Weld a harrow disc??

[4wdtom]

I think I know the answer will ask anyway. I have a disc on a harrow I am rebuilding that is cracked. The crack is circular, about half way around the center spool. Am I wasting my time trying to weld it?

 

[rustred]

Sure you can weld it. V it out and go to it.

 

[4wdtom]

Sure you can weld it. V it out and go to it.

Have you successfully welded a disc? Being tempered I assumed the soft spot around the weld would just crack soon in use.

 

[Russ from MN]

It might depend on the rod you use; the rod has to match the steel being welded. If you use 611 it will probably break right away. And, why are you calling it a harrow? if it has discs, its a disc, a harrow is a totally different implement, either spike-tooth or spring-tooth!

 

[miangus]

Been there, tried that, no success. There is a lot of stress in the hub area. But give it a try you really do not have much to lose unless you have it apart, if so just replace.

 

[DanielW]

Same as above - have tried it to save having to pull apart. But far too high carbon content and other alloying components to make it hold - no matter what pre-heat and rod you use. Best to jsut replace it. Lots of aftermarket options available for any size/configuration of disc. You can almost always find some aftermarket ones that fit - even if the original manufacturer doesn't list/support them

 

[4wdtom]

It might depend on the rod you use; the rod has to match the steel being welded. If you use 611 it will probably break right away. And, why are you calling it a harrow? if it has discs, its a disc, a harrow is a totally different implement, either spike-tooth or spring-tooth!

How about a "disc harrow" as opposed to spike or spring tooth?

Same as above - have tried it to save having to pull apart. But far too high carbon content and other alloying components to make it hold - no matter what pre-heat and rod you use. Best to jsut replace it. Lots of aftermarket options available for any size/configuration of disc. You can almost always find some aftermarket ones that fit - even if the original manufacturer doesn't list/support them

You and miangus above are telling me what I suspected, not worth the trouble.

 

[rustred]

Have you successfully welded a disc? Being tempered I assumed the soft spot around the weld would just crack soon in use.

yes i have on my j. d. 110 disc. spool was broken in half. it was not plain as to what you meant, appears you are referring to the actual disc blade , ? if so no its not worth fooling around welding a disc. dont know why the word harrow is there. a disc and a harrow is 2 different implements.

 

[wh]

Have welded several here. Seem to last and hold up fine. V the break out. Clean, clean , clean. Weld with a 7018 if possible. Have used er70s6 .035 wire successfully also. Was cleaning up a new ground area years ago and coming around a hillside hit some rocks. Snapped the outside front blade. Welded it back and was fine. Actually broke it 3 or 4 more times before i finished. Welded it each time and away i went. Beat replacing with a new blade each time. Original was almost new at time.

 

[hurleyjd]

I have always heard a disk called a disk harrow what gives

 

[timcasbolt]

It might be interesting to try to weld that with stainless steel.

 

[ss55]

I think I know the answer will ask anyway. I have a disc on a harrow I am rebuilding that is cracked. The crack is circular, about half way around the center spool. Am I wasting my time trying to weld it?

Disk harrow blades are made from high-carbon steels like 65Mn, SAE1070, and SAE1080, or specialized alloy steels such as boron steel (e.g., 30MnB5). These steels are chosen for their high strength, wear resistance, and ability to withstand the forces of tilling, especially when heat-treated to a hardness range of approximately 38-44 HRC.

I suspect if you are skilled enough to successfully weld cracked disk blades that hold up in the field you could make really good money welding other things instead.

 

[wh]

Disk harrow blades are made from high-carbon steels like 65Mn, SAE1070, and SAE1080, or specialized alloy steels such as boron steel (e.g., 30MnB5). These steels are chosen for their high strength, wear resistance, and ability to withstand the forces of tilling, especially when heat-treated to a hardness range of approximately 38-44 HRC.

I suspect if you are skilled enough to successfully weld cracked disk blades that hold up in the field you could make really good money welding other things instead.

Yes but you can farm and keep your old beat up equipment fixed and have a lot of fun while making a lot less money.

 

[Sbird]

It's my understanding that a round disk is a disk, a disk harrow isn't completely round but has scallops to it for more cutting surface.

 

[Jim.ME]

It might depend on the rod you use; the rod has to match the steel being welded. If you use 611 it will probably break right away. And, why are you calling it a harrow? if it has discs, its a disc, a harrow is a totally different implement, either spike-tooth or spring-tooth!

A disc harrow is a type of harrow, just as the spike-tooth and spring-tooth you mention are types of harrows, and there are other, not as common types.

 

[Jim.ME]

It's my understanding that a round disk is a disk, a disk harrow isn't completely round but has scallops to it for more cutting surface.

A disc harrow can have plain (smooth round edge) discs, notched edge discs, or a combination of both types. Some companies make wavy edge discs as well.

 

[Russ from MN]

Have welded several here. Seem to last and hold up fine. V the break out. Clean, clean , clean. Weld with a 7018 if possible. Have used er70s6 .035 wire successfully also. Was cleaning up a new ground area years ago and coming around a hillside hit some rocks. Snapped the outside front blade. Welded it back and was fine. Actually broke it 3 or 4 more times before i finished. Welded it each time and away i went. Beat replacing with a new blade each time. Original was almost new at time.

7018 would be better than 6011, but there are a lot better rods available, we had some 11018 in the paper mill, and another rod called super missile weld, very versatile for welding dissimilar metals and tool steel.

 

[paul]

It probably won’t hold up, but a lot of folk give it a try and sometimes it works for a while.

‘Disk harrow’ seems to be a southern term for a disk.

Up here in the north we have a disk. Circular blades that cut and throw the ground a bit.

A harrow, aka drag, which is short metal spikes on a frame.

A field cultivator, aka digger. Light shanks that have cultivator shovels that lift and air out the ground, much more popular than a disk in our wet clay soils.

A chisel plow or ripper. Heavy deep shanks that shatter the ground and might turn it a little with lightly curved blades. The ripper will have even deeper reaching heavy shanks to get below the plow pan.

Plow or molboard plow. Typical usual plow that lifts and rolls the dirt over.

Paul

 

[rustred]

This is a set of versatile harrows , nothing to do with a disc.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Another vote that it's a fools errand to weld it - for two reasons:
1) it WILL BREAK.
2) It would ruin your day to find the broken piece or pieces in one of your tires.