WD Hydraulics Question

[8N-Bob]

Hi All:
I have a quick question.

[i:f7f8ba4971]Here is the set up[/i:f7f8ba4971]
I have a WD with a return line to the Hydraulic oil pan. The HP oil line goes to the spool valve on my log splitter and the drain drain line from the spool valve goes back to the Hydraulic oil pan. This setup has worked for a number of years

[i:f7f8ba4971]Here is the problem [/i:f7f8ba4971]
A few winters ago we were splitting wood and everything was fine. We finished for the day and came out the next day started the tractor and pulled pulled the quadrant down to raise the lift arms and pressurize the the hydraulic system. The person who did that said there was a little bit of resistance and pulled harder and ever since then the arms lift slowly and with almost no pressure to the system. I borrowed a gage and it's like 175 PSImax.
The weather was really really cold and I bet there was some moisture in the hydraulic fluid and it was froze.

I have messed with the settings and nothing improves the situation. I am thinking something internal is messed up but before I tear into the pump etc I figured I would ask here and see if anyone could maybe shed some light or suggestions.

Thanks in Advance
Bob

 

[old]

While this in not likely to be the problem have you tried to adjust the little knob on the hyd area?? I have seen it get turned just from vibration and cause odd problems

 

[8N-Bob]

I did move it in and out some and tried it in several positions. Does not fix the problem. I'm not home right now so I can't remember what it was set and and what the other settings I tried were. But it was working one day and the next it was not and it was probably due to a freeze situation with moisture in the hydraulic oil and a forced move on the quadrant to get it to raise the arms and pressurize the system.

 

[old]

If it has ice in the system could be the suction area of the pump could be stopped up with the ice so in turn the pump cannot suck much if any fluid

 

[8N-Bob]

This happened two years ago and the quadrant was forced. Right now is 60?F out.

 

[old]

If it was forced in some way then a shear pin or other such may have broken

 

[8N-Bob]

Hi All:
I am replying to my own post to push to the top.
I am hoping it gets a few more reads and some one with maybe can help come up with some other ideas on things to look for.

I drained the Hyd. system and put in new fluid and ran the system from a while and it's lifting better with no load but I don't have a pressure gage at the moment.

I have hooked up my drag blade to the tractor and when it lifts it up its jittery and does not lift that quickly. When it finishes lifting and I put the quadrant it the hold position it will hold the blade where I set it for quite a long time even with the tractor shut down.

Before I go to extremes and take the pump off and tear it completely apart, which and can and will do is there,

1. Something I should check, linkage wise that maybe I missed.
2. Some safety that I can get to with out removing the pump that may not be seating etc.
3. When I tear into the pump that I should check from trying to lift with like a check spring etc. that may be the culprit. where it's not completely seating.

Thanks in Advance
Bob

 

[DrAllis]

If the system is FULL of the proper type of oil, I doubt that changing the linkage will do anything positive. Inside the pump are five balls and five springs. It sounds to me like there are broken springs, which they should ALWAYS be replaced with new, broken or not. The chrome check balls are usually OK, but look at them for pitting. If you remove the hold valve on the top, you could check/change out four of the five springs and balls. If you strike out there, you meed to yank the pump and go thru it. All spools need to be clean and free to slide and all pointing in the right direction. Control valve sleeves must be installed the correct way and have two new Orings where needed. LAY ALL THESE PARTS OUT SO YOU KNOW HOW THEY GO BACK TOGETHER !! There are two more Orings on the unloader valve that need to be replaced while in there. When these pumps are clean and assembled correctly, they work dependably for many years. Be sure to wash out all the mud that will be laying in the bottom of the pump cavity.

 

[8N-Bob]

Thanks for the Advice. I was with out internet until today. I will check on that and see if I can pull that off and see what condition the springs are in.

Thanks for the reply.

Bob.