What am I doing wrong??

[JimH]

Rebuilt the engine on my 51 8N. Runs like a champ, except for the oil leaks at the two rope seals. I soaked them for 48 hours in 30 weight, pressed them into place, cut them flush, put on the oil pan gasket,( which extends between the two halves, torqued to specs, and wallah they leak, alot! Why or what is the white material, cuz that all oozed out with the oil. Just plain stymied.

 

[L B]

Dont be to hard on yourself you can do it right and still have problems with china or india parts.I offset the rope seams from the block and pan seams. The block and pan seams are at 9 and 3 o-clock, I put the rope seams at 9:15 and 3:15 o-clock.When you say bad leak do you mean you can watch it drip or is it 3 or 4 drops overnight? If you can watch it drip I would say your rope is rolled,bunched. or in some kind of a bind cause of something foreign in the grooves. If its slow give it some time and see if it stops.There are two other things.Did you remember to tighten the pan bolts up front that are easy to miss. Did you walk the bolts up a little at a time and alternate side to side front to back.

 

[Tom N MS]

Don"t cut em flush-leave em a little proud--enough that the ends sqush together and seal off-I also put a dab of ultra gray sealant on the ends just to be sure...another thought--install the one piece seal on the front and be done with it.-still have to use rope on the rear.

 

[Den N Ms]

Jim,Before you tear it down again give it some time.Even though the rope seals should have been cut say about 1/32"proud.And though you cut the seals off flush.Give it some time and they will swell up and the leak should stop.Like Tom said I use a dab of gray rtv on the ends to prevent leaks on a fresh rebuild.

 

[JimH]

While I did cut them flush I had hoped that the paper oil pan gasket would kind of act like a filler, or at least act like I left them proud. The oil is coming out in drips and quite a lot, but, the last time I moved the tractor into the barn there were less drips in the dirt so maybe they are taking thier sweet time expanding. Best I can do is watch it and check the level a lot. If not better by this fall, I'll tear it downyet again. Thanks all for your help.

 

[ZANE]

The original Ford rope seals did not require cutting. They were manufactured to exact specifications and were installed as they came.

The Chinese parts are "allmost right" and that is as close as they come to being right.

I use a caliper to measure the size of the crank where the seal rides and then measuer a socket that is close to that size. Lay the socket into the new seal after it is installed and hammer the socket into the seal to size it to the crank. Then if too much is proude I would cut it down to within about 0,030 or so above the metal.

Oil it good before installing the crankshaft. I never did soak them???? Never had a leak.

Zane

 

[Hobo,NC]

I have my way of doing it its in the archives...

I have NEVER liked the rear seals offered even from fel-pro (Fel-pro are to big are to dang small). I have been into a few virgin N's and they had a limp graphite type rope seal nuttin like I have seen offered from TISCO are the like... TISCO seals (white rope harder than chines arithmetic) are no were close to the original rope seal...

This link shows the original style seal used... look under products...

http://www.bestgasket.com/

I cut'em flush to my like'n others may vary... Oil the surface once installed that's zit... Link



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