What part is this

[David Bond]

1952, 8N, sd, 6v,
Have the hydralic cover off to check some linkage and can not figure out what this pin does. Have looked in all th manuals and just can"t figure it out/

David

 

[Dell (WA)]

David......see that little square block under yer pin??? it goes into the side of the block. Simple, eh? ......Dell

 

[David Bond]

Thanks Dell, I just went out and checked. That block is already has a pin in it from the same lever.

 

[Dunk]

When the piston gets as far out as it is supposed to go, it hits that pin and moves the linkage to stop it from going up farther.

 

[David Bond]

Thanks Dunk. I suspected that this might be the function of this pin, but should the lever go so far forward to hit the cylinder housing. Would this be an indication that my springs are out of adjustment or worn linkage. The pin is actually bent towards the rear of the tractor.

David

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 06:12:21 01/30/10) Thanks Dunk. I suspected that this might be the function of this pin, but should the lever go so far forward to hit the cylinder housing. Would this be an indication that my springs are out of adjustment or worn linkage. The pin is actually bent towards the rear of the tractor.

David

With it out of the tractor like that there is not much to restrict the movement.

I am pretty sure that mine would hit the cylinder.

Actually the skirt of the piston should not come out of the cylinder very far before hitting, and moving the pin.

Probably the quickest, easiest, and most reliable way to know about the spring adjustment is with Zane's jig, and adjustment procedure.

There was a website, that had a "how to" using a framing square to do the same thing as Zane's jig, but I think that site disappeared when AOL Hometown was shut down.

 

[Dean]

David:

You have an aftermarket cylinder in your tractor.

The aftermarket cylinders are not properly machined as per the OEM cylinders, and the control arm interferes with the cylinder preventing the arm from traveling fully forward (toward the cylinder) as required for proper operation.

If you still have the OEM cylinder, inspect it for differences near the open end of the cylinder. You will see that the open end of the cylinder is tapered to provide clearence to prevent the control arm from contacting the cylinder housing before the pin in question comes in contact with the open end of the housing.

You can grind the cylinder housing with a die grinder to provide the needed clearance but you will need to mark it where grinding is necessary before removing it.

Dean

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 09:08:43 01/30/10) David:

You have an aftermarket cylinder in your tractor.

The aftermarket cylinders are not properly machined as per the OEM cylinders, and the control arm interferes with the cylinder preventing the arm from traveling fully forward (toward the cylinder) as required for proper operation.

If you still have the OEM cylinder, inspect it for differences near the open end of the cylinder. You will see that the open end of the cylinder is tapered to provide clearence to prevent the control arm from contacting the cylinder housing before the pin in question comes in contact with the open end of the housing.

You can grind the cylinder housing with a die grinder to provide the needed clearance but you will need to mark it where grinding is necessary before removing it.

Dean

Thanks, Dean.

Now I understand what he meant by it hitting the cylinder.

 

[Dean]

I should also have mentinoned that the draft control swivel will also contact the aftermarket cylinders so it must also be relieved in this area for proper operation.

Dean

 

[ZANE]

As soon as I saw that ram cylinder I knew it was a Chinese made piece of junk. The casting is about three times as thick as the Ford casting for the ram cylinder and as you can see the linkage is coming in contact with the casting. It should not touch the casting anywhere! Better grind off enough relief where the linkage is touching or the lift will never work right. If it can't move freely it sure can't work right!

The pin you point to is the neutral pin. It is designed to pull the control lever toward the back of the tractor and control valve into the neutral position when the ram cylinder piston comes partially out of the ram cylinder. If it does't do it's job the lift will just keep on pushing till something either bends or breaks. You pin has experianced some extreme pressure to have been bent that way. Probably a sticking valve at some time did it. It really needs to be straight. I think I would heat it and bend it back straight being careful not to heat the control rod too. Or knock it out or press it out and get a new one. I think it is probably a common dowel pin but not positive about that since the cam follower pin is not a common dowel pin size but .003 smaller than the common dowel pin hardware.

Zane