which brake drum puller?

[Brad_bb]

Can somebody point me to a brake drum puller I can use on my 55 Ford 960? I have an Eastwood one, but really it's too light duty. I used it tonight to put pressure on the drum while I use a small hammer to work it off. Well one of the jaws bent/broke. Like it said, it's too light duty. So can anyone tell me which one to buy?
Thanks,
Brad_bb
IL
PS. I restored the tractor 2 years ago, except for the rear wheels and brakes, finally getting to it before mowing season starts.

 

[showcrop]

I have not used a puller myself. These drums seem to get an awful ridge that the shoes hang up on. I just kept tapping the edge with my BFH while turning the drum and finally worked them off. The actual breaking free was not that big a deal.

 

[Bill Radford]

When I re did my brakes on my 641 I did not use a puller. I released the adjuster all the way, then I tapped around the inside edge for a few minutes.
Its true that the ridge where the drum is worn is usually the problem.Although sometimes it sticks where the hub fits inside the drum on the face. A little penetrating oil and some heat will usually take care of it. Be patient.

 

[Dean]

I"ve never needed a brake drum puller and doubt that you will have much luck with one on vintage Ford tractors. The drums are steel rather than cast.

Patience, penetrating oil, and a decent brass hammer will do the job.

Sometimes you may need to remove paint and rust from the axle in order to remove the drum. I use a wire brush.

Dean

 

[Texasmark1]

I made one out of 2" 11 ga steel square tubing. Later on today
when I go to the shop I may take a picture of it and post it.

In 3 pieces (one cross piece and 2 vertical all welded up, it
basically reaches across two opposite lug studs, then vertical
down the sides of the drum with notches cut out to fit over the
exterior ridges on the drum.

The length of the vertical part is such that when the notches fit
over the drum, the bar across the top is slightly above the top of
the lug studs.

Putting on two lug nuts first, you slide the rig in place, centered
over the two opposing lug bolts with the slits positioned as close
to center on the drum as possible.

Then just back the lug nuts off and in doing so you put a great
deal of pressure on the drum....using grease on the lugs to help
them turn.

Since the drum is steel, not cast, heat, penetrating oil and a good
maul in the area of the lug bolts gets the job done.....with a little
residual fire but no big deal.

Don't forget to run the brake adjusters all the way in.

See what I can do.

Mark

 

[Texasmark1]

I made a new post out of this under the title "My Shop Made Ford Brake Drum Puller".

HTH,
Mark

 

[Brad_bb]

I suppose I could make that tool, but I was hoping to buy one so I didn't have to take the time to make one, and that a puller with jaws may be able to work with other size drums as opposed to being a one application tool. Thanks for the input, good things to consider.

 

[Detmurds]

I just pulled my brake drum off with my hands. Could this be a problem for me?

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 23:07:51 03/25/13) I just pulled my brake drum off with my hands. Could this be a problem for me?

More than likely the last person who put your brakes together put a little anti-
seize in the right spots so your drums didn't rust on.
That, and maybe they hadn't been on and adjusted long enough to wear into the drums.
I wouldn't worry about it as long as they go back together and work correctly once adjusted.

 

[Brad_bb]

I never did get a response as to whether there is a commercially available puller that would help me with drum removal? The Eastwood one I have is too light duty as one of the hooks bent/broke.