WD45 electronic ignition

[RedRamGT]

But I hear that a lot of the foreign made points today don't hold up like the old U.S. made ones.

If you get *good* points, they'll last a long time. Sadly... people get points from the land of almost right (across the pond to the west), and they don't work well from day one. Good points - NAPA Echlin or Standard Motor (Available from O'Reilly) - cost more, but work.

 

[Elliott22]

Sorry if that was a little strong, easy to forget you’re a middleman. I am used to dealing somewhat direct here.

No not at all. You’re being very helpful!! I really appreciate you taking your time to help. If you want just come over and figure it out for me!!!!

 

[JMOR]

No not at all. You’re being very helpful!! I really appreciate you taking your time to help. If you want just come over and figure it out for me!!!!

If it was answered above, I can't find it, but are the spark plug wires of the "noise suppression" type or actual metal wire?

 

[Elliott22]

Not for sure. The guy who changed them bough a kit with coil module plugs and wires. Idk where he got the kit from.

If it was answered above, I can't find it, but are the spark plug wires of the "noise suppression" type or actual metal wi

 

[Elliott22]

I want to help you out, but we can’t play the game “it can’t be the wired wrong it’s worked that way for 8 years” I have been down that road and it just draws out the process. I requested you to check certain things and respond, if you can’t do that it may get tough for me to hang in here. There are probably 50 ways to wire it but only 1-2 maybe 3 are acceptable for long term reliability. So checking if the terminal on the alternator has constant power or does it switch on and off with the key is where we’re at. When it dies are you checking for power feeding the coil and EI? There could be breaks in the wires that reconnect when you move the wires around installing the new parts. Without diagnosing I can’t tell you, what is causing your problem. It seems you want us to tell you a simple fix like “sit in the seat backwards and it will work perfectly” any answer to the problem has to be figured out through your input.

Alternator has power with switch on and off. Ignition has power to the coil with the switch on and no power with the switch off. Got 12v going to the coil

 

[used red MN]

Alternator has power with switch on and off. Ignition has power to the coil with the switch on and no power with the switch off. Got 12v going to the coil

I would say the next step would be to run a voltage check on the battery as Jim suggests in reply 9.

 

[Elliott22]

I would say the next step would be to run a voltage check on the battery as Jim suggests in reply 9.

I checked the battery when I replaced the module last time and it was 12.5v. With the tractor running it was 13.5v. Maybe the alternator is over charging it and frying the module?

 

[timcasbolt]

13.5 v is not overcharging. It's actually a little under what you'd like to see, but probably adequate.

 

[Elliott22]

13.5 v is not overcharging. It's actually a little under what you'd like to see, but probably adequate.

Yeah I was just saying if maybe at times it would over charge

 

[olddavid]

Alternator has power with switch on and off.

I'm wondering if this is right. I've heard some kind of provision has to be made for that such as a rectifier or relay cutout of some kind. I may be wrong on this. If it feeds back to the module with the switch off it could burn up the module as some are saying. Edit: That is probably ok I just reviewed a diagram for an internal regulator circuit. There will be 12 volts on the terminal feeding back through the alternator. The diode prevents it from feeding back to the ignition switch so as long as the module is hooked to the ignition switch and has no voltage in the off position it should be ok.

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm wondering if this is right. I've heard some kind of provision has to be made for that such as a rectifier or relay cutout of some kind. I may be wrong on this. If it feeds back to the module with the switch off it could burn up the module as some are saying. Edit: That is probably ok I just reviewed a diagram for an internal regulator circuit. There will be 12 volts on the terminal feeding back through the alternator. The diode prevents it from feeding back to the ignition switch so as long as the module is hooked to the ignition switch and has no voltage in the off position it should be ok.

A one wire alternator (which he said it has) should have power all the time on the one wire (should be 10 gauge or heavier) which should run between the stud terminal of the alternator and the load terminal on the ammeter, or to the battery post on the solenoid. There is no exciter wire from the ignition switch to the alternator, as is used with a three-wire alternator, so back feed to the ignition, is not an issue.

 

[Elliott22]

Not for sure. The guy who changed them bough a kit with coil module plugs and wires. Idk where he got the kit from.

I finally got to talk to the guy who replaced the coil module plugs and wires. He got the kit from reliable aftermarket parts. It all came in a kit. I got ahold of them and they said they are copper core plug wires. I was told from Steiner to only use graphite style plug wires. Don’t know if this is the problem or not

 

[JMOR]

I finally got to talk to the guy who replaced the coil module plugs and wires. He got the kit from reliable aftermarket parts. It all came in a kit. I got ahold of them and they said they are copper core plug wires. I was told from Steiner to only use graphite style plug wires. Don’t know if this is the problem or not

Look at the EI module inside distributor and its markings. A number or such as Ignitor II. If Ignitor II, Pertronix says that it will be damaged unless used with suppression type plug wires.

 

[Elliott22]

Look at the EI module inside distributor and its markings. A number or such as Ignitor II. If Ignitor II, Pertronix says that it will be damaged unless used with suppression type plug wires.

Sent the module back to Steiner. They tested it and said it’s still good. Now what should I check?

 

[DanielW]

Maybe I missed something, but why are you assuming it's ignition rather than fuel? Especially with two modules having been tried and Steiner saying the returned one was good. I'd be looking elsewhere.

It sounds like the same issue loads of us have with our old iron: Crud in the gas tank partially restricting fuel flow. When left sitting for a period, enough fuel trickles into the carb bowl to start and run for a bit, then it dies (sometimes after a minute, sometimes after 30 minutes - all depends on how bad the restriction is). After sitting for a while longer (sometimes an hour, sometimes a day, sometimes a week - once again depends on how bad the restriction is) enough will have trickled back in to let it start and run for a bit, then die again because the restricted flow can't keep up with demand.

It's sometimes a pain to diagnose, as a very slight restriction can make it run for a long time before it dies. If, for instance, the engine demands 3 gallons per hour and the restriction is only allowing 2.9 GPH, the fuel flow will almost be able to keep up and the carb bowl level will drop very, very slowly; it will run for a long time before the bowl level drops enough for it to die.

Pull the drain plug from the carb and watch fuel flow out for AT LEAST 30 seconds to a minute. It should be a steady, solid stream. A lighter trickle is not sufficient.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Sent the module back to Steiner. They tested it and said it’s still good. Now what should I check?

I wonder what this "test "consisted of... they COULD be on the level, Autolite once refused me warranty on glow plugs because they "showed continuity "... not enough to light the plug but a bazillion ohms nonetheless was enough for them to call them good.

 

[JMOR]

Sent the module back to Steiner. They tested it and said it’s still good. Now what should I check?

Did you make any attempt to ID the module?

 

[Elliott22]

Maybe I missed something, but why are you assuming it's ignition rather than fuel? Especially with two modules having been tried and Steiner saying the returned one was good. I'd be looking elsewhere.

It sounds like the same issue loads of us have with our old iron: Crud in the gas tank partially restricting fuel flow. When left sitting for a period, enough fuel trickles into the carb bowl to start and run for a bit, then it dies (sometimes after a minute, sometimes after 30 minutes - all depends on how bad the restriction is). After sitting for a while longer (sometimes an hour, sometimes a day, sometimes a week - once again depends on how bad the restriction is) enough will have trickled back in to let it start and run for a bit, then die again because the restricted flow can't keep up with demand.

It's sometimes a pain to diagnose, as a very slight restriction can make it run for a long time before it dies. If, for instance, the engine demands 3 gallons per hour and the restriction is only allowing 2.9 GPH, the fuel flow will almost be able to keep up and the carb bowl level will drop very, very slowly; it will run for a long time before the bowl level drops enough for it to die.

Pull the drain plug from the carb and watch fuel flow out for AT LEAST 30 seconds to a minute. It should be a steady, solid stream. A lighter trickle is not sufficient.

We did that the first time it died on my father in-law. I kept asking him if he’s getting fuel and he finally pulled the the drain plug and it a steady stream coming out.

 

[used red MN]

Now what should I check?

Now we quit blaming the electronic ignition and diagnose and repair the actual problem. I would suggest testing to see if the wire that is powering the coil and EI is providing steady power under a load. You can do this by powering an incandescent automotive head lamp. Look at Jim.ME’s reply in the linked thread. YT Reference thread

 

[560Dennis]

We did that the first time it died on my father in-law. I kept asking him if he’s getting fuel and he finally pulled the the drain plug and it a steady stream coming out.

Needle and seat could be sticking on him . Something to look into , fuel flow rate might ok to the fitting but nothing say the foreign material is the screen in the fitting clear?
As Dan w referring Interesting spent all this time and money and the same problem is still with you .
are you going out there ? Kept up to date as to what you find ,?