washer or not?

[Kurt_JDB]

I'm in the short rows of getting the '37 B back together. Was going to put the manifold back on after installing the new (pricey) manifold studs from Deere, and I couldn't remember if there were any lock washers under the nuts when I took it off 4 months ago.

The parts book does not show any washers. Like to know what others do.

Thanks,

Kurt

 

[Elbrus]

Kurt,
Did these studs work better as far as fit? I am also planning on purchasing's Deere's studs. (I had also purchased studs (probably from the same source as you) with the same issue but had not installed them.
My parts breakout for a styled A also does not call out for lock washers. I'm also interested in the replies.
Thanks
Elbrus

 

[PBrowning]

No lock wahsers on manifold fastners. (PatB)

 

[PBrowning]

Also - limit torque to 45 - 50 ft-lbs. (PatB)

 

[Greenday]

I used the studs from Deere also on one of my unstyled B restores. Fit great but like said they are pricey!

 

[dmartin]

Not "correct" but I like to use brass/bronze nuts. They will always come off easy.

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Elbrus,

The difference was night and day between the Deere studs and the studs from Sharps. I put the Deere studs in using a small pipe wrench. They are tight and seal well. The other studs could be easily turned in by hand and would still rattle around after they were turned in all the way.

Kurt

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Pat, thanks for the torque spec. I was not going to tighten them up too much for fear of breaking an ear off.


Kurt

 

[Will P]

I have used stainless steel.

 

[Rusty wheel]

I got some grade 5 bolts, cut the heads off and chased threads on the other end. 7/16x14 studs for a John Deere "H" Got less than $3.00 in them. Fit great. No lock washer and stainless steel nuts. Use never seize on the threads.

 

[Steve in Tennessee]

I found used studs at a salvage yard for $1.00 each. Bought twice what I needed and used the ones in best condition. The B is running find and I saved a bundle over Deere's price.

 

[mrf1002u]

I also bought the studs from Sharp's and they are loose. I like most stuff I buy from Sharp's but once in a while you get one part that is close, but not quite right. I had my manifold ceramic coated and I plan on using brass flat washers under the brass nuts from Correct Connection to protect the coating. (I will also be buying the studs from Deere. Afraid the ones from Sharp's will end up pulling out of the head when tightened.)

 

[PBrowning]

HI KURT - - I too highly recommend brass nuts for your manifold studs - then limit torque no more than (say) 40 ft-lbs, surely 45 ft-lbs max.

I do not think you will be happy with the flat washers. But then, you can always take them out.

Now -- the good news - I have access to a complete set of JD-H manifold studs R2622R (4 ea) and the total price delivered in the USA by Priority mail is $25!

I did not plan to get into this, but since several "H" owners have had grief lately with Sharp's manifold studs, I looked around and found these - a service only! Are you interested? Let me know - see my email above. Your money fully refunded if not absolutely happy! (PatB)

 

[mrf1002u]

Pat,

Mine is a 37 US B...you don't have a line on those studs with the correct interference threads on the bottom end do you?

 

[PBrowning]

The stud I have a line on is R2622R (Sub for A126R). Your US-B tractor uses two of this size & length -- 7/16 x 4-3/8". If you have the need - call or write me, I will link you up. (386) 624-7916. Yes, these are with the correct interferrence thread on the "screw-in" end. (PatB)