Welding Helmet

[Hemmjo]

My antique welding helmet is on its last leg. I need the get a new one.
I just have an old Lincoln 225 buzz box but it works for me so far.

Thinking of getting one that auto darkens but there are so many with
such wide variation in price. I hate buying cheap tools then realizing I
wasted that money. Then have to spend more to get something that
works. But I also hate spending a chunk only to discover it is no
better than a cheap one.

Any suggestions or guidance? What is the difference between one
that is $69.99 and one that is $600+ ?

 

[Geo-TH,In]

In 2000 I bought this helmet off amazon.

YESWELDER Large Viewing Solar Powered Auto Darkening Welding Helmet, True Color Highest Optical 1/1/1/1, 4 Arc Sensor Wide Shade 4/5-9/9-13 Welder Mask Hood EH-091XP,One size.

It has 4 different darkening settings, which I needed so I could see when using the mig welder.

I'm very happy with it.
It is cheaper on Cyber Monday.

 

[mjsnodgrass]

the cheapest helmet at the local welding store will probably be lots better than the most expensive big box store helmet. try them all on. get one that fits and is comfortable. good luck

 

[Janicholson]

Miller, Hobart, Jackson, Granger, MCI, Brand names are best, as are solar powered, as are flip up grinding shield built in. If you need cheaters consider magnifying lenses. If you need larger viewing area consider square lens types with about 4 inch openings. 125 to 170 is a solid price range for moderate use reliable head gear and comfort. Jim
one option

 

[Stephen Newell]

If you don't weld a lot I would just get a cheap one. I've had a harbor freight welding helmet for about 5 years and it's just now going bad. It still works but I have to be sure to set it in the sun for a couple hours to charge the battery before using it. They have it made where the battery isn't replaceable so if I had a large job I would replace it.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Something about the having cheapest of cheap protecting my eyes just didn't make sense so I bought what Hobart now calls the Creator series. It has a few features the cheapos don't have and does everything I need it to do. It was $80 4 years ago, near $100 now. What ever you get jot down the battery size and go to eBay and buy 10 for the cost of one locally. The better helmets charge the batteries while welding and will charge if left out in the sun but who has time for that when you need to weld?

 

[TimV]

As was said, there's places for economy, but to my way of thinking, protecting the only pair of eyes I have is NOT one of them. I had a cheapie auto-darkening helmet, but after several bad flashing episodes where the helmet didn't darken fast enough I went with a better one from the local welding supply center, and have never regretted it. There are several things a better helmet will get you besides better protection, such as larger viewing area, clearer optics, better headgear (often the part that breaks first on cheap helmets, and a source of frustration when they won't stay up, down, or in adjustment) and parts like batteries and viewing glass made to be serviced rather than replacing the entire helmet. Even a casual welder can quickly and permanently damage their eyes by substandard shielding, and it just makes sense to protect them, as adequate shielding is the ONLY protection your eyes have--if you're going to weld, you're going to have to look at the arc, and the only thing between you and that arc is your shield.

 

[wp6529]

I have an expensive Jackson EQC Executive HTLS I got years ago when I bought my Synchrowave. I also have a couple HF autos and other than the smaller window they are just as good. HF has a large window model or two now and I wouldn't hesitate to use one of them.

 

[MJMJ]

The only slight issue I have with my HF auto darkening is that its a little tough to see the puddle when using a wire welder. Almost like you need a light on it. My Hobart is much better in that regard, but otherwise the HF works quite well.
For occasional stick welding, I wouldn t hesitate to use the HF helmet.

 

[Russ from MN]

I have a Speedglas that I was issued at work 25 years ago, it works great. I keep expecting to have to put new batteries in it, but it keeps working fine.

 

[Steve@Advance]

The problem I have found with the cheap ones is not the darkening ability, but the mechanical aspects. The head band, hinges, clips and clamps that hold the works in the front, they tend to be poorly made and break, wear out, fail to stay adjusted.

If this is for personal use and not used every day, a Harbor Freight one will last several years.

But if used regularly, or by different people, best make the investment in a good name brand. Another advantage to the good ones is prolonged availability of replacement parts.

Problem is there is a big jump in price from the cheap ones to the good ones.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Mine may not in your opinion be the best, but I have found mine to be all I need.

Where are all the best ones made in the USA or China?

 

[moresmoke]

I have a $400+ Miller helmet that is my go to. The number of adjustment and clarity of the view are what is best about it. Con is it is hard on batteries.

I also have a 25+ year old Jackson that has been a great helmet, was one of the first large lens auto dark helmets. I think Ive only changed the batteries 4 times in all those years.

I have also used cheap HF auto helmets over the years and had no major complaints.

There are 3 things I would look for when shopping a welding helmet. View area, bigger is better. Adjustable shade, 10-12 will cover most uses. Last is the number and position of sensors. My Miller has 4 sensors, 1 at each corner of the viewing area. No matter how you are positioned, it will see the arc. Some of the low end filters only use a single pv cell, you can be positioned so it is blocked and get flashed. Although there is enough tint to the lens at all times to prevent serious damage.

 

[old]

Since back when the auto dark helmets came out I have learned to hate them due to too many times in the hospital due to working side by side with other welders and the auto dark not coming on when the guy next to you started a weld. I only use 24 carrot gold lens in my welding helmets

 

[Tgrasher]

I've used a cheap one for years now and no complaints. Had to change 2032 battery once. Forgot to turn it on once, won't do that again
I wiil say, once you use an auto darkening, you won't go back to the other.

 

[M-MAN]

I agree completely! In my case I only have one eye that works so it's extra important. Way back when the auto darks first came out I was at our local industrial supply house picking up some rods when they showed me one. It was an Arc One made in Sweden. It was light as a feather and self charging but with a $200+ price tag. That was more than I brought home in a week. A few weeks later I bought it and never regretted spending the money. Years later I got a spare from a friend who didn't weld for $50. I still have and use both. The only drawback is they are the small windows.

I bought a Harbor Freight one several years ago while away from home and needed to do some welding. It was pitiful and I gave it to a kid at the shop when I left. I also have a Hobart adjustable I picked up a few years ago for wire welding. It's decent but way to heavy so it never stays in place.

In my opinion a good auto dark is just as important as a good welder and with either one you get what you pay for.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I guess I'm in the contrary since I still use an old paper/fiber hood with a 2x4 lens that has the glass to cover the lens.I can change the clear glass in front of the colored lens so it lasts a long time. I'm not willing to chance a flash to a dead battery or failed electrical junk. I have not needed to change the clear glass in several years now. It is probably about time. As for a lighter lens than a 10 just so you can see the puddle on a wire machine will give eye damage. 10 is the least for that. Cutting with the torch you should use at least a 5 for night vision protection according to the local supply guys they tell me that a cutting torch without protection will damage your night vision. I'm not telling any one what to use just relaying information from them. I hold my hood instead of wearing it when welding anyway. Never liked the hair pulling from them.

 

[wp6529]

The "arc flash" you might get if you block the sensor on an auto lens *is not harmful*. The UV and IR filtering on an auto lens is there 100% of the time, sensor blicked, battery dead, doesn't matter it still filters UV and IR wavelengths.

With a large lens auto dark the rest of the helmet matters a lot less since you don't need to flip it up to reposition or adjust your setup like you do with a fixed lens. With any lens auto or fixed a good strong worklight can help with overall visibility as can blocking light coming in from behind your helmet.

 

[TimV]

wp6529: I do not know where you got that information, but it's dangerously incorrect. The full darkeness of a lens is needed to protect against arc flash, and the subsequent permanent eye damage it causes. In some cases--large rods at high heats, for instance, even the standard range of most autodarkening helmets may not be sufficient, though most casual welders are not as apt to have the need for--or the equipment capable of--pushing those boundaries.

 

[oldproudvet]

You're only issue 1 pair of eyes.......... I'm not a pro welder, I've an arc and a Miller wire here on the farm, the wire getting the most usage. Like mentioned below the # of sensors is very important. My welding supply outfit up here in MN is in Little Falls and they handle all brands but there knowledge sold me on the Miller. Around 450 a couple of years ago. I love it. The headband is adjustable in a number of spots giving me a good solid fit. The large viewing area is awesome along with the lenses for different eye corrections meaning no glasses to fog under the helmet. Also mentioned below is the battery deal, but it uses common ol button batteries available everywhere cheap. I keep a few on hand as other devices use them too. My 20 year old Speedaire never needed a battery but technology left that relic in the dust. There is a learning curve with the more expensive units, but patience will win and you'll learn to appreciate it. My 2 bits - Larry