rails and into the clutch housing threaded holes also . It was very solidly mounted. The rear mounts under the axle housing Some blades were mounted solid to the hoop frame so they couldn't be angled as yours and ours was we had a short shaft welded on the top of the hoop frame so we could store the part used to add in to make the blade angle. the angled part was slid down over the short piece of shaft then the short pin went into a short piece of pipe welded to the hoop frame. That way you you always had the extension with you.

 

[gary1466]

Does it have the mounting for the hyd.cylinder clamped to to left square tube going back to rear end

 

[Bob]

Correct spelling is "Waldon".

A quick 'net search for "Waldon blade Oliver" turned up the photos at the link below, on an 1800 FWA, probably some better ones out there, if you take the time to do a more thorough 'net search.





https://www.mecum.com/lots/GN1117-309474/1962-oliver-1800-b-fwa/

 

[Case Nutty 1660]

We sold them new a good number of them, they mount secure and make the dozer one with the tractor, never seen a tractor tore up from one here and several guys built stock ponds with them, I still have one here today great dozers for sure, like the guys said you are missing the flat plates from what I can see to make what you have mount to the tractor frame,, I will try to remember to snap you some of mine, on the clamp plates I would have them made as angle is not going to work super well and will dig into the pipe frame when working/ moving I am betting, the flat plate you will just have to make for your tractor , we sold 8 to 10' units on 2whl drive tractors the 10' ones were used for snow plowing mainly and had angle as well, I put many hours on our 1030 plowing snow and moving dirt, we had a straight 8' on it