White 2-105 Engine removal

[hayray]

The IT shop manual says I have to remove the fuel tank, by looking at if I pull out the engine with the powershift seems like I can pull it forward and up
and not have to remove the tank doesn't seem like there's anyway to take the tank out otherwise without lifting up the cab, any experiences and
answers thank you ?

 

[rrlund]

Bad news. The IT manual is right. I've pulled mine twice,the front of the cab has to be lifted. The second time I pulled it,I looked it over real good trying to figure out how to avoid it.

The service manager at the AGCO dealer delivered mine when I bought it. We were standing in the yard talking about what a pain it was to pull the motor on my 2-135 when I put a clutch in that. He told me I hadn't seen anything yet. He said the 2-85 and 2-105 with a cab were the worst Oliver or Whites that there ever were for doing a clutch job. He said the cab has to be lifted.

If you try what you're thinking,the curve of the frame won't let it come ahead far enough.

I have one advantage with mine,it doesn't have the lower fuel tank,so I can put a floor jack under the right side and stand a 4x4 on it to jack it up.

You'll have to pull up the floor mat,unbolt the cab floor and lift it up over the shift. Take out the front cab mount bolts. The rear mounts,don't unbolt the rubber mounts,take the front bolts out of the brackets that bolt to the axle housings and loosen the back ones. Use those loose bolts as a hinge. The front has to come up about 8 inches.

The most aggravating and time consuming part about it is putting it back together and getting those two rubber molding strips back in between the cab and dash. I Had to lift the cab a third time on mine last summer to tip the dash back to get a broken steel line out that goes to the steering motor. One of those strips still isn't back in right.

I've split my 1365 FWA twice to put a new clutch in it. I'd rather do ten clutch jobs in one of those than do one in a 2-105. Don't under estimate how heavy that engine is. For some reason it seems twice as heavy as the same engine in my 1850. That bugger strained the loader just as bad as that big 478 Hercules in the 2-135.

 

[scootergmc]

(quoted from post at 04:43:05 02/11/20) The IT shop manual says I have to remove the fuel tank, by looking at if I pull out the engine with the powershift seems like I can pull it forward and up
and not have to remove the tank doesn't seem like there's anyway to take the tank out otherwise without lifting up the cab, any experiences and
answers thank you ?

I believe a friend of mine just did it. I remember him talking about it... I'll check.

 

[scootergmc]

Ok, he did not loosen the cab. He said to take everything off the back of the engine, take out the brackets under the tank on the engine side, take off the hydraulic steering lines that run over the tank to the front. Then you can tilt the tank down in front and slide it back towards the cab. You can keep tipping it forward and lift it out over the engine between the cab and valve covers.

 

[rrlund]

Not gonna say it can't be done,but I'd like to watch it done to see how. It'll slide back some,but when you get it back there,you have so much tank behind the rear carrier that the geometry doesn't work when you try to tip it up. It still hits the cab frame under the windshield. Not calling anybody a liar,don't get me wrong,but the guys in the shop at the dealer haven't even figured out how to get one out that way yet.

 

[scootergmc]

I don't know what to tell you. If he's lying I'm a monkey's uncle.

 

[rrlund]

Like I said,not calling him a liar,I'd just like to see it done for future reference. I've tried and couldn't get it out of there no how.

 

[Mitch Poindexter]

We've got one at the house right now that needs to come out and be replaced. I'm happy to let you both come out and pull it once each way and I'll time you. Buy the winner a beer. When can I expect you?

 

[scootergmc]

Hahahhaaa

 

[hunt]

We lifted the cab on the first few until a guy at the old dealer showed us how to get them out also. The explanation scooter described is
about as I remember it. The back of the tank comes out first for sure. It can really be a toss up though if you have big hands. Getting room
to get the bolts out that hold the rear plate and support to the rear of the engine can be tough but so can be getting all the screws out of
the floor pan if they haven't been replaced with bolts. I will have to look in the white manual and see if it shows the procedure. Taking the
fuel tank out of these makes putting a chain coupler together in an 1850 easy.

 

[rrlund]

I want to go second so I can learn how to do it without lifting the cab and doing it the hard way so I don't have to do it at all. I looked that thing over six ways from Sunday the second time,trying to figure out how to do it without lifting that cab again,I couldn't figure it out. There's just zero clearance between the cab and tank. If you can figure it out,shoot a video would you?

After lifting that cab three times,I might win the contest timewise,but like I said,getting that weather stripping back in when you put it back together is what's time consuming. It's enough to make a preacher swear.

 

[oldwrencher]

scootergmc is correct. take the support out below the front of the tank plus anything over the top. lower the front ant the tilt will allow tank removal with the cab in place. Been a while but when working did this several times on 2-105/2-85 tractors with cab

 

[2-strokeDD]

Scootergmc is right it can be done without raising the cab. I have done it several times. Like he said everything behind the engine needs to be removed.It still isn't easy but can be done.

 

[hayray]

Ok guys, thanks for all the advice, I see that curve in the frame that prevents the engine from going straight forward very far that rrlund mentioned. I'm just gonna jack up the front of the cab seems like kinda a hassle otherwise without someone there showing me. How far up does it need to go? How heavy you think engine with the power shift is?

 

[hayray]

Oh I just read your description about how high, thanks

 

[hayray]

I'm almost tempted to try that

 

[hrRoss]

I think you only need to raise the front of cab about 3", from what I remember

 

[hayray]

Thanks

 

[J.Wondergem]

I don't know if it's like a 2255 or not, but if it is and your three point is raised all the way up, watch the cab at the back by the three point arms when you jack up the front of the cab. You'll have more room if you drop the them down.

 

[rrlund]

I think the clearance there is alright,but something I should have mentioned is the parking brake. Make sure it's released and the wheels are blocked. I had the brake set the first time and it popped the latch.

 

[hayray]

Ok great, thanks for tip, might go up to Crackle Barrel next week

 

[rrlund]

What day is John talking? I haven't heard from him. I have to take my pesticide renewal exam on the 20th,I told him that. Any other day works for me,as long as crookedrows can be there the same day so I can get those grain drill parts from him.

 

[crooked rows]

The last I heard it was 11 AM on the 18th and I'm planning on being there.

 

[rrlund]

OK,I'll plan on being there. I'm sure he'll send me an email,if not,I'll send one to him to be sure.

 

[hayray]

After taking out the radiator do you think I can leave the condenser that?s up in front of the radiator and I still get the engine forward and up trying to do this without having to open up my AC system?

 

[rrlund]

Yes,just lay it over to the side. Leave the compressor and condenser both. I only remove the rad and oil cooler. This is the 2-135,but you get the idea.

 

[hayray]

My condenser has rigid copper lines, we did a home made AC system, the early one had the condenser on top of the cab, my 2-105 doesn't have that bulk head in front of the dash like your 2-135 it has one in front of the tank

 

[rrlund]

This is a Series 3 with the modular cab. Makes is a lot easier to take the engine out.