Welding rod question

300jk

Well-known Member
I'm off today because the high winds cause power to be out at our shop. So
working on a welding project for my dad at my little shop today. I have an
old Lincwelder ac180k from the 50's I absolutely love. I usually burn
6011, 6013, and 7014 rod. I haven't used it in a while and the only rod I
have is 1/8 6013. Rod is old and even stored in one of the plastic
holders seems a little damp. I have had some luck in the past drying out
damp rod. Right now I have a handful sitting on top of the shop
woodstove. When you guys have damp rod do you dry it, and use it, or do
you try to use it the way it is ? I always try to make sure mine stays dry
but that don't always happen. I know most guys that weld a lot have a rod
oven, either bought or something they made. I don't do enough here to
justify that. Just throwing out a question while waiting a few minutes on
the 6013 to dry a bit.
 
I know some guys put them in the house oven I don't know how high or how long , but someone here will tell you
 
This page from Lincoln says to pre-dry their 6013 electrodes at 200-230F for 30-45 minutes followed by heating to 300-350F for 20-30 minutes. Other manufacturers are probably similar but you should try finding out from them if you can.
 
Hello 300jk,


You can dry them in the BBQ. 3 seconds hot. Time that you can hold your hand over the grates. I would think 15 minutes at that heat should get you by
. You can leave the lid open,

Guido.
 
Recently someone on here said they knew someone that soaked their rods in water before using, I have never tried it and it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I try to keep mine as dry as possible, just in plastic bags in a plastic tool box. I always understood it most important with low-hydrogen, 7018.
 
My welding rods are just in open containers in the shop and with all the humidity and rain we have, I have never dried the rods before using them.
Try a few and see how they do.
An old cousin who worked in WWII shipyard showed me how to weld cast iron by soaking whatever rods I had in water for a while. Worked great
Richard in wet soggy NW SC
 
I have heard of people doing that too ! I usually don't have an issue. This rod was pretty old and had been hot cold a few times. Was 50 here yesterday and now 15. I think the quick temp change had a bunch to do with condensation.
 
I always have bad luck with slightly wet or damp rods. Always seems like the flux wants to crumble and fall off. Interesting about welding cast with wet rod. I have welded a bunch of cast, but have always used Ni rod. Always had real good results if preheated, welded, penned with heat applied and cooled slow. Maybe next time I'll try the wet rod just for the heck of it. Thanks !
 
Kinda like what I did today on top of the woodstove. Seemed to work good ! Thanks Guido! How is your flu doing ?
 
Wow that seems like a lot of drying ! Interesting! Thanks for the link. I
read if as soon as I get a chance !
 
Hello 300jk,

Not too bad thanks. Still a bit of cough, got meds still to go. 75% better at least,

Guido.
 
I've never dried my rods either, and also wet, humid, lowlands area. I keep my rods in a length of PVC pipe with tight fitting end caps; one end glued in place. "So far", have never had a problem using rods that were several years old, but have noticed sometimes lesser performance than when new.
 
If you wish to dry them throw them in the house oven for 15 mins or so.
Wet/damp rods are more likely to cause porous welds due to the H (as in H2O) in them.
However, maybe one in 15 or 20 "farm or hobby" guys are actually good enough welders that a bit of moisture or porosity will make a difference.
Plus, it's only the first half inch or so of the rod that matters since when you burn it down that far the rod gets hot enough to evaporate all moisture out of the remaining rod anyway.
I say unless you are trying to weld some kind of a really fancy certified weld that will be Xrayed don't worry about it.
Most of us aren't a good enough welders for a little porosity to matter.
 
High School shop teacher had us soak welding rods in water before using them to cut with. I don't remember what number the rods were.

Dusty
 
6010 and 6011 electrodes love moisture; if someone is deliberately soaking their rods in water it's probably one of those two. Moisture is bad for just about everything else.
 
Usually i just weld with them as is, but if i feel like they need to be dried i'll just stick the rod on purpose and let it heat up enough to boil the water out, only takes a few seconds.
 
6010 and 6011 have a cellulose coating, and can contain as much as 10% water. The other commonly used electrodes (6013,7014,7018,7024, and 7028) have a rutile or ceramic flux which must be dry. Damp electrodes may sometimes be salvaged by warming or baking, but I wouldn't use them on a critical job. The old trick of dunking an electrode in water applies ONLY to the 6010 or 6011 series. unc
 
If you long arc the rod and pause at your start puddle the rod will dry itself. The pause will blow out the flux before you start moving. I keep 6013's for general use. 6011"s for dirty metal and root passes and the hallowed 7018"s for structural stuff. Tractors put more stress on welds than stationary pipe. I store my rods in an old microwave my wife doesn't know about and heat the 7018's in a toaster oven on low for 30 minutes before I start. When the steel gets thicker than 1/2" I'll preheat with a torch so I can run on lower amps when using my AC welder from the 60"s. There are some good instructions at weld.com.
 
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