Welding 35 at back end

Dano41

Member
Hi could anyone tell me the best way to fix this damaged lug at the back of tractor.
mvphoto61424.jpg
 
I have never tried to weld one , few people do. If you need support on
the outside , nothing majorly heavy you can fabricate a bracket in
1/2” plate perhaps and attach it using longer axle housing
bolts/studs.
DavidP, South Wales
 
What’s broke is only used for certain implements.
Some mowers and swinging draw bar. Not used very often.
There’s a pin that goes through all three. Will not hurt
anything unless you want to use.
 
I broke a pair of 'eyes' like that on my Mahindra and asked my brother in law if he could weld them. he told me he could but would rather braze them. he did a real good job on them and they have never given me any trouble.
 
Thank you for the replies.The main thing I’ll be using on this is
the Ferguson Tbar auto hitch.If it were brazed would there still
be a danger of the cast cracking is it just cast iron?
 

I'm thinking cast steel, but not sure. You can check with a grinder. If the sparks are yellow, it's cast, more whitish will be cast steel. Get a piece you know is cast iron and compare sparks.
 

It isn't cast steel , it isn't normal cast iron either.
The rear ends are fast from Spheroidal cast iron , a very different metal that combines some of the easy casting properties of grey cast iron and the toughness and flexibility of steel .
It welds Very well , almost as well as mild steel .
Typical deep V cutting and the use of the right rod will create a good repair. No need for preheat or long cooling
processes either .
I can't help with the type of rod , I have forgotten what's used , but they are not the ones used on normal cast iron .
 
Charles thats a great bit of info thank you did you do this paticular type of weld many times is there any way you could find out which rod you used?
 

Sorry Dano , I seem to recall using rods for stainless steel but might be thinking of another job . Nickel content rods ring a bell too but I have long since used all the rods I had so can't check to see what they were.
Try the welding shop like suggested but I'm pretty sure they will tell you it is just plain cast iron and that is wrong.
A designer that worked at MF in the 60's and 70's explained the composition of the metal to me . As close to the horse's mouth as you can get .
 

They were nickle iron rods Dano . The Spheroidal graphite cast iron or Ductile cast iron is far more flexible than white or grey cast and so it can withstand the cracking that happens if you don't pre heat and slow cool the casting . Google Spheroidal Graphite iron , it explains how the round graphite particles stop cracks unlike the flaked graphite used in other cast irons .
Be careful , go slow and peen the weld a bit while still warm . Once welded it will grind easily and look as if nothing has happened to it after a bit of paint .
 
I weld cast iron all the time. Brazing is great but I Mig weld broken
pieces all the time. I would not arc weld it. A good welding shop
could Mig it. Bring it to Cape Cod and I’ll do it
 
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