wd45 12 volt

cityboy

Member
Trying to help my neighbor get his wd45 running before spending $'s on it. Ran when parked 3 years ago.

Gas tank, lines clean best he could while still on tractor. No junk in sediment bowl.

Tractor cranks. There is suction at the carb.

There is no spark at the plugs. Dizzy cap, contacts rusted. Rotor button looks clean. Points look clean too.

He gets 12v at the coil but that's the end of our knowledge.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you, Don.
 
You should have battery voltage at input to the coil and output should be battery voltage with points open, near zero voltage with points closed.

You can't always tell condition of points just by looking. If tractor has set for 3 years there is a good chance there is a film on the points that will keep them from making contact. Fold a dollar bill several times and pull it through closed points, check points gap, probably .020. Then see if you get spark from output of coil.

If cap is rusted replace it. Also check contact in center of top of coil to make sure it and wire are not rusted.

Confirm that wire from center of coil will jump a quarter inch gap to ground and then confirm that plug wires will also jump a gap. Once you confirm spark, it it still does not start move onto and troubleshoot fuel system.
 
i would agree that the point is contaminated.. Sometimes you have to get more aggressive with the
cleaning.. I have run fine sandpaper thru the point to get it clean... many will say that is too
aggressive, but sometimes thats what it takes.
 
He gets 12v at the coil.. do you actually have a meter
or test light telling you this if so that is a good thing.
Hook the meter or test light to the wire that goes to
the distributor. When you get the points contacting
correctly the meter should be zero or the light off
when the points are closed and light or show voltage
when they are open. So when right the test light
should blink on and off as the points open and close
while cranking with the starter, or meter will switch
between zero and 12. Once you get that go ahead with
Virgils spark jump test. The fuel has to get in the carb
so check if it is coming out of the drain on the carb if it
has one. Not familiar with Allis but many brands have a
screen that is on the actual fitting the fuel line
connects to on the carb. You have to screw it out to
check and clean it.
 
I'd bet condenser. They can be junk new out of the box these days. Pretty cheap to toss a new points/condenser set in.
AaronSEIA
 
He had a meter. Gets 12.46 on + coil post, same on - post, same on post inside dizzy for coil/condenser.

Tried the plug spark test w/center dizzy cap post. Made sure the post, both ends of plug wire, top of plug were clean. No spark.

Never checked for voltage at the points open/closing.

He says he will get new cap/rotor, etc.

Thank you all.
Much appreciated, Don.
 
on the stubborn ones, I've had good luck taking a piece of emery cloth, fold it over with cloth side out/sandy side in. Give the cloth outside a couple puffs of electric spray or carb cleaner and pull that through points a couple times. More agressive but won't scratch the surface. Give cleaner time to evaporate before sparking points.
 
Neighbor cleaned the contacts under the cap. Lifted top of rotor contact a bit. Got it to fire and run for a few. Did this 3 or 4 times, fire/run each time. He'll spend a few bucks to rewire, tuneup and such.

Thanks much for everyones help,
Don.
 
Generally running for an amount of time then dying is a
fuel issue. The flow is just trickling into the carb. When
the engine runs out of fuel in the carb it keeps trickling
in and enough comes in to restart it. Then it starts and
uses more than is trickling in and stops again. Sure this
CAN BE the coil or condenser, but since it has been
setting a while some built up crud in the carb inlet
screen or something in the carb blocking fuel flow is
far more likely.
 
Carb rebuild is on his list of things to do. All the wiring is shot but he got it to fire and run which was his 1st goal.

Thanks much, Don.
 

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