Weak Hydraulics.

[L.Fure]

I think the hydraulics on my 600B are too weak for the 290 Case loader. I have to run the engine at full throttle to lift a bucket of snow. Can a new or rebuilt hydraulic pump be found for these older Case tractors?

 

[Richard G.]

Could it be you have a cylinder leaking by the seals on the piston?

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 21:38:25 01/31/21) Could it be you have a cylinder leaking by the seals on the piston?

No, I don't think that's the problem. I had the cylinders rebuilt a couple of years ago.

 

[dzc3]

Not too familiar with that model but is hydraulic filter or screen clean. When my 930 hydraulics get slow a new filter makes a world of difference

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 22:22:31 01/31/21) Not too familiar with that model but is hydraulic filter or screen clean. When my 930 hydraulics get slow a new filter makes a world of difference

I put new filters in when I changed the fluid last summer. It's something I could check though.

 

[DKase]

Is there a reason you cannot put a PTO pump on it, or a pump on the front of the crankshaft? Would move 4 times faster, the valves
would be much better to control, and it could cost less.

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 00:49:51 02/01/21) Is there a reason you cannot put a PTO pump on it, or a pump on the front of the crankshaft? Would move 4 times faster, the valves
would be much better to control, and it could cost less.

I don't think a pump will fit on the front of the tractor. The loader is positioned pretty close to the front of the tractor. As for a PTO operated pump, I'd have to remove it each time I needed to use the PTO. I'd feel better about the whole thing if I could fix the problem and keep everything original. I'll check the operating pressure sometime soon and go from there.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

IIRC the lift cylinders are SA on the 290. Plugs are not in the vents at the top of the cylinders? Do a lift and see if you are getting air flow out of the vents on both cylinders.

Joe

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 03:33:17 02/01/21) IIRC the lift cylinders are SA on the 290. Plugs are not in the vents at the top of the cylinders? Do a lift and see if you are getting air flow out of the vents on both cylinders.

Joe

The loader lifts okay when there is nothing in the bucket, but when the bucket is full of snow I need to rev the engine up to full throttle get it to lift. I'll check the pressures and see what they are.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Some other things to think about:

Is your control valve spool achieving full stoke, stuck spool?, linkage slop?

Does the pump @ full stroke actually load the engine some @ idle?

Can you hear sound of relief valve lift or fluid pressure drop through a restricted passage as in the pump relief or interlock ball check?

If you have to pull the pump check the relief valve, it is more complicated than the simple single spring and ball type. Check for loosened pump inlet pipe bolts and o-ring.

You already know this but a simple pressure check isn't going to tell you any more than you already know unless there is a restriction in the piping/hose(s) from the interlock to the lift cylinders. If the lift cylinders are still SA, back pressure obviously is not a factor either.

Joe

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 01:48:03 02/02/21) Some other things to think about:

Is your control valve spool achieving full stoke, stuck spool?, linkage slop?

Does the pump @ full stroke actually load the engine some @ idle?

Can you hear sound of relief valve lift or fluid pressure drop through a restricted passage as in the pump relief or interlock ball check?

If you have to pull the pump check the relief valve, it is more complicated than the simple single spring and ball type. Check for loosened pump inlet pipe bolts and o-ring.

You already know this but a simple pressure check isn't going to tell you any more than you already know unless there is a restriction in the piping/hose(s) from the interlock to the lift cylinders. If the lift cylinders are still SA, back pressure obviously is not a factor either.

Joe

I've been thinking about this some. I wonder if this has anything to do with the faulty eagle hitch interlock? Another thing that bothers me is that the remote valve, that runs the bucket cylinder, still has the detent balls in it. When I try to center that valve it sometimes jumps past neutral and opens the valve in the other direction. When this happens the long cylinders will start dropping. It also happens when I dump the bucket. I suppose if I don't center the bucket valve correctly the loader won't lift unless I run the engine at full throttle.

I'm pretty sure that the eagle hitch/loader valve is making a full stroke. I went through all that while we were trying to figure out why the eagle hitch was sinking this past summer.

I don't hear anything from the relief valve. Of course it probably won't make any noise if the pump is trying to service both valves at the same time.

I'm thinking I should remove those detent balls in the remote valve. They are pretty tight and makes it difficult to move the lever without exerting a lot of force on the lever, then it will jump past neutral and stroke the valve on the opposite side. I should replace that darn eagle hitch/loader interlock too. It will sometimes cause the loader to slowly lower when I don't want it to.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Yes you should remove the control valve spool detent ball/spring for DA function. Leave the detent ball/spring in the control valve spool for the Eagle hitch & lift cylinders' SA circuits.

What is the deal with the faulty eagle hitch interlock? They usually are pretty much bullet proof absent some very dirty/wet oil.

With the Eagle hitch, try to lift a weight that is similar to the bucket full of snow. Your lift cylinders are 2"??? They should lift more than the Eagle piston.

Joe

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 06:23:58 02/02/21) Yes you should remove the control valve spool detent ball/spring for DA function. Leave the detent ball/spring in the control valve spool for the Eagle hitch & lift cylinders' SA circuits.

What is the deal with the faulty eagle hitch interlock? They usually are pretty much bullet proof absent some very dirty/wet oil.

With the Eagle hitch, try to lift a weight that is similar to the bucket full of snow. Your lift cylinders are 2"??? They should lift more than the Eagle piston.

Joe

I was having trouble with the interlock late last summer. What was happening was the eagle hitch would start sinking as soon as I would put the valve in the neutral position. I had to finally give up on it. Of the three Case tractors I have, ( 300RN, 600B, 530 ) all of them has issues with the hydraulics in some form. So much so that I'm about ready to give up on the Case brand.

 

[Lyndon - AB]

Check the system relief valve before looking at replacing the pump. I made that mistake on my Minneapolis M602. I could only reach 600 psi at full throttle, pump was much easier to get at than the valve bank so I found a used pump and put it on. Same problem. Pulled the valve body out and pulled the relief valve and sure enough, the spool for the relief was bound up halfway down the bore. Got it loosened up, polished the bore, been working great since. Now I have a spare $360 pump on the shelf, lol.

I can't really help more than that, I'm afraid. Not very experienced on Cases, I lurk on this forum mostly for the pictures and the good crew here.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Lyndon in many instances you would be right but this tractor's internal hydraulic pump/system has the relief valve integral in the pump. The pump must be removed for relief valve access which requires many removals to pull the pump.

Definitely the relief valve needs to be qualified prior to ordering a new pump.

Joe

 

[Lyndon - AB]

Thanks Joe, that makes sense. Learned something new today, lol.