i start my bales at at slow rpm and mph. then once they are started giver the go. you need a good heavy windrow. them light windrows are what cause problems.Finally got a bale to start and now this.
Straighten out the belts. It’s a chore.Finally got a bale to start and now this.
There is a trick to get the twist out of the belts without too much trouble. You can probably google or look it up on YouTube as that is how I think I found out about it. You take and cup the twisted belt ( do one at a time) and, holding securely with vise grips tie a piece of baler twine around it to hold it in the cupped position and then cycle it through the baler. Sometimes it takes more than one cycle and sometimes the string will break and you have to retie it and start over. I’ve had to use this trick many times on my Vermeer 500i baler in the field. My baler has the twist in the front belts so I can watch the bale. I also used it on a Hesston 530 baler that I used to run. Hope it works for you.Finally got a bale to start and now this.
That looks like a later model NH baler like mine, very few of them have been scrapedFlipped belts are usually caused by uneven feeding of the hay, and damp spots will make it worse. Usually happen when the formed core is still fairly small. Those flips aren’t the same as belts flipped intentionally, they’re flipped twice and running it like that will usually lead to torn belts/lacing. When belts are flipped intentionally, they’re flipped once, 180 degrees. A side to B side. When they flip on their own, there are two flips, A side to B side, then back to A side. To get them out, you’ll have to use something like a come-a-long to lift the roller in the baler that adjusts with the size of the bale to get the pressure off the belts. Doesn’t take long once you figure out what needs done.
Now that you figured out what that baler needs to start a bale, work on feeding hay evenenly across the width of the baler. Those balers have a sizable learning curve. Its why most have long since been scrapped.
Its an old MF, basically a copy of a Vermeer C. Most are long gone.That looks like a later model NH baler like mine, very few of them have been scraped
Loosening the belts is easy by raising the tail gate and flipping a lever, then lower the tail gate some till the belts are loose enough to work with
If it’s a older model you place a pin the the tension rack then lower the gate
The photos above looks like the tailgate on a HN 648 4x5 baler with the rear panel removedIts an old MF, basically a copy of a Vermeer C. Most are long gone.
Its an old MF, basically a copy of a Vermeer C. Most are long gone.
You're absolutely right. I had this confused with another thread.The photos above looks like the tailgate on a HN 648 4x5 baler with the rear panel removed
Ignore my last sentence in this reply. I had this thread confused with anther and thought it was a different baler. But those flipped belts still need fixed before baling any more.Flipped belts are usually caused by uneven feeding of the hay, and damp spots will make it worse. Usually happen when the formed core is still fairly small. Those flips aren’t the same as belts flipped intentionally, they’re flipped twice and running it like that will usually lead to torn belts/lacing. When belts are flipped intentionally, they’re flipped once, 180 degrees. A side to B side. When they flip on their own, there are two flips, A side to B side, then back to A side. To get them out, you’ll have to use something like a come-a-long to lift the roller in the baler that adjusts with the size of the bale to get the pressure off the belts. Doesn’t take long once you figure out what needs done.
Now that you figured out what that baler needs to start a bale, work on feeding hay evenenly across the width of the baler. Those balers have a sizable learning curve. Its why most have long since been scrapped.
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